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Jesse-Infotainment
Well-known member
You can use any of the ICE mirrors form 21 up.
THe only difference is 24 the cameras changed. If you have 360 cams just swap your cams out with the ones from your factory mirrors.
The Mirror caps are all the same from 21 up. I had installed painted caps prior to getting the power fold installed.
Mirror cap part numbers
ML3Z17D743DAPTM
ML3Z17D742DAPTM
THe only difference is 24 the cameras changed. If you have 360 cams just swap your cams out with the ones from your factory mirrors.
The Mirror caps are all the same from 21 up. I had installed painted caps prior to getting the power fold installed.
Mirror cap part numbers
ML3Z17D743DAPTM
ML3Z17D742DAPTM
shaikhriz
Member
lSherlockl: where are you in wisconsin. i am in gurnee Il, if you are close by and can help upgrading my 2024 flash with folding mirrors automation. much appreciated.
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Jesse-Infotainment
Well-known member
What is the DTC you have?
21st Century Truck
Well-known member
Folks,
I installed a new (used) powerfolding mirror on my XLT Lightning's right door (only the right door for now). Everything works on it, correctly,EXCEPT powerfolding / autofolding.
I also have the appropriate door mirror control switch and the BoostedGoose wires installed.
I wrote the appropriate FORScan settings, on the script side of FORScan (not the hexadecimal side). On the APIM, my new autofold toggle switch is ON.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Is there a possibility that the function will not work with only one mirror installed?
EDIT: I found my FORScan-related operator error. Things now work perfectly. (sigh... oh that darn operator!)
I installed a new (used) powerfolding mirror on my XLT Lightning's right door (only the right door for now). Everything works on it, correctly,
I also have the appropriate door mirror control switch and the BoostedGoose wires installed.
I wrote the appropriate FORScan settings, on the script side of FORScan (not the hexadecimal side). On the APIM, my new autofold toggle switch is ON.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Is there a possibility that the function will not work with only one mirror installed?
EDIT: I found my FORScan-related operator error. Things now work perfectly. (sigh... oh that darn operator!)
Last edited:
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21st Century Truck
Well-known member
I want to revive this thread to add a wrinkle for those who buy power folding mirrors and add it to an XLT, as I did.
Some (maybe most?) of the higher-trim power folding mirrors will also have an auto dimming, "electrochromic" feature on the driver's power mirror glass. The mirror glass with the stippled 1/4 inch edge all around its perimeter has this auto-dimming feature.
The driver's side power folding rmirror I bought on EBay has it. Thanks to key information from members Jesse - Infotainment and BMWHITETX I just added the missing two circuit wires to my XLT's driver's door to turn this feature on.
Items needed:
- Motorcraft female pigtail kit with Ford service number DU2Z-14474-CA. You'll use two of the five female pigtails in this kit for the mirror connector end of the new added circuit wires, in connector holes 2 and 6.
- Motorcraft male pigtail kit with Ford service number EU2Z-14421-BA. You'll use two of the five male pigtails in this kit for the door hinge upper connector (the upper connector of the two in the door hinge connector assembly), in connector holes 5 and 6.
- About three feet each of 22-gage stranded wire, two wires. They can be from the same spool as long as You keep track of which wire goes to which new pin on either end of the new circuit. The Ford OEM wires for this circuit are color-coded BU/GY and BN but of course this doesn't matter except to verify that these wires are indeed missing on our XLT doors.
TO DO:
- take off the door inside trim panel + the mirror sail panel. Also take out the door speaker as the speaker cavity will give working access to the hinge end of the door wiring loom.
- take off the 10mm door hinge motion limiter from the vehicle side. This will give another very needed inch or so of space to access the hinge connector assembly.
- THIS IS THE VERY EASY PART: Open the mirror-end door connector by partly lifting out the red pin holder. Add the two pins in holes 2 and 6. Close the pin holder into the connector.
- THIS IS THE MAJOR PITA PART WHICH WILL MAKE YOU SEE RED AND TAKE 50% OR MORE OF THE TOTAL TIME: take off the rubber boot in the door hinge by GENTLY unhooking its four rubber "huggy arms" (two on each side) from around the white plastic connector frame, then take out the large plastic white connector frame which has four (4) detents, at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock, from its body cavity. The connector frame will then slide out partway into the hinge space... the XLTs have two connectors here, with a space for a 3d connector absent on the XLT. Here's the deal: after an hour+ of trying to do this I gave up and went to the nearby friendly Ford dealership service department where my service advisor called up a shop tech for advice. BLUF: to unpin these door hinge connector assemblies, the shop techs prefer to use a jig to take the door completely off and hold it, then they deal with the wiring connectors, then reassemble the door back onto the truck. NO WAY was I going to do that on my driveway with these heavy doors and no jig he hee...
The shop tech advised there is a less manpower-intensive but more difficult way by careful one-man manipulation with trim tools, and he was nice enough to grab some tools and open that hinge connector assembly for me, free of charge. He mentioned that to do this takes some good experience with the newest generation of F150s. This indeed took him about 15 minutes, and he had done this multiple times before. He left the connector assembly unpinned and with wire tie-offs so that the body-side two connectors didn't disappear into the body cavity.
PITA, CONTINUED: the upper hinge connector has to be separated from the white connector frame, its pin holder taken partly out and the new male pins inserted into holes at positions 5 and 6. This I found is best done by pulling the unpinned connector frame and its rubber wire tunnel through the door into the door cavity, and then out thru the speaker cavity. Again, this part is fun fun fun.
Once the pins are in their holes in the upper hinge connector, the final action is to run the two new wires from the large rubber hinge tunnel thru the door cavity, thru the other large rubber gasket below the speaker, and along the main door wiring loom up to the mirror connector's two new pigtails. Here, the speaker cavity is again Your friend.
EDIT: the two new lines will connect Pin 2 at mirror end to Pin 5 at hinge end, and Pin 6 at mirror end to pin 6 at hinge end.
I verified that our XLTs (my XLT anyway) indeed do have this electrochromic circuit in the main truck body wiring loom. All that's missing are the two wires in the door wiring harness, from the mirror connector to the hinge connector. Once the door harness gets these two new wires, the center mirror in the cab will send a signal to the driver's mirror to dim when it dims.
I hope this is helpful info for those of us with the new power-folding mirrors on our XLTs.
Some (maybe most?) of the higher-trim power folding mirrors will also have an auto dimming, "electrochromic" feature on the driver's power mirror glass. The mirror glass with the stippled 1/4 inch edge all around its perimeter has this auto-dimming feature.
The driver's side power folding rmirror I bought on EBay has it. Thanks to key information from members Jesse - Infotainment and BMWHITETX I just added the missing two circuit wires to my XLT's driver's door to turn this feature on.
Items needed:
- Motorcraft female pigtail kit with Ford service number DU2Z-14474-CA. You'll use two of the five female pigtails in this kit for the mirror connector end of the new added circuit wires, in connector holes 2 and 6.
- Motorcraft male pigtail kit with Ford service number EU2Z-14421-BA. You'll use two of the five male pigtails in this kit for the door hinge upper connector (the upper connector of the two in the door hinge connector assembly), in connector holes 5 and 6.
- About three feet each of 22-gage stranded wire, two wires. They can be from the same spool as long as You keep track of which wire goes to which new pin on either end of the new circuit. The Ford OEM wires for this circuit are color-coded BU/GY and BN but of course this doesn't matter except to verify that these wires are indeed missing on our XLT doors.
TO DO:
- take off the door inside trim panel + the mirror sail panel. Also take out the door speaker as the speaker cavity will give working access to the hinge end of the door wiring loom.
- take off the 10mm door hinge motion limiter from the vehicle side. This will give another very needed inch or so of space to access the hinge connector assembly.
- THIS IS THE VERY EASY PART: Open the mirror-end door connector by partly lifting out the red pin holder. Add the two pins in holes 2 and 6. Close the pin holder into the connector.
- THIS IS THE MAJOR PITA PART WHICH WILL MAKE YOU SEE RED AND TAKE 50% OR MORE OF THE TOTAL TIME: take off the rubber boot in the door hinge by GENTLY unhooking its four rubber "huggy arms" (two on each side) from around the white plastic connector frame, then take out the large plastic white connector frame which has four (4) detents, at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock, from its body cavity. The connector frame will then slide out partway into the hinge space... the XLTs have two connectors here, with a space for a 3d connector absent on the XLT. Here's the deal: after an hour+ of trying to do this I gave up and went to the nearby friendly Ford dealership service department where my service advisor called up a shop tech for advice. BLUF: to unpin these door hinge connector assemblies, the shop techs prefer to use a jig to take the door completely off and hold it, then they deal with the wiring connectors, then reassemble the door back onto the truck. NO WAY was I going to do that on my driveway with these heavy doors and no jig he hee...
The shop tech advised there is a less manpower-intensive but more difficult way by careful one-man manipulation with trim tools, and he was nice enough to grab some tools and open that hinge connector assembly for me, free of charge. He mentioned that to do this takes some good experience with the newest generation of F150s. This indeed took him about 15 minutes, and he had done this multiple times before. He left the connector assembly unpinned and with wire tie-offs so that the body-side two connectors didn't disappear into the body cavity.
PITA, CONTINUED: the upper hinge connector has to be separated from the white connector frame, its pin holder taken partly out and the new male pins inserted into holes at positions 5 and 6. This I found is best done by pulling the unpinned connector frame and its rubber wire tunnel through the door into the door cavity, and then out thru the speaker cavity. Again, this part is fun fun fun.
Once the pins are in their holes in the upper hinge connector, the final action is to run the two new wires from the large rubber hinge tunnel thru the door cavity, thru the other large rubber gasket below the speaker, and along the main door wiring loom up to the mirror connector's two new pigtails. Here, the speaker cavity is again Your friend.
EDIT: the two new lines will connect Pin 2 at mirror end to Pin 5 at hinge end, and Pin 6 at mirror end to pin 6 at hinge end.
I verified that our XLTs (my XLT anyway) indeed do have this electrochromic circuit in the main truck body wiring loom. All that's missing are the two wires in the door wiring harness, from the mirror connector to the hinge connector. Once the door harness gets these two new wires, the center mirror in the cab will send a signal to the driver's mirror to dim when it dims.
I hope this is helpful info for those of us with the new power-folding mirrors on our XLTs.
Last edited:
