Am I blind, or are there no lower front bed tie-downs?

[Zaptor]

Make sur you look at the diagram here - https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...l-towing-with-the-lightning.10262/post-209639

Well, crap. Thank you very much for the link, that possibly just saved me an expensive mistake. Looks like I will try out the 'bed extender' mentioned above to avoid letting electrons out of the NO DRILL zones with my misguided efforts. Maybe that's why they are higher from the factory. Appreciate the info, sir.

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[ivan256]

Keep a chunk of 6x6 PT in the compartment under the back seat and put it between the strap and your plywood when you use the tie downs. I do this regardless of whether I have enough sheet stock to extend above the tie downs because I would rather have the downforce in the middle of the sheets than damage the edges.

A chunk of sturdy timber comes in handy for other things and is good to have in your kit anyway.

The fancy solutions are fancy, but imo not necessary

 

[cal]

Hey I think I recognize these poly panels. Greenhouse? I had to replace our old clear ones on our green house with smoked after the cedar started to burn. Magnified by my clear panes. I had to go with the 12'ers Real pain to work with by yourself.

Here's our green house 16'x24'. Rented a boom to get to the upper level. It was fun and the first tow with our Lightning. These are the original clear panels.

The burning is on the cross beams left to right. Got so bad that we had to cover the clear ones with smoke panels.

 

[Bwanapete]

I agree with Ivan. Or just buy lots more plywood.

 

[Zaptor]

Hey I think I recognize these poly panels. Greenhouse? I had to replace our old clear ones on our green house with smoked after the cedar started to burn. Magnified by my clear panes. I had to go with the 12'ers Real pain to work with by yourself.

Close! Building for my sawmill, 30x10. Building frame is steel, as is the mill, but I will remember the magnifying effect when I have beams on the track! Thanks and BTW that looks amazing, nice work!~

 

[cal]

Only seems to be a problem with cedar.

Sawmill.... and were are you located?

Fortunately we are done with building projects. Next I'm gonna learn me how use my dump trailer to tailgate gravel on an access road around our property. The guys on Youtube sure make it look easy!

 

[Zaptor]

Next I'm gonna learn me how use my dump trailer to tailgate gravel on an access road around our property. The guys on Youtube sure make it look easy!

It is, relatively, assuming your dump trailer has the two-way rear doors that you can chain partially closed in 'flap' mode (rather than double barn door mode). Works best if you can have a friend work the dump function and holler when it starts to slide so you can start pulling forward rather than run up to the cab and get moving once it does break loose. Good luck!

 

[hb.sagen]

I had this problem yesterday (again), bought one sheet of plywood and a few 2x2". I need something in the front to tie down stuff. I have the Ford Roll cover (retrax), So both the box-link and the other tie down is hidden behind that roll box in front.

Anyone found a good solution for tie downs?

 

[Zaptor]

I had this problem yesterday (again), bought one sheet of plywood and a few 2x2". I need something in the front to tie down stuff. I have the Ford Roll cover (retrax), So both the box-link and the other tie down is hidden behind that roll box in front.

Anyone found a good solution for tie downs?

Interesting that this thread popped up again when I (thread starter, truck stuff do-er) had to pick up a load of Port Orford cedar an hour and a half away from home yesterday. Best solution I have found without adding or drilling anything is to go from front tie down to rear tie down and make an X rather than try to go straight across (as seen here in the bed camera view). This brings the middle of the tiedown down to the average of the height of the front and rear tiedowns, and seems to help considerably with controlling the load. I made it home, including up a very twisty mountain road, without the load shifting. YMMV, still a design flaw IMO
-Zap

 

[hb.sagen]

I should have known that an American car never transport a little of anything. Maximize, always

 

[Zaptor]

I should have known that an American car never transport a little of anything. Maximize, always

Cannot build *sauna* without a lot of cedar (and this is just the floor and ceiling)
-Zap

 

[Firn]

I'm not usually a fan of "glue" for something like a tied down, but there is some stuff out there that will peal the aluminum out of the bed instead of releasing.

Could put some L-Track down up there. I'm looking at setting some up for inside the bedrails and have considered doing some in the bed floor.

Like this
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/l-tracks-for-3rd-gen-bed.759997/#post-27094605

 

[bc1]

Few other ideas. Carry a hand saw or borrow one at the yard. Buy an extra 2x4 and cut it to go across on top of the plywood. Cut two short pieces to wedge up under the bed rail on each side. Nail or screw them down to your 2 by cross piece or forget the cross piece and screw your wedges into your plywood. Throw your spare tire on the front of the plywood and tie it down. Have the wife sit on it back there. Buy a bag of sand or gravel for a few bux to throw on the front to tie it down.

For 2 or 3 overhead braces over the length of the bed, cut a 2x4 to run from inside to inside the width of the bed and cut two short 2x4s with one on each end to hold it up tight against the bottom of the bed rails. Screw them together. Add a spacer and screw down another 2x4 across the top extending over the bed rails if you want.

For and adjustable plywood hold down, cut two short pieces of 4x4 to go up under the bed rails at the front. Cut a 2x4 on edge to go across. Drill holes up the 4x4s for different adjustments.

And if you want to avoid the above crud then don't forget to carry a couple 24" hand clamps. They come in handy for lots of things. The ones that have the reversible ends, then all you have to do is clamp one end under the bed rail and the other end against the plywood or 2x4 cross member.

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