Request: A concise answer to how to connect Pro Power to a generator inlet

[intensifi]

Isn't PG&E that company that went bankrupt because they were found liable for causing the California wildfires?

Other than that it seems like a good idea, but I can't see that it has UL approval from their brochure. They say it follows various UL standards and their own testing, but that is not the same. If they set a bunch more houses on fire they will just declare bankruptcy again. I would have a long talk with my insurance company, if homeowner's insurance still exists in California.

I would certainly not install it without approval from my electric company. It might be the next big thing and it does sound good but I have been around long enough to see many good ideas bite people in the rear over time.

Looks like this is the company that makes the devices PG&E is installing:

https://www.tescometering.com/

Please give them a call and advise us on the UL certification of the device.

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[Newton]

How did you get that info? I wonder if LADWP will allow this installation down here? Who actually installs the collar?

Definitely the utility company or their approved contractors..

What I do not understand about the collar is how it solves the neutral bonding issue. Some generators have a neutral bond and some don't, which is why my state requires a sticker to tell you which type you can use. There are important safety considerations to both types of installation, if you install a subpanel and bond neutral to ground it will fail inspection. Why is it OK to do it at the meter? Vice/versa, if you install a main panel and fail to bond neutral to ground it will *really* fail inspection. So how does this all work?

 

[Newton]

Looks like this is the company that makes the devices PG&E is installing:

https://www.tescometering.com/

Please give them a call and advise us on the UL certification of the device.

You can look it up here if you know the model number. I'm just going off of the PG&E site which doesn't have a lot of information. Convincing *me* isn't the issue, convincing your insurance company is. There is lots of stuff that will pass code in one state but not another, my guess is that you will have a fight on your hands unless your utility company uses this device. I'm not saying that it is a bad device, just that you might be an early adopter with all of the risks associated there. i have very little respect for PG&E at this point (and used to be a customer.)

Generac (a respected company) used to make a product kind of like this but they pulled it for some reason.

 

[Amps]

What I do not understand about the collar is how it solves the neutral bonding issue.

This type of collar allows un-metered power input and isolates the grid. It's between the metered grid and your power source.

You are coming in on the supply side of the service panel. Your generator/battery becomes the service.

 

[Maquis]

Looks like this is the company that makes the devices PG&E is installing:

https://www.tescometering.com/

Please give them a call and advise us on the UL certification of the device.

Equipment used by utilities is generally not UL listed unless it is also used in other applications. Just like utilities don’t follow the NEC.

 

[Grumpy2]

When utility power returns, the collar switches back to utility mode. The generator is disconnected automatically.

Exactly the time I am concerned with. There are no fuses or breakers upstream of that meter except upstream of the transformer. So if some of those "automatic" circuits inside that sealed metal can fail, the Truck could receive much more amperage/voltage than it would like to see.

California PGE doesn't inspire me that they always follow the safest path...

 

[Newton]

I'm pretty sure this would not be considered utility company equipment, but maybe it is a grey area if the utility supplies it. The meter socket that the meter mounts onto is definitely covered by NEC and should be UL listed.

I understand that this is between the grid and your house, it is basically an automatic transfer switch like you will see on large yachts and motorhomes. In the marine world neutral will be unbonded when connecting to the shore and bonded for the ship's generator or inverter, but houses don't usually have that ability. Also in the marine world shore power (USA) will always be bonded, but on land generators may be either bonded or unbonded. That is my confusion with how this works, with the lightning it seems that you will have neutral bonded at both the panel and the truck, which might be a long distance away from the panel. This does not seem good.

The short recommendation for me (poor OP!) is that if your utility company supplies the equipment and certifies that it works with the Lightning or at least "separately derived equipment" then you have done all your due diligence. Get it in writing. If the equipment fails, it is on the utility company to replace it. However if that utility company is PG&E and you have the cash, hire an engineer and put in a powerwall with solar panels.

 

[Bigisland Guy]

How did you get that info? I wonder if LADWP will allow this installation down here? Who actually installs the collar?

Not sure about LADWP, but Southern Cal Edison will allow the collar if you have a medical device, you may want to check. SCE considers CPAPS as a medical device so the threshold on devices is lower than you might think.

 

[intensifi]

I'm pretty sure this would not be considered utility company equipment, but maybe it is a grey area if the utility supplies it. The meter socket that the meter mounts onto is definitely covered by NEC and should be UL listed.

I understand that this is between the grid and your house, it is basically an automatic transfer switch like you will see on large yachts and motorhomes. In the marine world neutral will be unbonded when connecting to the shore and bonded for the ship's generator or inverter, but houses don't usually have that ability. Also in the marine world shore power (USA) will always be bonded, but on land generators may be either bonded or unbonded. That is my confusion with how this works, with the lightning it seems that you will have neutral bonded at both the panel and the truck, which might be a long distance away from the panel. This does not seem good.

The short recommendation for me (poor OP!) is that if your utility company supplies the equipment and certifies that it works with the Lightning or at least "separately derived equipment" then you have done all your due diligence. Get it in writing. If the equipment fails, it is on the utility company to replace it. However if that utility company is PG&E and you have the cash, hire an engineer and put in a powerwall with solar panels.

Thanks for the marine info! I learned something!

Based on commentary here, I did a terrible thing! I read the manual supplied by PG&E. Pages of interest excerpted below.

Note: As a veteran of many legal encounters, I recommend downloading the manual and printing it out for the truly paranoid. Maybe even put a copy in the safe deposit box! These words are an “express warranty” by the utility provider.

Lastly, in 2024 and beyond - Solar shingles (Certainteed) are the way to go for a residential roof. Solar panels should be reserved for free standing mounts, gazebos, pergolas, carport/patio covers, etc. As to batteries, I would suggest a single solar charged battery. The EV trucks with their massive batteries and 240V 30A outlets should be your go to battery for extended outages. When you price that much battery against conventIonal solar charged batteries, the Lightning is a bargain even at MSRP (and it‘s a truck also). Open Bi-Directional EVSEs and trucks are sadly still a future item. There is an ISO standard but @Ford Motor Company, GM and Tesla are currently - and sadly - pushing proprietary devices or “suggesting” that you redo your solar plant to accommodate their bi-directional devices.

 

[Formerly]

Backup power transfer meter manual:
https://www.pge.com/assets/pge/docs...er-transfer-meter-manual.pdf.coredownload.pdf

Max 30Amps or 7.2kW load (matches the pro power bed outlet 240Vac available) so one would need to drop excessive loads like hard start air conditioning, etc.
I would think solar systems would need to be dropped as well as the truck may not be able to take in power if fully charged.

Great way to go by saving much higher costs of a separate panel and wiring. Especially if PG&E will provide and install for free!

Get a micro air easy start for your AC's, and they can run

 

[Maquis]

I'm pretty sure this would not be considered utility company equipment, but maybe it is a grey area if the utility supplies it. The meter socket that the meter mounts onto is definitely covered by NEC and should be UL listed.

I understand that this is between the grid and your house, it is basically an automatic transfer switch like you will see on large yachts and motorhomes. In the marine world neutral will be unbonded when connecting to the shore and bonded for the ship's generator or inverter, but houses don't usually have that ability. Also in the marine world shore power (USA) will always be bonded, but on land generators may be either bonded or unbonded. That is my confusion with how this works, with the lightning it seems that you will have neutral bonded at both the panel and the truck, which might be a long distance away from the panel. This does not seem good.

The short recommendation for me (poor OP!) is that if your utility company supplies the equipment and certifies that it works with the Lightning or at least "separately derived equipment" then you have done all your due diligence. Get it in writing. If the equipment fails, it is on the utility company to replace it. However if that utility company is PG&E and you have the cash, hire an engineer and put in a powerwall with solar panels.

Right…meter bases are listed, meters are not. Since this thing fits in between, who knows?

 

[Henry Ford]

That is my confusion with how this works, with the lightning it seems that you will have neutral bonded at both the panel and the truck, which might be a long distance away from the panel. This does not seem good.

Based on my experience with the GFCI system in the Lightning it WILL NOT tolerate neutral touching ground ANYWHERE except the frame of the truck. Caps for emphasis because it is a rule with no exceptions.

If people are reporting the collar works with Lightning its because the ground is not connected to main panel.

I'm not an expert and you should assume I'm wrong or at least that I don't know what I'm talking about.

 

[Maquis]

Based on my experience with the GFCI system in the Lightning it WILL NOT tolerate neutral touching ground ANYWHERE except the frame of the truck. Caps for emphasis because it is a rule with no exceptions.

If people are reporting the collar works with Lightning its because the ground is not connected to main panel.

I'm not an expert and you should assume I'm wrong or at least that I don't know what I'm talking about.

Or there are some shenanigans going on in the collar that open the EGC from the truck..

 

[Henry Ford]

Or there are some shenanigans going on in the collar that open the EGC from the truck..

Actually, the utility doesn't deliver ground to the house at all, correct? Just two hot wires. Presumably the meter box is grounded to the panel... thinking while typing, while sitting in a hot tub drinking an IPA.

Definitely don't listen to me!

 

[Marcelo Zanetti]

They are only an option if your utility has approved them.

I was just going to say that.

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