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How much power does "camping mode" consume?

SpaceEVDriver

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TLDR: From the following data, there’s a chance that the truck spends a few hundred watts to even a half kW keeping itself on, but the two data points gathered here are not conclusive enough to say for certain what it’s doing.


Last year (May 2024) I needed to run our work computers, the fridge, and most of the house (but not HVAC) using the truck’s PPOB in the bed while our electrical service entrance panel was replaced.

This is the photo of just starting the day (07:35) with 94% displayed state of charge and 110.1 kWh to empty. The truck was drawing 930 watts from the HVB. The PPOB reported ~470 watts on the bed outlets, with < 90 watts draw in the cabin and the frunk inverter was powered off. It was 48 degrees F outside when we started, the battery was 55 degrees F, and the battery coolant temperature was 60 degrees F. I do not remember if the coolant pump was running, but the coolant heater was not, according to the CarScanner information here.

Ford F-150 Lightning How much power does "camping mode" consume? PXL_20240514_143550299



This is the photo of the end of the day (at 16:59). The truck was reporting 160 Watts from the 240 volt bed outlets with less than 90 watts in the second panel in the bed and less than 90 watts in the cabin. The truck was drawing 460 watts from the HVB. I didn’t get the ambient temperature in these photos, but the battery temperature was 64 degrees F and the coolant temperature was 70 degrees F. Again, the coolant heater was not running.

HVAC was turned off at both times.

At this time, I had not enabled “silent mode,” but I had turned off the headlights. The key fob had remained in the vehicle for the entire time.

We’d used 5 kWh in about 9.5 hours, for an average power draw of 526 watts. Our normal background house power draw, with all the various small things running, is about 700 watts, +- 300 watts. We did not have most of those small things running. We had two computers + monitors, the fridge, a chest freezer, a microwave for a few minutes at lunch, and various lights.

Ford F-150 Lightning How much power does "camping mode" consume? PXL_20240514_235931301
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Pacific.NW

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Just a thought… open the energy usage page; it will show the power used on that “trip” for things like accessories vs. temperature (keeping batteries seem).
 

GoodSam

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Just a thought… open the energy usage page; it will show the power used on that “trip” for things like accessories vs. temperature (keeping batteries seem).
Perplexity Ai shows, using some past f150lightningforum threads and others:
"Ford 2022 Lightning, Trip Energy screen shows Climate Use, Route, Accessories, Exterior Temperature categories.
Q: In detail, how does Ford assign equipment power use to each of these categories.
Ford assigns power use on the 2022 Lightning Trip Energy screen by breaking down energy consumption into Climate Use, Route (Driving), Accessories, and Exterior Temperature categories—each calculated using specific vehicle sensors and systems.[1][2][3][4]

Climate Use
This category measures the energy used by HVAC systems, including e-heat and A/C compressors, as well as interior heating like heated seats and steering wheel. The truck monitors the electrical load from these systems while maintaining cabin temperature.[4][1]

Route (Driving)
Energy under this label is assigned to traction motor power usage—that is, the energy required for driving and propulsion. It reflects what is needed to move the vehicle down the road, calculated from the main motors’ output and the distance covered.[1]

Accessories
Accessory consumption includes all power draw from the 12V system, such as screens, infotainment, device charging, processor operations, lighting (including headlights), climate fans, and advanced driver assistance systems (ADAS). The truck sums the current draw for each auxiliary system.[2][4][1]

Exterior Temperature
This category captures the energy spent on thermal management of the battery, especially cooling or heating to keep the battery near optimal “room temperature” (mid 60s–70s Fahrenheit). Power use varies with outside temperatures, as more energy is required to heat or cool the pack in extreme conditions.[3]

How Ford Calculates and Assigns Usage
Each system is monitored using real-time current and load sensing. Energy used by the selected functions is summed over the trip and classified based on which subsystem drew the electricity. Climate use is measured from HVAC loads, accessories from 12V loads, and exterior temperature from battery preconditioning or thermal system loads. These are displayed as absolute or percentage values on the Trip Energy screen for driver insight.[5][2][3][4][1]

In summary: Ford’s energy use assignment is based on direct measurement of subsystem power draw—HVAC, propulsion, auxiliary 12V loads, and battery thermal management—aggregated and presented to let drivers understand in detail where and how each kWh is spent during every trip.[2][3][4][1]

1- 11/2/2022 @sotek2345 -https://www.f150lightningforum.com/...ak-down-of-definitions-on-usage-screen.12897/
2- 8/4/2022 @sotek2345 -https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/new-“trip-energy”-screen-also-what’s-“accessories”-and-“ext-temp”.11545/
3-https://www.cleantrucking.com/batte...with-ford-f150-lightning-range-recalculations
4-
5-https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6OPVHENJfQ
6-https://www.cars.com/articles/how-the-2022-ford-f-150-lightning-can-power-your-home-for-days-446524/
7-https://www.[banned site]/threads/trip-energy-usage.1126/
8-
9-https://www.zerofy.net/2022/09/30/F150-Lightning-EV-of-the-month.html
10-
"
 

RipInPepz

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I’ve camped a lot with the Lightning. Every camping trip I'm always running a 60 liter dual-zone fridge / freezer (averages 23 W power draw), cooking on an induction cooktop (1500 W), boiling water in an electric kettle (1500 W), etc.

With a few hundred watts of solar and a 5 kWh auxiliary battery running an L1 charger as well as the fridge, etc, I leave the campsite having gained charge, not lost it.

I've never seen anywhere near as much as 400 W being used by PPOB on its own. Usually it consumes less than 90 W.

I have enabled the "silent" mode, toggle which disables nearly all lights and beeping from the truck. I also keep the key fob far enough away from the truck that there's no accidental communication.

My guess is there's something missing from your record/memory. Did you leave the HVAC, steering wheel, seat heaters, or cabin fan on? Did you have some other power-using device plugged in? Did you keep the key fob near enough so that the truck was regularly responding to it?
“With a few hundred watts of solar and a 5 kWh auxiliary battery”

Sounds awesome. Can you link the solar panels and battery?
 

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SpaceEVDriver

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“With a few hundred watts of solar and a 5 kWh auxiliary battery”

Sounds awesome. Can you link the solar panels and battery?
Power station:
https://us.oukitel.com/products/oukitel-p5000-portable-power-station

I just buy generic, cheap 200 W framed panels.

There are some things I’m not super happy with on the Oukitel power station: It isn’t easily expandable. There have only been a couple of times that mattered, so it’s not a huge deal. And it doesn’t have a 50A 240V AC outlet. It’s limited to 30A 120V, which means the L1 charger is limited to 16A 120V, but the Lightning only allows 12A 120V. Next time I would go for a 240V, 50A option.
 

NCevGuyF150

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I put the quotes in the title because of course, Ford has failed to deliver such a (seemingly) simple option.

I just got back from an overnight camping trip, and was shocked at how much juice I lost running only a small powered cooler.

Truck left "on", lights off, climate control off and center display set to "quiet mode." Temps were in the 40s-50s at night.

SOC went from 60% to 54% over about 18 hours - that's almost 8 kWh!!!

The entire time I was using the PPOB, there was a subtle whine / fan noise coming from the frunk area.

The cooler is, admittedly, old. It's a Coleman, probably about 10 years old, and it's designed to run off 12V - but it comes with a 120V adapter. There is no power info on the cooler itself, but the adaptor states its max input is 120V 1.4 amp

So if my math is right, even if the cooler were running at _max_ for the 18 hours, that would still only be ~ 3kWh - and given the outside temps, there is no way the cooler was running that much.

Does this power "waste" match what everyone else is experiencing? Could this just be horrible inefficiency from converting the 120V PPOB to the 12V the cooler needed? I wouldn't THINK so, given the max power input of the 12V converter, but I'm trying to think of all possibilities.

I did a little test last night of leaving the truck "on" overnight without a load on the PPOB, but of course the PPOB shut down (no load) and I forgot to turn off the truck's shutdown timer :blush:
I Suppose that some of that 8 kW may have been consumed by charging the 12 V battery in the truck
 

MidAtlanticLightningClub

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I put the quotes in the title because of course, Ford has failed to deliver such a (seemingly) simple option.

I just got back from an overnight camping trip, and was shocked at how much juice I lost running only a small powered cooler.

Truck left "on", lights off, climate control off and center display set to "quiet mode." Temps were in the 40s-50s at night.

SOC went from 60% to 54% over about 18 hours - that's almost 8 kWh!!!

The entire time I was using the PPOB, there was a subtle whine / fan noise coming from the frunk area.

The cooler is, admittedly, old. It's a Coleman, probably about 10 years old, and it's designed to run off 12V - but it comes with a 120V adapter. There is no power info on the cooler itself, but the adaptor states its max input is 120V 1.4 amp

So if my math is right, even if the cooler were running at _max_ for the 18 hours, that would still only be ~ 3kWh - and given the outside temps, there is no way the cooler was running that much.

Does this power "waste" match what everyone else is experiencing? Could this just be horrible inefficiency from converting the 120V PPOB to the 12V the cooler needed? I wouldn't THINK so, given the max power input of the 12V converter, but I'm trying to think of all possibilities.

I did a little test last night of leaving the truck "on" overnight without a load on the PPOB, but of course the PPOB shut down (no load) and I forgot to turn off the truck's shutdown timer :blush:
This is fairly normal. When running a very light load, most of your power will go to running the inverter. Inverters are notorious energy hogs in camping trailers or boats. The best option is to avoid running them and stick with 12v appliances. I would definitely run the cooler straight off 12v. You are inefficiently converting 380v to 120v, then inefficiently converting 120v to 12v. Most of your power is going to waste losses. It's about as inefficient as running a gas engine on idle to run your cooler.

Your next best option would be a small power bank capable of running 120v for the cooler. That way you would run the inverter for a shorter time to charge the power bank back up.

No, I was using the bed outlets

Other people's comments about the battery tempterature are interesting - and a possible source of lost power? It got into the mid 40s overnight, so if the truck was using juice to keep the battery in temp range??? I have no idea how much power that would take, but could account for it.
This is the other issue. The truck has two inverters, a 2.4kW front inverter for the cabin and frunk and a 7.2kW bed inverter. Bigger inverters waste more energy than smaller inverters.

TLDR: From the following data, there’s a chance that the truck spends a few hundred watts to even a half kW keeping itself on,
Absolutely correct.
 

SpacemanSpiff

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After a long trip, especially if it includes dc fast charging, my BMS will adjust the reported state of charge up or down by a percent or two overnight.

Are we sure we're looking at true power consumption, vs. some consumption + a BMS adjustment?
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