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Mike G

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So a few notes from my install today....

I actually did try to remove all the stuff needed to perform this task according to the workshop manual. It was a PITA, and 90% of it is unnecessary.

If you've read through it at all you know they want you to essentially remove the entire center stack, which is actually ridiculous once you know the routine.

I've attached the instructions here (again) for those who want to read along...

So my experience was on a Lariat with a 15.5" center display. I've seen the online video(s) where a guy swaps the shifter on a F-150 King Ranch with the 10" screen and that's a lot easier.

And the video made by @branden is a good reference...with one exception, and I'll talk about that below.

So if you're going to do this using the instructions on a Lightning with a 15.5 inch screen, I recommend you start at step 13. Skip every bit of removing the center stack. All of it.

Take the two left and right side covers off by prying outward on the rear of the cover and then when all the clips are unseated just slide it back. (When reinstalling you'll notice that the right side cover, for some unknown reason, is a little fiddly to get back in place, so you need to actually go around to the passenger side and lean down and check that your front tabs are going into the slots when trying to align it.)

After the side covers come off, you want to make sure your stowage compartment door is in the closed position so you can get the center trim off. Lift up on the rear corners of the center trim covering the shifter and cup holders. Then get out of the driver's seat and lean down and look for the front alignment pin/hole next to the forward most clip and press it up and out of the alignment hole:
Ford F-150 Lightning Stick to Rotary Shift Knob Conversion w/ 3D Printed Rotary Shifter Holder Left_side_alignment_tab

That tab that the pin goes into will flex down enough to lift the pin out of the hole and you just wiggle it back with your index finger. With the pin out of the hole and sitting in the gap right behind the hole....go around to the right side and repeat the procedure to get the right side pin out of the alignment hole as well:
Ford F-150 Lightning Stick to Rotary Shift Knob Conversion w/ 3D Printed Rotary Shifter Holder Right_side_Alignment_tab


Then with the center trim piece lifted in the rear...disconnect the key detection module under the right rear cupholder, and lift the center trim piece clear, and then proceed to swap the shifter as shown in the video.

When you're ready to replace the center trim piece back in you'll probably have to first slide the left and right side alignment pins into their holes first (lean down so you're at eye level, like in the pics) and then with the front pins in the holes, and while holding up the rear of the center trim, plug the connector back in for the key detection module.

Left side trim piece is dead easy...but like I said for some reason the right side takes a bit of fiddling to get it back into place.

After I did the install I connected up FDRS and checked for DTCs...nothing found. So I selected the GSM module and then selected the 'VIN Write' procedure (just in case it had the previous vehicles VIN embedded somewhere in the firmware, I don't know if it did or not). I did not do a PMI. There's no way that would have worked, since this shifter isn't supposed to be provisioned in this vehicle application. But it works great..

And just to confirm, The shifter I used is a LX6P-7P155-LE part number, out of a '21 model Bronco Sport. And it's fully functional and throws no errors.
Ford F-150 Lightning Stick to Rotary Shift Knob Conversion w/ 3D Printed Rotary Shifter Holder LX6P-7P155-LE

Ford F-150 Lightning Stick to Rotary Shift Knob Conversion w/ 3D Printed Rotary Shifter Holder Bronco_Sport_GSM_in_Lightnin
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digitaldad

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Left side trim piece is dead easy...but like I said for some reason the right side takes a bit of fiddling to get it back into place.
My left trim was a PITA to remove. I assume it was the first time removed since being built but damn that thing was wedged in there, very tightly. I thought for sure I had removed one of the metal clips from the plastic assembly where that thing was jammed into. Second time removal was no big deal.

The other challenge was lifting up the assembly, there's a small wire bundle at the bottom of (below) the cup holders...has very little slack from where its held into a bundle clip into the metal frame. Shoulda just cut that blasted thing off.
 

Mike G

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My left trim was a PITA to remove. I assume it was the first time removed since being built but damn that thing was wedged in there, very tightly. I thought for sure I had removed one of the metal clips from the plastic assembly where that thing was jammed into. Second time removal was no big deal.

The other challenge was lifting up the assembly, there's a small wire bundle at the bottom of (below) the cup holders...has very little slack from where its held into a bundle clip into the metal frame. Shoulda just cut that blasted thing off.
That wire bundle and the pigtail you're talking about is the one for the Key Detection module under the right rear cupholder. It was a tight stretch to get it to reconnect, but it did. Yeah, getting that one unplugged, and then afterward re-plugged took a minute...
 

21st Century Truck

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That wire bundle and the pigtail you're talking about is the one for the Key Detection module under the right rear cupholder. It was a tight stretch to get it to reconnect, but it did. Yeah, getting that one unplugged, and then afterward re-plugged took a minute...
...and THIS feature is an important one, for reprogramming a fob and for starting the car / truck with the fob's proximity feature if the 12V battery is dead..
 

Mike G

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...and THIS feature is an important one, for reprogramming a fob and for starting the car / truck with the fob's proximity feature if the 12V battery is dead..
Well it's a bit more than that....after I installed the rotary shifter but prior to buttoning everything back up I went to start the truck to see if there were any DTCs using FDRS......well I immediately got a "No Key Detected" message in the IPC. So I had to then grab the top trim cover with the cupholder and key detection module and actually plug it back in just so I could get the truck to start.

So if that thing's not plugged in, you'd have to resort to using a backup code or something.
 

21st Century Truck

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Well it's a bit more than that....after I installed the rotary shifter but prior to buttoning everything back up I went to start the truck to see if there were any DTCs using FDRS......well I immediately got a "No Key Detected" message in the IPC. So I had to then grab the top trim cover with the cupholder and key detection module and actually plug it back in just so I could get the truck to start.

So if that thing's not plugged in, you'd have to resort to using a backup code or something.
Ahh... it must be "checking for a failsafe" or something.
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