ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[invertedspear]

anyone notice their truck camera display looks like this after the update ? Am I doing something wrong ?

My truck came like that. There's apparently a process to align it, but you have to have FDRS or Forscan or something to DIY. Need to take it in and have a tech align your cameras. I need to do the same but good luck finding a service department that doesn't want to just hold your truck on their lot for a week before they'll even look at it.

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[MickeyAO]

My update of IPMA has been running for over 5 hours. About 3 hours ago I got 'Operation in Progress' and have had the lights dancing and a lot of clicking.

Update on the update. After watching the lights dance for over 5 hours, and the LVB bouncing from 5V-8V, I pulled the positive cable and let the LVB charge overnight. Came back the next morning and did another install of the IPMA. This went through without the light show.

However, I now have Pre-collision not available and my camera looks like what @ChrisCon posted. I also noticed my light pattern looks higher on the right side, but no one flashed their lights at me. Another thing is I have not had a front sensor alert go for no reason like it normally does.

Would someone look in PTS for 1FT6W1EV5NWG03338 and make suggestions on what to do next? I have both FDS and FORscan.

@Mike G what would you suggest?

 

[mr.Magoo]

Update on the update. After watching the lights dance for over 5 hours, and the LVB bouncing from 5V-8V, I pulled the positive cable and let the LVB charge overnight. Came back the next morning and did another install of the IPMA. This went through without the light show.

5V !!!??? Holy cow ! And here I thought mine was bad at 9V

I just did the drivers camera module and the strange thing is that the download (from the internet) took 2 seconds or so, but the update took roughly an hour and 15min during which my battery reached 9V and at that point I was very concerned that I might brick the truck. Needless to say, I'm shopping for a 100A power-supply right now, that was way too close for comfort.

Plus I think my LVB is toast, it's been showing some weird behavior the past couple of days.

 

[MickeyAO]

5V !!!??? Holy cow ! And here I thought mine was bad at 9V

I just did the drivers camera module and the strange thing is that the download (from the internet) took 2 seconds or so, but the update took roughly an hour and 15min during which my battery reached 9V and at that point I was very concerned that I might brick the truck. Needless to say, I'm shopping for a 100A power-supply right now, that was way too close for comfort.

Plus I think my LVB is toast, it's been showing some weird behavior the past couple of days.

My charger is a 120V plugin that was delivering 20-25 A throughout the process.

 

[mr.Magoo]

My charger is a 120V plugin that was delivering 20-25 A throughout the process.

I've done two full upgrade sessions with a Clore 20A earlier and that was fine although it went down to about 11.2-11.3, so I figured if I get a 25A instead I should be good. That worked beautifully (11.8-12V) earlier this year but I suppose the combination of a tired LVB and 30F degree weather is pushing it's limits.

 

[rugedraw]

Update on the update. After watching the lights dance for over 5 hours, and the LVB bouncing from 5V-8V, I pulled the positive cable and let the LVB charge overnight. Came back the next morning and did another install of the IPMA. This went through without the light show.

However, I now have Pre-collision not available and my camera looks like what @ChrisCon posted. I also noticed my light pattern looks higher on the right side, but no one flashed their lights at me. Another thing is I have not had a front sensor alert go for no reason like it normally does.

Would someone look in PTS for 1FT6W1EV5NWG03338 and make suggestions on what to do next? I have both FDS and FORscan.

@Mike G what would you suggest?

Based on the DTC's you truck just recorded, your findings are well justified. I see you tried to update the IPMA again a second time. I don't have access to FDRS now, but I am assuming the IPMA update is still available for you in FDRS? Vehicle history shows the second IPMA update did not go through due to a unknown battery check error.

My instinct tells me to PMI the IPMA and select "no" when asked if it is the original module, but I am going to ask for a second opinion.

 

[rugedraw]

@MickeyAO Second opinion came back and my hunch was correct. Run a PMI and select "no" to the original module question. That should fix the issue.

 

[MickeyAO]

@MickeyAO Second opinion came back and my hunch was correct. Run a PMI and select "no" to the original module question. That should fix the issue.

IPMA no longer available under software updates. And please educate me on PMI.

 

[rugedraw]

IPMA no longer available under software updates. And please educate me on PMI.

In the toolbox tab, click the IPMA module on the left and this menu showing everything that can be done to that module as far as FDRS procedures will populate on the right. Download and run the PMI. It will ask you if the original module is installed, and you select "no" in this case. If you select yes, it will load the original as-built data and that you do not want. If you select no, it will look for the correct files needed to properly config the IPMA based on the current software state of your truck.

The PMI will take just as long as the updating the module, so three hours in this case. Do it when you have time to do it, and this will fix the issue.

 

[MickeyAO]

In the toolbox tab, click the IPMA module on the left and this menu showing everything that can be done to that module as far as FDRS procedures will populate on the right. Download and run the PMI. It will ask you if the original module is installed, and you select "no" in this case. If you select yes, it will load the original as-built data and that you do not want. If you select no, it will look for the correct files needed to properly config the IPMA based on the current software state of your truck.

The PMI will take just as long as the updating the module, so three hours in this case. Do it when you have time to do it, and this will fix the issue.

Thank you much! It will be a couple of weeks before I have the time to do this on a weekend, but will let you know.

 

[mr.Magoo]

I don't know if anyone has posted this before, but I wish I had known how much current is actually used during an update, because, had I known I probably would not have tried to take some shortcuts / skimp on the power supply.

Granted, 64A is on the high side, it hovers around 50A quite a bit, never above 70A that I saw and never below 40A. But lets say the average is 50A, that means that anything less than a 50A power supply and you're eating away at the 12V LVB Battery which is only 35Ah.

For example, if you do two Clore 20A in parallel (for 40A total), you're now using up 10A over what they can supply, so your 12V battery will (in theory) last about 3 hours (IF, big IF, it's in tip top shape and fully charged when you begin) before things start getting really sketchy.
The update I'm doing right now (IPMA module) took about 2.5 hrs and supposedly there are others that take even longer.

So yeah, having seen this I probably wouldn't recommend anyone using anything smaller than 65-75A

 

[MickeyAO]

I don't know if anyone has posted this before, but I wish I had known how much current is actually used during an update, because, had I known I probably would not have tried to take some shortcuts / skimp on the power supply.

Granted, 64A is on the high side, it hovers around 50A quite a bit, never above 70A that I saw and never below 40A. But lets say the average is 50A, that means that anything less than a 50A power supply and you're eating away at the 12V LVB Battery which is only 35Ah.

For example, if you do two Clore 20A in parallel (for 40A total), you're now using up 10A over what they can supply, so your 12V battery will (in theory) last about 3 hours (IF, big IF, it's in tip top shape and fully charged when you begin) before things start getting really sketchy.
The update I'm doing right now (IPMA module) have been running 1.5 hours with another 30min (or so to go) and supposedly there are others that take even longer.

So yeah, having seen this I probably wouldn't recommend anyone using anything smaller than 65-75A

What are you using here (link if possible) and how easy is it to figure out to put it in the proper mode? I know cells and batteries, but I'm pretty useless when it comes to automotive work.

 

[mr.Magoo]

What are you using here (link if possible) and how easy is it to figure out to put it in the proper mode? I know cells and batteries, but I'm pretty useless when it comes to automotive work.

It's a Schumacher INC 100
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756NVGHV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's not cheap, but I chose it over the Clore 100A as it has a 15A cord, (sure you can cut it or have an adpter, etc.) plus it's pretty compact and light weight.
The bottom left button is for flash mode, press it, use up/down buttons to set your voltage and hit start - done.

I also stumbled on a IOTA DLS 90
https://www.iotaengineering.com/pro...or-dc-load-operation-and-12v-battery-charging

Much less expensive (~$300) but not as "fancy". But, it has very stable/clean 12V output from what some tests shown but is very "manual" in the sense that there's no settings or display or anything, just plug it in and go. (power supply only, requires an "IQ module" if you intend to use it as a charger.

 

[MickeyAO]

It's a Schumacher INC 100
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756NVGHV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's not cheap, but I chose it over the Clore 100A as it has a 15A cord, (sure you can cut it or have an adpter, etc.) plus it's pretty compact and light weight.
The bottom left button is for flash mode, press it, use up/down buttons to set your voltage and hit start - done.

I also stumbled on a IOTA DLS 90
https://www.iotaengineering.com/pro...or-dc-load-operation-and-12v-battery-charging

Much less expensive (~$300) but not as "fancy". But, it has very stable/clean 12V output from what some tests shown but is very "manual" in the sense that there's no settings or display or anything, just plug it in and go. (power supply only, requires an "IQ module" if you intend to use it as a charger.

Definitely not cheap, but after what I went through with the last update, well worth it! And since I know I have to go through another 3 hour update as suggested by @rugedraw, I have it on order.

 

[rugedraw]

Definitely not cheap, but after what I went through with the last update, well worth it! And since I know I have to go through another 3 hour update as suggested by @rugedraw, I have it on order.

I'm still learning about the EVs. Just learned today on the MME forums that the low voltage battery on the EVs has half the capacity of the ICE vehicles. You guys do need a beyond capable power supply for these things.

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