anyone’s charge port door getting stuck?(UPDATE FIX)

[flypony53]

The problem with the "Sweet spot" is that is silly to have to "know" where it is. It reminds me a LOT of Tesla Model S early models that required you to know where the "sweet spot" was to close the frunk - if you were off by a few inches, you'd permanently damage(as in dent)the aluminum hood.

This is a piece of plastic, which I fear will crack - on the other hand, it's just a piece of plastic, how expensive can it be to replace when it does fail?

This has been my issue on the sweet spot...I have found I can only close it with my right hand, if I push with the left in the exact same spot, it does not latch.

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[AZT9]

Just got the truck back. As another poster had mentioned. If you Door Fails. The entire assembly needs to be replaced! Dunno what the out of pocket cost is just yet but I’m sure a paint matched piece of plastic from ford ain’t cheap!
Thanks all for
Your comments??

 

[Jseis]

Our Mach E door failed at about 37,000 miles. The latching mechanism failed and a part fell down into the battery tray. We made Ford repair it as it was a design flaw and the S.O. made sure they knew I drove it around town with the door taped shut with bright blue painters tape. They initially refused but gave up & sent us a $300 debit card.

 

[AZT9]

Our Mach E door failed at about 37,000 miles. The latching mechanism failed and a part fell down into the battery tray. We made Ford repair it as it was a design flaw and the S.O. made sure they knew I drove it around town with the door taped shut with bright blue painters tape. They initially refused but gave up & sent us a $300 debit card.

Way to hold
Out! They need to replace things that are obviously a design flaw regardless of warranty. From reading posts about various issues, it appears that it comes down to if the dealership wants to play nice. My 2 cents.

 

[Adventureboy]

The problem with the "Sweet spot" is that is silly to have to "know" where it is. It reminds me a LOT of Tesla Model S early models that required you to know where the "sweet spot" was to close the frunk - if you were off by a few inches, you'd permanently damage(as in dent)the aluminum hood.

This is a piece of plastic, which I fear will crack - on the other hand, it's just a piece of plastic, how expensive can it be to replace when it does fail?

Hah, It is a piece of plastic, but have you seen the price of the weather kit, a simple piece of black plastic.)
https://accessories.ford.com/products/f-150-2023-charge-port-weather-kit-for-bev-lightning-only

No problem with the door once I found the sweet spot but occasional winter weather fun when charging during sub-freezing temps. I've had to un-freeze it a couple of times to get it to close.

 

[PittsburghLightning]

Hah, It is a piece of plastic, but have you seen the price of the weather kit, a simple piece of black plastic.)
https://accessories.ford.com/products/f-150-2023-charge-port-weather-kit-for-bev-lightning-only

WTAF is that thing?!? Can you imagine the engineering / sales meeting where that was proposed and then approved for manufacturing and sales?

 

[AZT9]

Hah, It is a piece of plastic, but have you seen the price of the weather kit, a simple piece of black plastic.)
https://accessories.ford.com/products/f-150-2023-charge-port-weather-kit-for-bev-lightning-only

No problem with the door once I found the sweet spot but occasional winter weather fun when charging during sub-freezing temps. I've had to un-freeze it a couple of times to get it to close.

Do t need that as I Live with. AZ. That being said. Why would I pay that much for a Door Jacket when my
Own jacket doesn’t cost that much?? Lol

 

[Adventureboy]

WTAF is that thing?!? Can you imagine the engineering / sales meeting where that was proposed and then approved for manufacturing and sales?

No kidding. And who decided that price? Don't imagine they sell many of those.

 

[Bwanapete]

Having to buy a weatherizing kit is B***S***. Sure , buy a kit to get around a design flaw. I don’t care if VW uses the same port latch, on ICE cars no less. America can do better than this.

 

[othellobloke]

I just had this issue. I thought it was frozen. It definitely wasn’t. It’s a complete failure of the catch mechanism design.
It’s an amazing truck but this really is dumb as fv*k for design. It’s essentially a plastic catch that turns inside when you push into it. Once I got my port door open I was able to get the mechanism out with pliers by turning it quarter turn left and wiggling it. I would’ve preferred a simple key lock to open it. Ford - you done fv*ked up here with this latch design @Ford Motor Company

Here’s how I got mine open in an emergency. I created a photo in the hopes it helps somebody else.

1. Purely by chance the face plate came off when I was trying to wiggle the mechanism. It’s designed to slide back on from right to left - So pry yours off by gently putting a flathead/butter knife in the top.
2. Use needle nose pliers to turn the latch mechanism from pointing up and down so it was pointing left to right so the latch mimics the shape of the hole.
3. Used the needle nose pliers to simply pull the door open now the catch wasn’t holding it closed.

 

[Thndrdwg]

Graphite seems to be a great lubricant for latches and locks. Very weather tolerant in moist cold climates and doesn't dry out like silicon lubes.

 

[hb.sagen]

I recently installed the lock and pin on my dummy door. The lock is removed and installed by rotating it. The pin is a torx 50 and is rotated 90 degrees.

 

[AZT9]

I just had this issue. I thought it was frozen. It definitely wasn’t. It’s a complete failure of the catch mechanism design.
It’s an amazing truck but this really is dumb as fv*k for design. It’s essentially a plastic catch that turns inside when you push into it. Once I got my port door open I was able to get the mechanism out with pliers by turning it quarter turn left and wiggling it. I would’ve preferred a simple key lock to open it. Ford - you done fv*ked up here with this latch design @Ford Motor Company

Here’s how I got mine open in an emergency. I created a photo in the hopes it helps somebody else.

1. Purely by chance the face plate came off when I was trying to wiggle the mechanism. It’s designed to slide back on from right to left - So pry yours off by gently putting a flathead/butter knife in the top.
2. Use needle nose pliers to turn the latch mechanism from pointing up and down so it was pointing left to right so the latch mimics the shape of the hole.
3. Used the needle nose pliers to simply pull the door open now the catch wasn’t holding it closed.

Bummer the issue strikes again! Fortunately mine didn’t get to that point before replacing it. Thanks for the “how to” if/when it happens again

 

[digitaldad]

I recently installed the lock and pin on my dummy door.

Always wondered this on your ride, was the hinged door already there when you took posession, or you added?

I wish I could get the right-side/passenger charge port part number to retrofit that look on your pic (to my passenger side). Would be awesome to fab a battery maintainer/FDRS connection point.

I have the dummy F150 plate there already (Ford deleted this on 24 & 25 years), I just cant tell if the fender is molded for the whole charge port assembly or just the blank cover.

 

[hb.sagen]

Always wondered this on your ride, was the hinged door already there when you took posession, or you added?

I wish I could get the right-side/passenger charge port part number to retrofit that look on your pic (to my passenger side). Would be awesome to fab a battery maintainer/FDRS connection point.

I have the dummy F150 plate there already (Ford deleted this on 24 & 25 years), I just cant tell if the fender is molded for the whole charge port assembly or just the blank cover.

The right side door was just zip-tied shut. The opening on the left side, where my charger is now, is identical to the right side, just mirrored. The whole assembly pops out, just 4 tabs. I have a photo of the part number.

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