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jefft

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I purchased a 2" lift for front from Rough Country. I own a 2023 platinum. What is the largest size tire I can install?
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BennyTheBeaver

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I'm also curious as to the answer to this question. Can anyone that has a 2" lift and increased their tire size assist?
 

21st Century Truck

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I've seen YouTubes of people chopping out the rear SORB tusks in the front wheel wells to fit larger tires. Not something I'd choose to do... those SORB tusks are there for good safety reasons.
 

MarkTJ97

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I just installed a RC 2" leveling kit, and put 275/65r20 Toyo AT III EV tires on factory 20" wheels. I would say that is about as big as you can go with 2" lift, very little room at front of fender, but no rubbing. Tire spec says its a 34.1" tire. I can go grab a picture here in a bit. Bottom line - it fits but barely. Looks great though!
 

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I've seen YouTubes of people chopping out the rear SORB tusks in the front wheel wells to fit larger tires. Not something I'd choose to do... those SORB tusks are there for good safety reasons.
Agreed, although I have also heard you can loosen the bolts and move them a little for a touch more space, I might have heard switching them front to back makes more room, or also you can get a body jack and press them out a little.

This won't make a lot of room, but maybe just enough if there is just some touching.
 

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BennyTheBeaver

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I just installed a RC 2" leveling kit, and put 275/65r20 Toyo AT III EV tires on factory 20" wheels. I would say that is about as big as you can go with 2" lift, very little room at front of fender, but no rubbing. Tire spec says its a 34.1" tire. I can go grab a picture here in a bit. Bottom line - it fits but barely. Looks great though!
Did you go for the 116H or 126S rating? Was there a reason you chose one over the other?
 

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Went 116, as that was all they had at the time, and I prefer it for a better ride. Once you get into higher ratings like E, ride will be affected. I don't drive trails anymore, so it is overkill for me. Ride is great, minimal increase in tread noise. Just did a 1600 mile road trip, no complaints.
 

MarkTJ97

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Here are some pics of the 275/65 with a 2" lift, and the wheel well clearance. I think this is about as big as you would want to go, yet still fill the fenders. Others may have gotten away with larger, but happy with my setup. Feels more like a truck for sure. Average about 1.9 to 2.1 miles/kwh. Tires are super light at 43 lbs each, so that helps.
Ford F-150 Lightning tire size 25 lightning
Ford F-150 Lightning tire size tir
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Here are some pics of the 275/65 with a 2" lift, and the wheel well clearance. I think this is about as big as you would want to go, yet still fill the fenders. Others may have gotten away with larger, but happy with my setup. Feels more like a truck for sure. Average about 1.9 to 2.1 miles/kwh. Tires are super light at 43 lbs each, so that helps.
25 lightning.webp
tire.webp
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This is the exact setup I was looking to do, nice to see someone has already done it with success. Great looking setup. What lift did you go with and why?
 

BennyTheBeaver

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Here are some pics of the 275/65 with a 2" lift, and the wheel well clearance. I think this is about as big as you would want to go, yet still fill the fenders. Others may have gotten away with larger, but happy with my setup. Feels more like a truck for sure. Average about 1.9 to 2.1 miles/kwh. Tires are super light at 43 lbs each, so that helps.
25 lightning.webp
tire.webp
.
Thank you!
 

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jefft

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With the 2" rough country lift, I put 33x12.50R22LT on and no rub problem, look great, and are not much noise difference than tires my 23 platinum came with.
 

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This is the exact setup I was looking to do, nice to see someone has already done it with success. Great looking setup. What lift did you go with and why?
I went with the Rough Country 2" level, $50. Easy to install yourself once you figure a few things out. No need to disconnect everything RC says to in the instructions. Let me know if you want my "lessons learned". Have done it on 2 Lightnings now, both the hard way and easy way haha.
 

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I went with the Rough Country 2" level, $50. Easy to install yourself once you figure a few things out. No need to disconnect everything RC says to in the instructions. Let me know if you want my "lessons learned". Have done it on 2 Lightnings now, both the hard way and easy way haha.
Color me interested, what's the easy way?

Just waiting on Pirelli to release the XTM in 295/70r18 and then it will be getting the RC lift.
 

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Color me interested, what's the easy way?

Just waiting on Pirelli to release the XTM in 295/70r18 and then it will be getting the RC lift.
Here is my take on the RC 2" leveling kit install from recent memory. No implied warranty or guarantee of success, just a redneck's opinion from experience doing this on 2 Lightnings.

1. Loosen lug nuts on ground.
2. Jack at arrows cut out in frame, place jack stand anywhere but on battery pack or skids. Not much room.
3. Remove tire/wheel (one side at a time).
4. Remove brake line brackets from lower control arm, and frame to allow for droop. Pull hard line from frame mounted plastic clips for even more freedom. No need to disconnect brake line fluid fittings, just mounting brackets.
5. Remove ABS wire from clips. Check often to ensure it is not "banjo'd" and you have plenty of slack.
6. Disconnect tie rod, leave 2-3 threads engaged and hit knuckle with hammer until tie rod end releases, leave nut on for now to keep it from flopping around later.
6. Disconnect Sway Bar, use impact if you have it, will want to spin. Remove nut and punch stud out.
7. Leave brake caliper on, brake line connected, and you do not need to remove axle nut either as RC instructions state.
8. Loosen Upper Control Arm Ball Joint nut, leaving 2-3 threads engaged. Hit knuckle with hammer until it pops free.
9. Remove Upper Control Arm Ball Joint nut, and tie rod nut. Maintain positive control of knuckle at this point so it doesn't flop down.
10. Lift upper control arm clear of knuckle. It is loaded and will want to go up on its own. Gently lay knuckle back towards rear of truck to make room to work.
11. Loosen and remove (3) 18mm nuts on top of strut, ratcheting wrench is the way here.
12. Remove (2) lower shock strut nuts.
13. Push strut upwards so that lower strut studs clear Lower Control Arm, push down on Lower Control Arm, and remove strut assembly. Make sure brake lines and ABS wire don't get stretched too much.
14. Take strut to vice, thread nuts back on flush with end of stud. Spray with penetrating fluid, let sit. Come back and hammer out studs from strut.
15. Install RC spacers per instructions, pay attention to which washers go where (lock washers vs. flat washers), and ensure "B side" of spacer is facing out. Torque as directed.
16. Slide assembled strut back into place, top first, and attach upper nuts (17mm now) loosely. Bar code sticker on strut is now facing out, I removed it, but it's a good indication you have correct orientation.
17. Get lower strut aligned in lower control arm recess, insert studs, and hammer home. May require jacking up lower control arm to get holes aligned.
18. Install lower strut nuts.
19. Now the fun part...lift knuckle back up to centered, and get your pry bar ready. Use pry bar to leverage against strut tower bucket and force Upper Control Arm down enough to get a nut thread started. This will seem impossible at first, but it will go. Don't slip off and crack a tooth, I had some close calls, you got this. Control arm will almost be touching spring, but will clear. If not, check spacer orientation.
20. At this point, it becomes reverse of teardown. Reinstall, tighten and torque everything per instructions. Brake line brackets, ABS wire clips, tie rod nut, upper control arm ball joint nut, upper/lower strut nuts, sway bar nut and lug nuts should all be torqued to spec and secure.
21. Rinse and repeat on other side.

Take your time, first side is a learning experience, second side will go twice as fast. Hope this rambling list helps someone out there. The end result is worth it, don't give up or pay someone, you got this!
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