Stick to Rotary Shift Knob Conversion w/ 3D Printed Rotary Shifter Holder

[rio]

I've also got the Elegoo Centauri Carbon and was curious as to your slicer settings you did, if you still have the gcode file I would love a copy if you don't mind? Was going to print mine off soon and was going to use ABS however starting to think I should grab some PETG-GF going off how good yours turned out!

PM Sent. I'm not sure what to expect in terms of material longevity with PETG, but I can always print another one in the future if need be.

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[sstevetx]

FWIW, I printed mine in PETG and my truck is parked outside. I've had it installed since early April and I haven't had any issues in the Texas heat so far.

 

[VAL.ABAPO]

FWIW, I printed mine in PETG and my truck is parked outside. I've had it installed since early April and I haven't had any issues in the Texas heat so far.

Good to know. I'll be trying out PETG-GF next.

 

[VAL.ABAPO]

I didn't, well, until now that is.
My first print turned into a birdsnest halfway through, so I had to start over.
I modified the tub slightly so that it accepts the Bronco shifter as well, top one is Escape and bottom is Bronco (same tub) and it also does E-Transit (which is the one I'm using). Escape and E-Transit fits better due to their chamfered top whereas the Bronco shifter is straight, so visually there's a slightly bigger gap around the knob.

I'm using M4 metal inserts from this kit >> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPVCTXJ7?th=1
Others may work, but this is what I used on mine. I'd use flanged M4x12 screws, but regular M4+washers is OK too.

When mounting it in the truck you need to undo the gray plastic clip in the back left hand side wall holding the cable in place. Because the support bracket end up right behind / underneath the connector you also need to plug the cable into the shifter before you attach the front support.
For the very same reason you can't use the center mounting bolt, it's too tight to get to it (at least for me, but don't worry, it's not going anywhere with the three that's there.

If you feel generous, go here >> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6978586/files and tip @ENDianDigital, it's only because he started it and was kind enough to publish his step files that I even thought about doing this, so credit goes to him.

This ZIP-File has the Step files and the STL files that I used to print the one below.

I'm by no means a mechanical designer, so this isn't optimized for anything except that it works for me. My print took 60hrs (0.12mm layer height and 20% infill), so be prepared to wait.

i'll be printing this design next. are the parts meant to be printed separate or i can print them as one?

 

[mr.Magoo]

i'll be printing this design next. are the parts meant to be printed separate or i can print them as one?

Separate, as you won't ge able to fit/mount the shifter otherwise.

 

[opioid]

Hey all. The original stick shifter has been throwing error codes for months, even once stranded me by sticking in D and not returning to P for hours (then spontaneously moved itself back for no reason).
I just installed the ManionMakes shifter box with an eBay rotary shifter (part OEM JX6P-7P155), quick and easy job. Everything seems to function perfectly (it even rotates itself back to P when I open the driver's door while in D, not electronically, actually moves the dial with a motor). However, when I shut the truck down, it now throws an error on the dash:
Shift system fault
Confirm park brake
Apply park brake before exiting the vehicle

Any ideas about how to fix this?

 

[opioid]

Hey all. The original stick shifter has been throwing error codes for months, even once stranded me by sticking in D and not returning to P for hours (then spontaneously moved itself back for no reason).
I just installed the ManionMakes shifter box with an eBay rotary shifter (part OEM JX6P-7P155), quick and easy job. Everything seems to function perfectly (it even rotates itself back to P when I open the driver's door while in D, not electronically, actually moves the dial with a motor). However, when I shut the truck down, it now throws an error on the dash:
Shift system fault
Confirm park brake
Apply park brake before exiting the vehicle

Any ideas about how to fix this?

 

[Rice_classic]

I just canceled my manionmakes order because it took too long and in that time I bought a printer.

Last night I did my first test print and holy smokes the k1 max does good work. Looking forward to doing this again with PETG in black or blue.

 

[Rice_classic]

Hey all. The original stick shifter has been throwing error codes for months, even once stranded me by sticking in D and not returning to P for hours (then spontaneously moved itself back for no reason).
I just installed the ManionMakes shifter box with an eBay rotary shifter (part OEM JX6P-7P155), quick and easy job. Everything seems to function perfectly (it even rotates itself back to P when I open the driver's door while in D, not electronically, actually moves the dial with a motor). However, when I shut the truck down, it now throws an error on the dash:
Shift system fault
Confirm park brake
Apply park brake before exiting the vehicle

Any ideas about how to fix this?

What vehicle is that shifter from? I have not dug through the thread about which ones are most compatible but aren’t there some that are more likely to throw this code? To solve it, you may need a different one from a different ford.

 

[The Weatherman]

I just canceled my manionmakes order because it took too long and in that time I bought a printer.

Last night I did my first test print and holy smokes the k1 max does good work. Looking forward to doing this again with PETG in black or blue.

Might want to check into the heat resistance of the various materials available for your printer. ASA has a higher heat tolerance than PETG from what I’ve seen. Just saying.

 

[opioid]

I just figured that any OEM Ford rotary shifter with the same dimensions and 7P155 in the part number would work. And for the most part, this particular version (JX6P7P155) does function perfectly. According to the interwebs, this part fits "Focus MK4 (2018–2023), Escape (2019+), and Fusion/Mondeo with an electric shifter.

In fact, the wrench light on the dash, which was on pretty much all the time with the Stick in there, is now off, so that's a win. And the Warning that flashes only after I shut the truck off does not throw a DTC or the wrench light. I will try to dig deeper in Forscan to see what exactly the code might be, but for the time being I'm happy with the result. If I can't figure it out, then a new rotary shifter must be the answer.

Thanks to everyone who has weighed in. If you have more ideas, I'm all ears.

 

[HisSvt2]

Hey, I just did this mod on my XLT with 12" screen. Wish I had watched this video first! But yes, our dash trim removal is very similar. Start at top like he did , then pop off the long horizontal piece that contains the push to start switch. From there, just remove the 4 screws from climate bezel . I didn't disconnect any connectors, there is enough slack to just rest it on front storage area. Then off with the lower trim and console bezel. I did remember to stow handle prior to removal, just to make it easier to store if I want to revert back.

Wasn't too bad, did it in the dark, but did manage to lose a trim clip by the passenger air vent.
Worth the wait for 3D print, and I am enjoying it so far. I will say, I must have rested my hand on shifter more than I realized, keep catching myself reaching for it and feeling my hand drop haha.

Good luck, let me know if you have any questions.

This was from a Reddit user with a lightning XLT

 

[sstevetx]

The original shifter models required removing the mounting tabs from the rotary shifter to make them fit. However, the newer models are designed to work with the shifter's mounting tabs. Has anyone figured out a way to add the mounting tabs back to a rotary shifter? That or a good workaround to make it mount and stay? Maybe using something like a pipe hanger strap screwed into the mount holes in the 3d printed tub and ran across the bottom of the rotary shifter.

I'm wondering if someone good with 3d modeling could make something with mounting tabs that the shifter without tabs could just slide into. Any thoughts?

A step model of the actual rotary shifter was attached to the thread below. It includes models of the shifter with and without mounting tabs.

https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...inted-rotary-shifter-holder.25541/post-501808

EDIT: I picked up some galvanized pipe hanger strap from Lowe's and made a mount that holds it in place. The galvanized allows you to bend it in the shape you want which works better than the plastic version. Wrapped it in loom tape as well and it holds it in place. I attached a pic of the mount on the Nalgene model. I used 2 of the existing screw holes and drilled 2 additional at the top in place that doesn't show from the top. It's not perfect by any means, but it at least gives me some options now.

 

[VAL.ABAPO]

I didn't, well, until now that is.
My first print turned into a birdsnest halfway through, so I had to start over.
I modified the tub slightly so that it accepts the Bronco shifter as well, top one is Escape and bottom is Bronco (same tub) and it also does E-Transit (which is the one I'm using). Escape and E-Transit fits better due to their chamfered top whereas the Bronco shifter is straight, so visually there's a slightly bigger gap around the knob.

I'm using M4 metal inserts from this kit >> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPVCTXJ7?th=1
Others may work, but this is what I used on mine. I'd use flanged M4x12 screws, but regular M4+washers is OK too.

When mounting it in the truck you need to undo the gray plastic clip in the back left hand side wall holding the cable in place. Because the support bracket end up right behind / underneath the connector you also need to plug the cable into the shifter before you attach the front support.
For the very same reason you can't use the center mounting bolt, it's too tight to get to it (at least for me, but don't worry, it's not going anywhere with the three that's there.

If you feel generous, go here >> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6978586/files and tip @ENDianDigital, it's only because he started it and was kind enough to publish his step files that I even thought about doing this, so credit goes to him.

This ZIP-File has the Step files and the STL files that I used to print the one below.

I'm by no means a mechanical designer, so this isn't optimized for anything except that it works for me. My print took 60hrs (0.12mm layer height and 20% infill), so be prepared to wait.

My attempt with your design using PETG-GF

 

[LazyLightningATX]

Got my swap done today. very happy with the gigantic cupholder. my 40oz, bottle is a perfect fit!

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