Enabling charge speed on dash.

[Aminorjourney]

yeah the clamp meter was showing 60amps+ the entire time when I was doing mine. Been using a Powermax PMBC-75 (75 amp) and it's luckily gotten me through several 6hr+ sessions. I'd probably grab the Clore or Schumacher 100 amp supplies if I were doing it again though since the heartburn isn't worth the extra 100-200 saved.

*nervous laugh*

Well, new cables (2 gauge ) have been acquired. Happier about how they're clamping on. Restarted the update, and it seems to be taking.

As I joke "we do this crazy **** so you don't have to "


Interestingly, just as an FYI, the voltage during the first attempt saw no higher than 13.4 volts. Now I'm seeing 14.1, so the new cables are certainly helping a bunch.

FWIW, the old cables came with me from the Uk, I've used them for 20 ish years, and let's just say I'm not sad to see them go. I measured them at about 1/2 inch OD, so they *should* have been fine.

Guess I'm staying up until the wee small hours, eh?

[Edit: Didn't see @Jesse-Infotainment's messages as I was out - and then jumped right back in to reflash. Ended up doing it all again, as I didn't see the message on the doing the last bit.

It's now at 75%, so should be right as rain in the morning!

Best bit: I was SO NERVOUS about it that I ended up doing a half day of video editing work (MME GT review) that we're now ahead of ourselves for next week. Perk of working from home ROFLOL]

Thanks to all

Sponsored

 

[PJnc284]

So what's the verdict? You fall asleep in the middle

 

[Jesse-Infotainment]

I understand how it is.. When I was first starting out with all of this.. I cant tell you how many APIMs I messed up.. IPMAs I was tinkering with loading 1.2 when it wasnt out for us yet.

Great thing about these modules is you really REALLY have to do something to make them not flash again.

IT happened to several guys in the iCE forum with the IPMA flash.. Those were 23 hours.. and it would fail for dead battery or whatever. They came running to the forum My IPMA is PURPLE NOW>.

I had to make a big post telling people what to do because it was happening so much

Some modules wont allow reflashing until you let the truck go completely to sleep. SO You have to do the hardest thing possible and leave it alone for about 30 mins. Lock the truck and walk away.

With The IPC though you can jump back in and get it running again.

Hope you got it all done.

 

[Aminorjourney]

Huzzah.


Need to look at enabling the clock!

Thanks, everyone!

 

[astrand1]

Cool Cool. Thanks. That makes me a *lot* happier . It's currently not raining, but it's looking like it might, and if this is going to take 6 hours... I'd like the cab to stay dry if it rains!

Good luck! Mine took about 5 hrs 20min. I also took the opportunity to get a temp license for fdrs and do those updates as well.

 

[Aminorjourney]

Good luck! Mine took about 5 hrs 20min. I also took the opportunity to get a temp license for fdrs and do those updates as well.

What adapter did you use? I'm using one that's not known for playing nice with FDRS

 

[astrand1]

What adapter did you use? I'm using one that's not known for playing nice with FDRS

I’m using the mongoose cable. Works well with fdrs in my experience. Have used it on quite a few trucks besides my own.

 

[carys98]

I successfully got my ‘23 Lariat SR updated. I may have found one problem with the Forscan beta. After it installed I got the DTC for the incompatible version and loaded the as-built that @Jesse-Infotainment posted. I then restored my as-built and tried to clear the DTC. I changed the fields that @PJnc284 pointed out and it still would not clear. I noticed that when I tried to clear DTCs in Forscan the screen would clear but I wouldn’t get any message that the operation was complete. Finally I switched to Car Scanner and cleared the codes and they did not come back. I verified it with both Forscan and Car Scanner. It seems like there might be a bug in the Forscan beta in the DTC module.

Thanks to @PJnc284 for loaning me his power supply. It pulled about 63A for over 5 hours.

 

[Aminorjourney]

My video on it is here. Apologies if I made mistakes!

 

[JimmySasquatch]

My video on it is here. Apologies if I made mistakes!

Thank you

 

[Aminorjourney]

Thank you

No worries - hope it helps!

 

[PJnc284]

11/10. Definitely good for those on the fence or anyone just interested in the process. CompulsiveCode - AsBuilt Explorer is a good tool to compare as-built files. Tried to add it as comment on the video but it seemingly went to the same black hole after posting that a comment on another channel went yesterday.

 

[Aminorjourney]

11/10. Definitely good for those on the fence or anyone just interested in the process. CompulsiveCode - AsBuilt Explorer is a good tool to compare as-built files. Tried to add it as comment on the video but it seemingly went to the same black hole after posting that a comment on another channel went yesterday.

Alas, YouTube is a pit of horribleness.

We have lost a bunch of subscribers who didn't actually unsubscribe but which the algorithm said "Nah you're done". Same with comments.

 

[BriyGuyUSA]

Are this the correct points to connect the power supply to? https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/jumping-12-volt-battery.16066/post-325705

Also, any other new features / functionality in the 2024 IPC software that we wouldn't have in the 2023, other than the charge speed indicator and the bluecruise lane change animation?

 

[PJnc284]

A standard jump starter isn't going to work. You need something that can actually supply steady power. Schumacher INC100 and Clore PL6100 (requires 20 amp plug or 20-15 adapter) are the big two. Both are 100 amp. I've been using a Powermax PMBC-75 which is a bit cheaper for FDRS and the IPC mod. If you're willing to make your own cables you can get it for quite a bit cheaper.

Sponsored