Oh, I agree, I was just surprised that it recognized it. I'm going to double check my settings in forscan and see if the option popus up for the preconditioning heated steering. At least that would tell me if its working or not (as long as it gets cold enough overnight)
I'd check the thread on adding adaptive cruise. It has all the info to turn it on. Is guess you'll get all sorts of errors if you try to turn it on without all the hardware in place.
Thanks for the detailed write up! I swapped my 23 Pro to a leather heated steering wheel early on, and planned to do the additional steps to make the heat work. Haven’t gotten around to it yet. This may be the push I need. Thanks!Just finished doing this mod on my 23 Pro. Very happy with the result. For anybody looking to do this, here is a quick summary of useful info:
- You can't just replace the clock spring. You likely need a whole new SCCM (steering column control module). This is because the stock Pro SCCM does not have connectors for the HSW power wires on the back.
- Most posts that I read pointed to part # ML3Z-3F791-BB for the SCCM. This part is very expensive, close to $300. After digging deeper I found that part # PL3Z-3F791-AB also works and is only $50 (bought mine on Tasca). In fact this one is even better because it doesn't come with the power tilt/slide buttons. So, it was a clean swap. As far as I can tell, this is exactly the same as my stock SCCM with the added HSW power terminals in the back and HSW-compatible clock spring.
- Other main parts needed are ML3Z-3600-RA (steering wheel), W721079-S437 (steering wheel bolt), WPT-404 (wire harness for power), two lengths of 12-AWG stranded wire (I used about 8 ft per) a crimp connector for the BCM terminal (I bought pre-crimped harness EU2Z-14474-AB, but you can save $20 if you buy the crimp connector on Mouser and crimp it yourself), a 1/4" ring terminal for ground wire, and some butt crimp connectors. All in all I spent a little over $300.
- For most of the work I followed this video. The only difference is that I made my own harness using the components listed above. I think these guys sell a pre-made harness for like $100 bucks.
- I did not replace the HVAC module. Instead, I enabled a soft button using FORScan. As others have noted, having this soft button requires having a different SYNC layout. Since I mostly use Android Auto, this change does not bother me (see image below). The main difference is that you no longer have the menu options on the bottom. Instead, you have to tap the home icon (top left) and that brings you to some home screen from which you can navigate to "settings" "features", etc. It's definitely a bit clunkier, but I got used to it quickly. That climate bar at the bottom allows you to manually turn HSW on/off.
- If you don't enable this climate bar option and keep the original SYNC layout, the HSW will come on automatically, but only when it's less than 35 degrees or so outside (I don't know the exact threshold). I like having the ability to turn in on when it's in the 40s.
- Below is the full list of FORScan changes that I made. The value changes (column F) are specific to my truck. Using Livnitup's FORSCan spreadsheet, I compared each desired setting value to the the existing corresponding AsBuilt value in my truck. It takes some time but gives you confidence that you're not just shooting in the dark.
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Good luck! I had been on the same boat for a while. I'm so glad I did it. I spent a lot of time planning, but the actual work went pretty quickly. Running the wires to the BCM is definitely the most time consuming part. All in all, the whole thing took probably under 3 hours. I also would recommend buying a set of these to replace the ones you will definitely break when removing trim pieces
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