I just read it doesn't light up like the silver one.
The letters still light up, but yeah, the Escape dial (silver) has a blue light ring around the base of the dial whereas the Maverick and E-Transit does not.
Amazing work, great job!Here's my shifter setup...
I didn't necessarily like the existing designs as they were a bit "chunky" and made an attempt to get it more OEM looking.
BIG thanks to @ENDianDigital, without his design/kick in the butt I probably wouldn't have done this, it started as a few mods and turned into a complete redesign.
Main differences are that the shifter is located at the front (the cable is long enough if you cut/push out the strap holding it to the side wall).
The shifter is tilted 10-15 degrees.
You dont have to cut the tabs.
It accommodates the Escape and E-Transit shifters.
I ended up using the E-Transit shifter, being black, it doesn't stand out as much as a chrome would.
I painted the tub with a graphite metallic and dusted it with flat black to try and match the color/look of the cup holders, followed up with a matte clear.
And, yes, I'll post the drawings, this was basically the prototype and theres a few changes that I'd like to make before posting them.
IMHO this might well be true, as the vertical front-to-back rotation movements of the OEM shifter stick would necessitate front as well as rear anchor points for the OEM shifter body, and the rotational shifter eliminates this front-to-back force input.
Pls see my post #309 in this thread for pix and some answers You're seeking.
Also check out my related posts #212, 213 and 214 about the Mach E rotary shifter.
I feel kind of dumb because I have no idea what you're referring to.
Yep on XLT. I figured this out half way into my install. I followed a higher trim video tutorial and was scratching my head on how to get the shifter trim out from under the AC controls. I ended up having to watch a 2021 ICE video on how to replace radio to get the multiple dash trim pieces off safely. Thanks for your comment to point me in the right direction.Finally got the 3D printed tub today after ordering in March after reading your OP. The maker ManionMakes on Etsy got slammed with orders after this mod hit the forums, both for Lightning and ICE F150's. I was able to get your linked shift knob when it was still $30 back in March. That part has also become harder to find and more expensive as this mod has become popular ($275 now !!).
Installed everything this afternoon when the tub arrived. Just like everyone else on this thread, I LOVE the result! It is a little more of a PITA to install on my Pro trim and XLT if you have that due to having to remove more trim pieces to gain access. In addition to the two side trim pieces, I had to remove the long silver piece across the dash from the passenger side to the on/off button, the trim around the small center screen, and the four screws that hold in the knobs and buttons before being able to get the top trim piece off that allows access to the shifter. A trim tool and lots of patience helps..... At least I have a set of trim tools.
Thanks @jmyer72 for posting your OP with parts links
I got these from Amazon.
Just the basic small trim lever is all You need (all I needed) on the XLT.
Hey, yeah sorry, I totally missed that front right bolt hole in your original pics. Yeah, that would totally be sufficient from what I've seen.I feel kind of dumb because I have no idea what you're referring to.
The "tub" is using the back two bolts and the front right one to secure the tub.
I have a hole for the front left one as well, but the shifter connector is right above the bolt so it's too tight to get a screw/tool in there.
I did do a reverse bolt and got it attached from the back side / underneath, before realizing it was a really bad idea and that any dealership coming up on it would hate you forever, so I took it out and that one front, right, bolt holds it just fine.
The shifter use all three mounting points, I got a thread insert thingy for my soldering iron and pushed in three M4 inserts. The shifter is TIGHT so you may not have to secure it further, I just figured better safe than sorry. But I ran a PLA print for 2w without securing it and it was just fine.
