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rugedraw

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Definitely not cheap, but after what I went through with the last update, well worth it! And since I know I have to go through another 3 hour update as suggested by @rugedraw, I have it on order.
I'm still learning about the EVs. Just learned today on the MME forums that the low voltage battery on the EVs has half the capacity of the ICE vehicles. You guys do need a beyond capable power supply for these things.
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Mike G

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The two most common off-the-shelf powersupplies that many use for FDRS programming are the Clore PL6100 (100A), or two of the Clore PL2320 (20A) powersupplies in a piggyback configuration.

There are many other options available like 'barebones' units that need to be wired up with terminals and power cord.

The IPMA is singularly the biggest challenge for any powersupply since the update normally takes nearly three hours with fast internet (using a Mongoose). Several folks on the MME site have measured around 39-40A during IPMA programming.

You never want to see the voltage drop (in FDRS) down to below 11.0 volts. Or you'll likely be doing this update all over again once you get a proper powersupply.
 

Mike G

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If you plan on doing the the most recent IPMA and PSCM coordinated update using FDRS but haven't done it yet, there is a chance that your PSCM will remain in the list of available software and not clear.

If this happens to you try running a PMI on the PSCM and remember to say "No" when asked if your original module is still installed. This will cause a complete refresh of the software and strategy and should correct the problem.
Ford F-150 Lightning ECU module programming guide using FDRS PMI_PSCM
 

mattskr

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The IPMA is singularly the biggest challenge for any powersupply since the update normally takes nearly three hours with fast internet (using a Mongoose). Several folks on the MME site have measured around 39-40A during IPMA programming.
How in the world is this ever supposed to get applied over OTA at some point if that much amperage is needed?
 

rugedraw

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How in the world is this ever supposed to get applied over OTA at some point if that much amperage is needed?
Not easily. This is why many OTA updates that require the vehicle to be inhibited fail so much due to unsatisfactory battery conditions. This has been a problem since day one.
 
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BSull

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It's a Schumacher INC 100
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756NVGHV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's not cheap, but I chose it over the Clore 100A as it has a 15A cord, (sure you can cut it or have an adpter, etc.) plus it's pretty compact and light weight.
The bottom left button is for flash mode, press it, use up/down buttons to set your voltage and hit start - done.

I also stumbled on a IOTA DLS 90
https://www.iotaengineering.com/pro...or-dc-load-operation-and-12v-battery-charging

Much less expensive (~$300) but not as "fancy". But, it has very stable/clean 12V output from what some tests shown but is very "manual" in the sense that there's no settings or display or anything, just plug it in and go. (power supply only, requires an "IQ module" if you intend to use it as a charger.
Has anybody used one of the 12v power supplies similar to the iota engineering product? I see alot of RV style 100 amp converters and chargers that can be switched from 3 stage charging to constant output. They are usually substantially less expensive than the Clore or Schumacher 100 amp units also.
 

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I did about 7 hours straight to Accessory Mode FDRS updates with the Clore 20 Amp Power Supply/charger.

FDRS sat at 13.3-13.4 the majority of the 7 hours. Admittedly I kept the headlights off every time the truck rebooted. And I had HVAC off. I did leave FM radio on just to keep up with what was running or not.

Not a Lightning, by the way. But a Powerboost instead.
 

mr.Magoo

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I did about 7 hours straight to Accessory Mode FDRS updates with the Clore 20 Amp Power Supply/charger.
....
Not a Lightning, by the way. But a Powerboost instead.
That's great, if you're only doing Powerboost updates !

The lightning is (among other things that I don't know exactly what it does) running the coolant pumps for the batteries plus you can hear servo actuators doing their thing as well.
 

mr.Magoo

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Has anybody used one of the 12v power supplies similar to the iota engineering product?
I'm going to try one once things warm up a little.
I don't see why it wouldn't work just fine, it's just a big a-- power supply.
The base voltage is 13.4V which is good, you can add the jumper to raise that to 14.2 but I don't see the point of doing that as you're running the risk of charging / overcharging the LVB at that point.
If you DO want to use it as a charger there's also some IQ modules for various functions, but I'd rather pull out a small trickle charger than that big thing just for charging.
 

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I'm going to try one once things warm up a little.
I don't see why it wouldn't work just fine, it's just a big a-- power supply.
The base voltage is 13.4V which is good, you can add the jumper to raise that to 14.2 but I don't see the point of doing that as you're running the risk of charging / overcharging the LVB at that point.
If you DO want to use it as a charger there's also some IQ modules for various functions, but I'd rather pull out a small trickle charger than that big thing just for charging.
I have 2 clore 2320s and even with those in parallel I've seen the battery voltage drop some (11.8) if I remember correctly and that was not during an hours long programming session. I looked at the RV charger/power supplies like this one:

Amazon.com: RV Converter | Multiple Capacities | RV Power Converter | RV Battery Charger (100Amp) : Automotive

You would need to add the DC cables.
 

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chillaban

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I did about 7 hours straight to Accessory Mode FDRS updates with the Clore 20 Amp Power Supply/charger.

FDRS sat at 13.3-13.4 the majority of the 7 hours. Admittedly I kept the headlights off every time the truck rebooted. And I had HVAC off. I did leave FM radio on just to keep up with what was running or not.

Not a Lightning, by the way. But a Powerboost instead.
Definitely this is not enough for the Lightning. At 30 amps it drained to 9 volts within an hour but fortunately the DC DC converter kicked in to prevent the battery from going completely flat. You definitely need 40 amps or more.
 

chillaban

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I have 2 clore 2320s and even with those in parallel I've seen the battery voltage drop some (11.8) if I remember correctly and that was not during an hours long programming session. I looked at the RV charger/power supplies like this one:

Amazon.com: RV Converter | Multiple Capacities | RV Power Converter | RV Battery Charger (100Amp) : Automotive

You would need to add the DC cables.
I haven’t tried this but an idea I saw on Reddit is to use a 900+ watt PC PSU’s 12V rails. I’m an electrical engineer and I think that could potentially work. I’m not volunteering to try it!
 

BSull

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I haven’t tried this but an idea I saw on Reddit is to use a 900+ watt PC PSU’s 12V rails. I’m an electrical engineer and I think that could potentially work. I’m not volunteering to try it!
Don't think I'll be trying that particular option either.
 

djstough

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So I dropped my truck off for 23B57 and 23B70, along with an issue with a parking sensor. They told me that when doing the updates, it required other modules to be updated, and one of them failed to update and is now in failure mode needing replacement.

I'm curious what my update list looks like, if anyone has a moment, please; 1FT6W1EVXPWG42915
 
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rugedraw

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So I dropped my truck off for 23B57 and 23B70, along with an issue with a parking sensor. They told me that when doing the updates, it required other modules to be updated, and one of them failed to update and is now in failure mode needing replacement.

I'm curious what my update list looks like, if anyone has a moment, please; 1FT6W1EVXPWG42915
It got hung up while they were trying to update the IPMA. Same thing happened to a Mach E owner this week where the dealer got stuck updating the IPMA showing the same programming errors as your truck.

Modules pending updates are below:

Ford F-150 Lightning ECU module programming guide using FDRS 1706915942338
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