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New GenerLink option (TN, and Utah)

Firebelly

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Your electrician can install a generator inlet, and load panel interlock kit for so much less and as long as the interlock is UL listed should be legal in most states. No transfer switch and you can select any of your current breakers to power. I don't see what makes the generlink system any better. You still have to turn off your main breaker. You still have to carefully choose what breakers to turn on or keep off to keep it under your generator's (or PPOB) max output. Interlock and Inlet Box
Yes that's a good solution too. It has always seemed a little chintzy to me that a little strip of sheet metal is the only thing preventing you from incinerating your truck, or at least the pro power. But if people are using them and they work, that's great.
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jwrezz

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Found this:
 

TechnoSwiss

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150 vs 200 amp service doesn't matter in an outage when you are using a generator. It's not likely one has access to a 36kw (let alone a 48kw) generator. PPOB is only good for 7200 watts
That limit is actually the service limit because of the meter base passthrough / transfer switch, so yes it does matter because it affects your entire service limit. Which is why I was glad to see this option doesn't limit you to 150A like the earlier one.
 

123XYZ

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California PG&E offers this "Backup Power Transfer Meter Program". "Quickly, easily, and safely power your home with a generator during an outage."

https://www.pge.com/en/outages-and-...rces/backup-power-transfer-meter-program.html

Shows a list of compatible generators, with:
-Ford Pro Power Onboard (PPO) F-150 Hybrid PPO 7.2 Kw
-Ford Pro Power Onboard (PPO) F-150 EV PPO 7.2 Kw
-Chevrolet Power Base 240v 30A Silverado EV
Wow! Thanks for that link. I'm a PG&E customer and a simple meter-collar generator connection that incorporates a transfer switch AND IS FREE(!) may put my on-again off-again quest to add the 7.2 kW inverter to my Lightning back on again. I still need to run to ground what replbates & discounts/payments are available for a full vehicle-to-grid setup that feeds power to the grid when demand is high relative to cheap (solar*) supply and charges the truck at night and at peak solar hours when cheap (solar + baseload hydro,** nuclear,** and geothermal**) supply is high relative to demand.


*Onshore wind is also pretty cheap and there's no marginal cost to producing it when demand is low. If the wind is blowing, the utility needs somebody to use it or it goes to waste with no revenue. But, inside wind is very small compared to solar in California.

**No, the average cost of nuclear isn't low. It's very high. But the marginal cost of producing power when demand is low is close to zero because, even if the plants are built to allow throttling, which they generally aren't in the US, there's very little savings involved in producing less power. Geothermal has similar off-peak marginal costs and hydro is close.
 

123XYZ

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That limit is actually the service limit because of the meter base passthrough / transfer switch, so yes it does matter because it affects your entire service limit. Which is why I was glad to see this option doesn't limit you to 150A like the earlier one.
Thanks for explaining what that limit is based on. It makes sense now.
 

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jwrezz

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That limit is actually the service limit because of the meter base passthrough / transfer switch, so yes it does matter because it affects your entire service limit. Which is why I was glad to see this option doesn't limit you to 150A like the earlier one.
Oh wow! So you couldn't get this system and maintain a 200amp service!?! Well I'm glad they fixed that! With EVs becoming so common aren't more homes having more than 200amp service installed?
 

chl

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Regarding the neutral and ground bond, I assume this transfer switch also switches the neutral if they are advertising compatibility with Ford ProPower.

Does anyone know if these Generlink's are neutral switching?
No they require an unbonded generator source, so will not work with the Lightning bonded PPOB.
The install warns against using a bonded generator due to a shock hazard.

"Failure to use the BPTM with a non-bonded or floating neutral generator can result in electric shock.
PG&E recommends using non-bonded or floating neutral generators when connecting to the Backup Power Transfer Meters (BPTM), for whole home backup.
• Check your owner’s manual to ensure your generator is non-bonded (floating neutral) and complies with National Electrical Codes and local city codes when connected to the BPTM.
• To verify compliance, review your generator operational manual or consult with your generator manufacturer...."

From the PG&E "Generator Setup and Operation Guidelines" document for the Backup Power Transfer Meter.
 

bmwhitetx

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For those wondering if it works with the Lightning, check the original post on this product. @Wsh68 was an early user of the PGE program and showed it working with the Lightning in post 15:
https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...ee-for-some-pg-e-customers.16910/#post-340597

Skimming the rest of the thread at least one other person got it but didn’t test it. And there is a claim that the PGE device is a different Generlink model than their other offerings.

Even then, if the truck’s GFI trips, the solution is the same as those who use an interlock and may be what @Wsh68 did. But lets please not beat that dead horse anymore.
 

jwrezz

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Been doing some research. Would removing the ground conductor/prong from the truck to the house/generator inlet fix this issue? The house would still be protected by it's ground system, and the truck wouldn't see any current on the ground. Is there a way with PPOB, as there is with a standard generator, to disconnect the ground/neutral bond? I've seen generators with floating neutral and a rigged plug connecting ground to neutral for when it is needed.
 

Firn

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Man I hope this comes to my area soon. With Geo and a HPWH we could be very comfortable during an outage.

I do need to find a good soft start for the geo though, which up till now it seems hard to find a well reviewed one.
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