Adding power mirrors to XLT

[scruvs]

Here are the 'codes' I have deciphered or found elsewhere"

Thank you. These codes are very helpful.

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[Jesse-Infotainment]

You can use any of the ICE mirrors form 21 up.

THe only difference is 24 the cameras changed. If you have 360 cams just swap your cams out with the ones from your factory mirrors.

The Mirror caps are all the same from 21 up. I had installed painted caps prior to getting the power fold installed.

Mirror cap part numbers


ML3Z17D743DAPTM

ML3Z17D742DAPTM

 

[shaikhriz]

lSherlockl: where are you in wisconsin. i am in gurnee Il, if you are close by and can help upgrading my 2024 flash with folding mirrors automation. much appreciated.

 

[shaikhriz]

Thanks @VenomVol for the info. I just turned my XLT mirrors to power fold, no more using a grab stick to fold my mirrors ??

cool. i want to do the same on my 2024 flash, can you help and guide.

 

[shaikhriz]

is it possible to just buy parts and install in existing mirror to automate the mirror to powur mirror instead of buying the whole mirror.

 

[Ahmram]

cool. i want to do the same on my 2024 flash, can you help and guide.

Sure

 

[Ahmram]

is it possible to just buy parts and install in existing mirror to automate the mirror to powur mirror instead of buying the whole mirror.

Not sure as the power fold has an extra plug. I recommend buying power mirrors and sell the manual. Less headache and money diff won't be much

 

[Froman]

You can use any of the ICE mirrors form 21 up.

THe only difference is 24 the cameras changed. If you have 360 cams just swap your cams out with the ones from your factory mirrors.

The Mirror caps are all the same from 21 up. I had installed painted caps prior to getting the power fold installed.

Mirror cap part numbers


ML3Z17D743DAPTM

ML3Z17D742DAPTM

Ur the godking on all this stuff, any idea how to fix the dtc thrown after switching mirrors? Having an active dtc isnt letting me turn on matrix headlights.

 

[Jesse-Infotainment]

Ur the godking on all this stuff, any idea how to fix the dtc thrown after switching mirrors? Having an active dtc isnt letting me turn on matrix headlights.

What is the DTC you have?

 

[21st Century Truck]

Folks,

I installed a new (used) powerfolding mirror on my XLT Lightning's right door (only the right door for now). Everything works on it, correctly, EXCEPT powerfolding / autofolding.

I also have the appropriate door mirror control switch and the BoostedGoose wires installed.

I wrote the appropriate FORScan settings, on the script side of FORScan (not the hexadecimal side). On the APIM, my new autofold toggle switch is ON.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Is there a possibility that the function will not work with only one mirror installed?

EDIT: I found my FORScan-related operator error. Things now work perfectly. (sigh... oh that darn operator!)

 

[21st Century Truck]

I want to revive this thread to add a wrinkle for those who buy power folding mirrors and add it to an XLT, as I did.

Some (maybe most?) of the higher-trim power folding mirrors will also have an auto dimming, "electrochromic" feature on the driver's power mirror glass. The mirror glass with the stippled 1/4 inch edge all around its perimeter has this auto-dimming feature.

The driver's side power folding rmirror I bought on EBay has it. Thanks to key information from members Jesse - Infotainment and BMWHITETX I just added the missing two circuit wires to my XLT's driver's door to turn this feature on.

Items needed:

- Motorcraft female pigtail kit with Ford service number DU2Z-14474-CA. You'll use two of the five female pigtails in this kit for the mirror connector end of the new added circuit wires, in connector holes 2 and 6.
- Motorcraft male pigtail kit with Ford service number EU2Z-14421-BA. You'll use two of the five male pigtails in this kit for the door hinge upper connector (the upper connector of the two in the door hinge connector assembly), in connector holes 5 and 6.
- About three feet each of 22-gage stranded wire, two wires. They can be from the same spool as long as You keep track of which wire goes to which new pin on either end of the new circuit. The Ford OEM wires for this circuit are color-coded BU/GY and BN but of course this doesn't matter except to verify that these wires are indeed missing on our XLT doors.

TO DO:
- take off the door inside trim panel + the mirror sail panel. Also take out the door speaker as the speaker cavity will give working access to the hinge end of the door wiring loom.

- take off the 10mm door hinge motion limiter from the vehicle side. This will give another very needed inch or so of space to access the hinge connector assembly.

- THIS IS THE VERY EASY PART: Open the mirror-end door connector by partly lifting out the red pin holder. Add the two pins in holes 2 and 6. Close the pin holder into the connector.

- THIS IS THE MAJOR PITA PART WHICH WILL MAKE YOU SEE RED AND TAKE 50% OR MORE OF THE TOTAL TIME: take off the rubber boot in the door hinge by GENTLY unhooking its four rubber "huggy arms" (two on each side) from around the white plastic connector frame, then take out the large plastic white connector frame which has four (4) detents, at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock, from its body cavity. The connector frame will then slide out partway into the hinge space... the XLTs have two connectors here, with a space for a 3d connector absent on the XLT. Here's the deal: after an hour+ of trying to do this I gave up and went to the nearby friendly Ford dealership service department where my service advisor called up a shop tech for advice. BLUF: to unpin these door hinge connector assemblies, the shop techs prefer to use a jig to take the door completely off and hold it, then they deal with the wiring connectors, then reassemble the door back onto the truck. NO WAY was I going to do that on my driveway with these heavy doors and no jig he hee...

The shop tech advised there is a less manpower-intensive but more difficult way by careful one-man manipulation with trim tools, and he was nice enough to grab some tools and open that hinge connector assembly for me, free of charge. He mentioned that to do this takes some good experience with the newest generation of F150s. This indeed took him about 15 minutes, and he had done this multiple times before. He left the connector assembly unpinned and with wire tie-offs so that the body-side two connectors didn't disappear into the body cavity.

PITA, CONTINUED: the upper hinge connector has to be separated from the white connector frame, its pin holder taken partly out and the new male pins inserted into holes at positions 5 and 6. This I found is best done by pulling the unpinned connector frame and its rubber wire tunnel through the door into the door cavity, and then out thru the speaker cavity. Again, this part is fun fun fun.

Once the pins are in their holes in the upper hinge connector, the final action is to run the two new wires from the large rubber hinge tunnel thru the door cavity, thru the other large rubber gasket below the speaker, and along the main door wiring loom up to the mirror connector's two new pigtails. Here, the speaker cavity is again Your friend.

EDIT: the two new lines will connect Pin 2 at mirror end to Pin 5 at hinge end, and Pin 6 at mirror end to pin 6 at hinge end.

I verified that our XLTs (my XLT anyway) indeed do have this electrochromic circuit in the main truck body wiring loom. All that's missing are the two wires in the door wiring harness, from the mirror connector to the hinge connector. Once the door harness gets these two new wires, the center mirror in the cab will send a signal to the driver's mirror to dim when it dims.

I hope this is helpful info for those of us with the new power-folding mirrors on our XLTs.

 

[Froman]

What is the DTC you have?

 

[bwood]

The forscan stuff is all quite easy and straight forward, HOWEVER, I highly recommend you read through the tutorial which has a link in this thread:
https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/2021-f-150-forscan-list-database-spreadsheet.1578/

It is easy enough to fumble around and figure things out, but bricking your truck is not the same a bricking your phone or your computer. So I would err on the side of caution, read the tutorials, back up everything every time you make a change. Just in case...

Its not easy from where I am sitting. I have a 23 f150 and the instructions are vague. For example, on the spreadsheet, what does an asterisk mean? What does a dash mean? The other characters are clearly deliniated but I have spent hours reading and re-reading and I still can't turn off the seatbelt chime on my 2023 F 150.

 

[derelict]

Its not easy from where I am sitting. I have a 23 f150 and the instructions are vague. For example, on the spreadsheet, what does an asterisk mean? What does a dash mean? The other characters are clearly deliniated but I have spent hours reading and re-reading and I still can't turn off the seatbelt chime on my 2023 F 150.

Here you go from google:
In FORScan, when modifying vehicle settings using an "as-built" data spreadsheet, the asterisk (
*) and dash (-) symbols in the code values are placeholders that signify the software will automatically calculate and input the correct values, primarily for checksums.


Meaning of the Symbols

• Asterisk (*): This acts as a wildcard in the data field. You do not need to enter a specific value here; FORScan will automatically determine and insert the necessary digits or letters.
• Dash (-) or Hyphen: Similar to the asterisk, the dash indicates a value that is automatically generated by the vehicle's system or the FORScan software itself, typically a checksum value used for verification. The software will populate this field for you.

How to Handle Them

When you are inputting codes into FORScan:

• Do not literally type asterisks or dashes into the data entry fields in the software.
• Leave these fields alone in the spreadsheet values you are referencing. FORScan will handle the necessary calculations and input the correct information into the vehicle's module automatically when you write the changes to the car.

It is strongly recommended to back up your vehicle's modules before making any modifications. The official FORScan website and various owner forums, such as those for the F-150 and Bronco, provide detailed guides and support for using the software correctly.

 

[bwood]

Here you go from google:
In FORScan, when modifying vehicle settings using an "as-built" data spreadsheet, the asterisk (
*) and dash (-) symbols in the code values are placeholders that signify the software will automatically calculate and input the correct values, primarily for checksums.


Meaning of the Symbols

• Asterisk (*): This acts as a wildcard in the data field. You do not need to enter a specific value here; FORScan will automatically determine and insert the necessary digits or letters.
• Dash (-) or Hyphen: Similar to the asterisk, the dash indicates a value that is automatically generated by the vehicle's system or the FORScan software itself, typically a checksum value used for verification. The software will populate this field for you.

How to Handle Them

When you are inputting codes into FORScan:

• Do not literally type asterisks or dashes into the data entry fields in the software.
• Leave these fields alone in the spreadsheet values you are referencing. FORScan will handle the necessary calculations and input the correct information into the vehicle's module automatically when you write the changes to the car.

It is strongly recommended to back up your vehicle's modules before making any modifications. The official FORScan website and various owner forums, such as those for the F-150 and Bronco, provide detailed guides and support for using the software correctly.

Thank you, my friend. I will retry this tomorrow and probably get it done correctly.

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