Ford Charge Station Pro - not available as option for SR?

[adoublee]

You can always just use the 240 volt/30 amp outlet in the bed (with the pro power option) and run a cord to a transfer switch connected to your main panel. I live in FL, and have a transfer switch that runs essential circuits (fridge, well pump, microwave, etc.). The F-150 with short range battery would run my emergency needs for days. I'm not interested in having the F-150 automatically start, and run the whole house. I would actually prefer to plug it in, turn on the needed circuits when I want. I do understand that with the F-150 hybrid there has a grounding requirement that means you need a compatible transfer switch, but those are only $150-300. I suspect that will be true of the LIghtning as well. I will be very happy to get rid of my generator and use the Lightning just as I would the gen

I'd like to be able to relatively simply parallel on-site solar with the truck so that draw from truck can be reduced when home load exceeds solar generation, and solar can put charge into truck when solar production exceeds home load. This is a contingency for something that extends beyond a few days without utility power, so value will certainly depend on implementation cost. It is not certain this will work with the "intelligent home backup" route, but is almost certain to not work through the bed outlet that is not intended to receive a charge.

Also, the 240V outlet in the bed has the 7.2kW limit and the intelligent home backup route is supposed to support 9.6kW, and I'd like all the power I can get - again within the bounds of value.

My current guesstimate is that the inverter being referenced is in regard to for this system is simply a small inverter that performs a grid-forming (voltage-forming) output for the truck to feed AC into. This would be a smallish-inverter dedicated to the "dark start battery" now being referenced to come with the HIS.

One other piece of potentially supporting evidence here is that a retention slot can be seen in the center of the image with a CCS connector that has been produced (I have never seen the video by Car and Driver this is said to be clipped from). Clearly the end was not placed back in that opening which in this environment surprises me and suggests the CCS end on this cable might not actually fit into the opening. Again, there has been no other indication the end will be CCS other than this photo apparently obtained during a Car and Driver journalist visit.

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[merobin]

Agreed, I’m more concerned if I’m sleeping or not at home while the truck is charging and we have a storm or an accident that knocks power out. I have a saltwater fish tank that would be nice to be backed up instead of the temporary backups I have now on it, plus the fridge/freezer is extra incentive.

Not sure about the fish tank, but from a lot of experience with outages, I know a fridge can go for a few to several hours without problem (as long as you don't open it). I guess I have never slept that long...in fact I am pretty sure I wake up if the power goes out.

 

[merobin]

I'd like to be able to relatively simply parallel on-site solar with the truck so that draw from truck can be reduced when home load exceeds solar generation, and solar can put charge into truck when solar production exceeds home load. This is a contingency for something that extends beyond a few days without utility power, so value will certainly depend on implementation cost. It is not certain this will work with the "intelligent home backup" route, but is almost certain to not work through the bed outlet that is not intended to receive a charge.

Also, the 240V outlet in the bed has the 7.2kW limit and the intelligent home backup route is supposed to support 9.6kW, and I'd like all the power I can get - again within the bounds of value.

My current guesstimate is that the inverter being referenced is in regard to for this system is simply a small inverter that performs a grid-forming (voltage-forming) output for the truck to feed AC into. This would be a smallish-inverter dedicated to the "dark start battery" now being referenced to come with the HIS.

One other piece of potentially supporting evidence here is that a retention slot can be seen in the center of the image with a CCS connector that has been produced (I have never seen the video by Car and Driver this is said to be clipped from). Clearly the end was not placed back in that opening which in this environment surprises me and suggests the CCS end on this cable might not actually fit into the opening. Again, there has been no other indication the end will be CCS other than this photo apparently obtained during a Car and Driver journalist visit.

Yes, that's a lot more complicated use of the Lightning. I have 10kw of solar, but it is grid tied, so getting the solar to generate anything I can use when the grid is down would take a whole new inverter. I never try to run the whole house off of my generator. The AC here in FL would be the big draw, and we get by without out. To run my well pump, septic pump, fridge, microwave, a window AC unit, I could easily get by with 7.2k. Unfortunately, I do it yearly with an 8k generator. I never have had the occasion when all of the circuits are live or drawing power. All of the devices on those circuits are intermittent. I see the value of the "set and forget" automatic function. It's just not worth the $$ for my intermittent, emergency use.

 

[Horse-E]

Yeah, after seeing that in the order guide I’m less interested in that, the “activation fee” irks me and may just do the 9.6 upgrade and do a transfer switch. Does anyone know if the truck will output 220V?

You will have to buy it directly from Sunrun who is having it made for Ford. Available staring around March. Sunrun will also sell the other equipment if you want the intelligent home back-up, and SR vehicles will require an additional "activation" fee of unknown magnitude be paid.

 

[Horse-E]

That’s a lot of fish tank power haha. I have a similar need and if you reduce usage to a few vital circulation pumps and heater if needed… that’s a ton of runtime: ignoring conversion losses. 98kWh is enough to output say, 300W for 326 hours. If the automated setup gets too expensive (pro charger + inverter equipment from Sunrun + Activation fee) then I’d be happy just running extension cords in an emergency situation.

So is there anyway to automatically power your house with the pro SR? I’d love to get the ER battery but I’m not paying an extra +30k for it. I’m fine with the SR only being able to power the house for a shorter time than the ER.

Agreed, I’m more concerned if I’m sleeping or not at home while the truck is charging and we have a storm or an accident that knocks power out. I have a saltwater fish tank that would be nice to be backed up instead of the temporary backups I have now on it, plus the fridge/freezer is extra incentive.

 

[merobin]

Yeah, after seeing that in the order guide I’m less interested in that, the “activation fee” irks me and may just do the 9.6 upgrade and do a transfer switch. Does anyone know if the truck will output 220V?

240 volt outlet in the bed with the ProPower upgrade.

 

[Horse-E]

240 volt outlet in the bed with the ProPower upgrade.

Sweet!

 

[hturnerfamily]

You can always just use the 240 volt/30 amp outlet in the bed (with the 9.6kwh pro power option) ...

yes, but no real need to even go as far as any 240v 'extension cord', which is going to be pricey, hard to handle, and unneeded unless you are planning on running 240v appliances or devices - simply use extention cords into the home from the truck - for lamps, computers, wifi modem, fridge, etc. Unless you really have power outage a LOT, it's simply overkill to think about paying the massive cost of 'integrating' your truck into the home's power panel.

What I do like about the optional 9.6kwh output upgrade is the 240v outlet - now you have the option to not only provide power to a 240v RV, FifthWheel, etc, while camping, but you can provide EV charging to another vehicle, with an adapter and the Level 2 charging cable, but even a simple 120v aid, if nothing else.

 

[merobin]

yes, but no real need to even go as far as any 240v 'extension cord', which is going to be pricey, hard to handle, and unneeded unless you are planning on running 240v appliances or devices - simply use extention cords into the home from the truck - for lamps, computers, wifi modem, fridge, etc. Unless you really have power outage a LOT, it's simply overkill to think about paying the massive cost of 'integrating' your truck into the home's power panel.

What I do like about the optional 9.6kwh output upgrade is the 240v outlet - now you have the option to not only provide power to a 240v RV, FifthWheel, etc, while camping, but you can provide EV charging to another vehicle, with an adapter and the Level 2 charging cable, but even a simple 120v aid, if nothing else.

I need to run a well pump (240 volt), septic pump, in addition to fridge, lights. So just plugging into a transfer switch with selected circuits (240 and 120) makes sense.

 

[jefro]

Does anyone have experience with the ability of the current power output F150 on high demand loads like a compressor or pump or AC?

 

[hturnerfamily]

I don't think the power of the 9.6kw or 7.2kw output will have any issues with sudden loads, such as compressor startup for the a/c unit, or pumps, etc., as it is already designed to have a VERY HIGH power output when you stomp the pedal! What you may be referring to though, is the 'inrush' of amperage at startup, though, again, I don't think that the inrush lasts long enough to be any issue.

 

[jefro]

I agree you can stomp the pedal for 60-100Kw out at 400V or so.
That won't be available to the inverter(s)

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