Battery Part Number?

[inspectordave]

What is the actual part number for the whole battery assembly? And is it able to be ordered in new or remanufactured condition (AKA Not Used)? This part number (NL3Z-10D672-G) is all I can come up with, but it seems unlikely to be the whole thing based on price alone. Guessing this is a specific module/cell?

Background: I have a 2022 Lightning XLT with about 109,000 miles. About a month ago, it started only charging to 87%. Took to the dealership and they confirmed one of the battery cell modules needed replacement. Now, charging tops out at 79% so I am wondering if another cell has gone bad. Instead of trying to play whac-a-mole with battery cells, I am wondering the actual cost of replacement with a new battery done on my own (with help from a mechanic and an electrician). The only actual battery assemblies I can find are used ones, which are problematic for obvious reasons. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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[PreservedSwine]

Look on eBay for one out of a totaled lightning. The battery from Ford is exorbitantly priced if I recall correctly.

 

[DavidS]

Looks like it’s probably NL3Z10B759H for the large battery. Dealer price seems to be around $31k new. You can find it in the Ford parts catalog. Individual modules while pain seems to be the way to go.

 

[Heliian]

Did you have the bad module replaced?

 

[Athrun88]

You're just outside of the battery warranty, might be worth a shot calling the BEV team and seeing they can help in any way. Maybe they can do a trace of when the modules went bad and determine a mileage estimate. Grasping at straws, but maybe if you can determine the modules failed before the 100k mile mark, they might be willing to cover it under warranty.

Had to do a similar thing with Subaru in the past. Cracked sunroof with no signs of impact, reported it just before the bumper to bumper warranty expired. Months went by with no follow up. Checked in after my warranty had expired, said they couldn't do anything about it. Went to corporate and they immediately honoured the fix once they could determine it was reported before the warranty period was up.

Good luck!

 

[Lytning]

Good luck with whatever fix you choose!

This situation prompts me to think that it would be beneficial for other owners near your mileage to take their Lightning in to the dealership for a complete battery test and assessment prior to the 100,000 mile battery warranty expiration, even if at owner expense.

 

[pscytzo]

I really am wondering if we'll see after-market battery packs coming out soon. Especially as new battery tech comes out; it would be nice to just upgrade the batteries in like 5 years or something.

The aftermarket so far is a little disappointing.

 

[DNap4]

Battery:
NL3Z10B759E (Extended Range Battery) - $47,000
NL3Z-10B759-H (Standard Range Battery) - $31,000

Cells:
NL3Z-10D672-F (Extended Range, Front Cell) - $2,500
NL3Z-10D672-E (Extendard Range, Rear Cell) - $3,000
NL3Z-10D672-H (Standard Range, Front Cell) - $2,500
NL3Z-10D672-G (Standard Range, Rear Cell) - $2,500

 

[tubby]

I agree with your "whac-a-mole" statement but more so in reference to you trying to do this on your own. I would think swapping a battery on a Ford Lightning is likely one of the most dangerous and complex DIY tasks you could attempt on a modern vehicle. If you do not want a dealer to take the risk, a specialized independent EV shop may be able to, but warranty is important especially with a high chance of on-going issues. Too many electronic pieces to the puzzle tied to Ford. BECM, FDRS, BMS, etc, etc.

 

[MountainAlive]

Battery:
NL3Z10B759E (Extended Range Battery) - $47,000
NL3Z-10B759-H (Standard Range Battery) - $31,000

Cells:
NL3Z-10D672-F (Extended Range, Front Cell) - $2,500
NL3Z-10D672-E (Extendard Range, Rear Cell) - $3,000
NL3Z-10D672-H (Standard Range, Front Cell) - $2,500
NL3Z-10D672-G (Standard Range, Rear Cell) - $2,500

Yeah I was going to say that a whole new ER pack is probably close to just buying an entire F150 Lightning ER, used with about 40- 50k miles on it.

 

[chl]

Battery:
NL3Z10B759E (Extended Range Battery) - $47,000
NL3Z-10B759-H (Standard Range Battery) - $31,000

Cells:
NL3Z-10D672-F (Extended Range, Front Cell) - $2,500
NL3Z-10D672-E (Extendard Range, Rear Cell) - $3,000
NL3Z-10D672-H (Standard Range, Front Cell) - $2,500
NL3Z-10D672-G (Standard Range, Rear Cell) - $2,500

The ER battery $47k is more than the deal I got on my 2023 Pro new in Jan 2024!
Might as well buy another truck as pay that much?

 

[chl]

There are shops that can swap out the bad module or modules for used ones:


Alex's email: [email protected]
Alex's shop: https://wattworks-ev.com

In the mean time, if you continue to drive the truck with one (or more) bad modules, unpleasant things could happen, like getting the "stop safely now" message, among others...search and you will find other examples.

 

[PreservedSwine]

If you've gotten a standard range, you can still put in an extended range battery, no updates necessary. It will just work according to someone that has done here previously. Looking on eBay, I see a used one with 40,000 miles on it for five grand. Apologies for any speech or grammar errors, using speech to text.

 

[gletob]

I agree with your "whac-a-mole" statement but more so in reference to you trying to do this on your own. I would think swapping a battery on a Ford Lightning is likely one of the most dangerous and complex DIY tasks you could attempt on a modern vehicle. If you do not want a dealer to take the risk, a specialized independent EV shop may be able to, but warranty is important especially with a high chance of on-going issues. Too many electronic pieces to the puzzle tied to Ford. BECM, FDRS, BMS, etc, etc.

It's 8 (iirc, maybe 12 at most) bolts and a few connectors. The connector will not be powered when doing it if you unhook the 12v battery as the contractor will be off inside the battery so no voltage on the connector. Maybe you have both contactors welded closed or one welded and an isolation fault, but that's early checkable with a multimeter, before fingering the HV connector which is generally not recommended anyway. Realistically, the most unsafe thing about a total pack replacement is the weight of it crushing you which can be mitigated by having the truck on a lift and having a preferably hydraulic lifting table rated for the weight to put under the battery to support it. You can also put a new battery of a different size, with the only computer needed being a code scanner possibly to clear any DTCs, no programming/FDRS required, battery communicates with truck and it adjusts accordingly.

My point being, should every Tom, Dick, and Harry do it? Probably not, but it's hardly specialized.

 

[Rayden]

Yeah I was going to say that a whole new ER pack is probably close to just buying an entire F150 Lightning ER, used with about 40- 50k miles on it.

Yes, exactly. I bought my '23 in 2025 with 29k miles on it for that price.

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