New - Anker F3800 Plus with 240v Passthrough Generator Input

[mcot222]

Anker Solix has updated their F3800 battery with a 240volt generator input with passthrough.



Does anyone know if this generator input would work with the Lightnings 240v output?

If so this might be the perfect solution for someone that wants to power their house via a a normal panel interlock and generator inlet. Lightning -> Anker -> House.

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[Zprime29]

Depends on what it's expecting for the generator input. I'd wager we still need to handle the floating neutral thing (obviously not an electrician). Similar to the EcoFlow solution, I think we would need to plug into a transfer switch that disconnects the neutral, and then feed the output of that into the unit. Just a guess though, I'm interested to see what more knowledgeable folk have to say.

 

[richguy82]

I don’t see why you couldn’t charge the Anker with the truck with the proper cable. That said, the Anker is almost redundant in the scenario you are suggesting. You are better off plugging the truck directly into your sub panel/manual transfer switch (which you would need regardless). I can tell you I have a manual transfer switch, but it’s only for 120V circuits for an emergency to power essentials like fridges. It plugs into a 240v twist lock (but again, only 120V circuits). I had the ground fault loop issue, but after a discussion with my electrician we determined the ground was not needed as all of the circuits themselves are GFCI protected and the truck isn’t a true ground anyway. I have a handmade cable where I just removed the ground from the pin. Works perfectly now.

 

[Bigisland Guy]

I have 2 of the first generation Anker F3800s from its kickstarter days. I used the 120v inputs at 1800w and was able to charge one pack at a time in about 3 hours. I was never able to charge both packs 1800w at the same time since the output on the truck was 2400 w. In my experience one pack at 6000w is not enough back up power so it's better to get two units for 12000 w and the power controller. If you opt this direction do your research on the Anker forums.

 

[richguy82]

I don’t see why you couldn’t charge the Anker with the truck with the proper cable. That said, the Anker is almost redundant in the scenario you are suggesting. You are better off plugging the truck directly into your sub panel/manual transfer switch (which you would need regardless). I can tell you I have a manual transfer switch, but it’s only for 120V circuits for an emergency to power essentials like fridges. It plugs into a 240v twist lock (but again, only 120V circuits). I had the ground fault loop issue, but after a discussion with my electrician we determined the ground was not needed as all of the circuits themselves are GFCI protected and the truck isn’t a true ground anyway. I have a handmade cable where I just removed the ground from the pin. Works perfectly now.

I should specify I have the ProPower with 240v plug. It occurred to me that may not be the case for many.

 

[mcot222]

I don’t see why you couldn’t charge the Anker with the truck with the proper cable. That said, the Anker is almost redundant in the scenario you are suggesting. You are better off plugging the truck directly into your sub panel/manual transfer switch (which you would need regardless). I can tell you I have a manual transfer switch, but it’s only for 120V circuits for an emergency to power essentials like fridges. It plugs into a 240v twist lock (but again, only 120V circuits). I had the ground fault loop issue, but after a discussion with my electrician we determined the ground was not needed as all of the circuits themselves are GFCI protected and the truck isn’t a true ground anyway. I have a handmade cable where I just removed the ground from the pin. Works perfectly now.

I dont have any transfer switches. Just a generator inlet and an interlock kit in the panel to isolate and power all house loads.

Yes you can remove the ground but it’s not code.

The point of the post is to see if this solution works (basically does the anker f3800p do neutral switching) for the generator input.

We already know the 240v output on the Anker works as expected and acts as a floating neutral 240v source compatible with generator inlet/interlock setup.

 

[timn2022]

I tested this over the weekend. The generator input to the F3800P works from the Lightning. I was able to charge the battery from the truck with no problems, at 240v. However, the setup originally proposed (which I really hoped would work too), does not work for a couple reasons.

• The generator to battery adapter uses the same port as the battery to house adapter, so you physically can't have the battery connected to the truck and to the house at the same time. Big bummer.
• Because the port is the same, however, you can connect the truck to the home power panel via the generator adapter. The system is designed to take the output from a generator and push it directly to the house via the HPP. However, the ground issue comes into effect here and the truck shuts it down.

So, no go. I think you could have two F3800Ps and charge one while the other is in use, then swap, but that would be inconvenient and technically you're supposed to turn off the HPP before connecting/disconnecting anything, which kills all the backup circuits. Not ideal. You may be able to charge one battery via 120v from the truck while the other is being used for backup without disconnecting anything, but depending on your load it may not charge fast enough anyway. I don't think you can charge via 120 while it is supplying to the house.

 

[mdflyer]

I tested this over the weekend. The generator input to the F3800P works from the Lightning. I was able to charge the battery from the truck with no problems, at 240v. However, the setup originally proposed (which I really hoped would work too), does not work for a couple reasons.

• The generator to battery adapter uses the same port as the battery to house adapter, so you physically can't have the battery connected to the truck and to the house at the same time. Big bummer.
• Because the port is the same, however, you can connect the truck to the home power panel via the generator adapter. The system is designed to take the output from a generator and push it directly to the house via the HPP. However, the ground issue comes into effect here and the truck shuts it down.

So, no go. I think you could have two F3800Ps and charge one while the other is in use, then swap, but that would be inconvenient and technically you're supposed to turn off the HPP before connecting/disconnecting anything, which kills all the backup circuits. Not ideal. You may be able to charge one battery via 120v from the truck while the other is being used for backup without disconnecting anything, but depending on your load it may not charge fast enough anyway. I don't think you can charge via 120 while it is supplying to the house.

Instead of using the HPP, could you use either the 30 or 50 amp ports for output?

Would require the setup OP has, but according to Anker’s support, it should work if you’re using the Lightning -> F3800+ (generator port) -> generator inlet.

 

[Webbo85]

I don’t see why you couldn’t charge the Anker with the truck with the proper cable. That said, the Anker is almost redundant in the scenario you are suggesting. You are better off plugging the truck directly into your sub panel/manual transfer switch (which you would need regardless). I can tell you I have a manual transfer switch, but it’s only for 120V circuits for an emergency to power essentials like fridges. It plugs into a 240v twist lock (but again, only 120V circuits). I had the ground fault loop issue, but after a discussion with my electrician we determined the ground was not needed as all of the circuits themselves are GFCI protected and the truck isn’t a true ground anyway. I have a handmade cable where I just removed the ground from the pin. Works perfectly now.

I can confirm this works. I had a 6 foot cable made where the ground isn't connected and it works now with my old transfer switch. I lost power this weekend and was able to confirm operation, as before I would get the ground fault on the truck.

 

[timn2022]

Instead of using the HPP, could you use either the 30 or 50 amp ports for output?

Would require the setup OP has, but according to Anker’s support, it should work if you’re using the Lightning -> F3800+ (generator port) -> generator inlet.

This would make sense but I can't find any documentation on how to use the generator inlet (not the HPP connector) or any cables that would connect to it. Maybe a future product offering or I'm just missing something, but the generator input adapter does not fit that port.

 

[Ted23Lightning]

Has anyone used this to charge their Lightning? Idk when I would use this, but figured I’d ask.

 

[Bigisland Guy]

Yes, but it only gives 3kw to lightning which equals about 6 miles.

 

[Ted23Lightning]

Yes, but it only gives 3kw to lightning which equals about 6 miles.

Ah okay, thank u ?

 

[ericpullen]

Just purchased a F3800 Plus after it dropped down to $2799 this weekend (plus I'll get the 30% tax credit before it expires). I have a unique setup, but I think this is going to work well for what we need.

• I have 400A incoming service (with outside disconnect), which is split into 2 - 200A panels
• Both 200A panels have generator interlocks.
• Panel A has all of the primary loads (lights, fridge, etc) and has the plug run all the way to where I can use the truck.
• Panel B currently has the AC/HP, water heater, etc and does have a interlock on the other side of the house that I could use with a generator.

We have had multi-day outages, but I never got a generator for that second panel. My plan now is to re-wire Panel A so it has an indoor inlet (which I will use with the new F3800 Plus). I can plug it in quickly and not have to go outside like I do now (detached garage). Then, on the outside of the house I'll move the existing interlock inlet to Panel B so I can use the truck to run the AC for periods of time if I want. Then, I'll have a new 30A "extension" installed next to that current generator inlet so I can use it to run to the F3800 Plus for charging it up.

Now I can leave the house on the F3800, run out to recharge the truck if needed, and never loose power. I also have the ability now to run the AC off the truck if necessary.

Once I get it all setup, I'll make a new post showing how it works (assuming it all goes to plan).

 

[Bigisland Guy]

Good idea, consider integrating the Anker Controller in your set up. Our set up works well because the Anker controller software modes of time of use and backup mode settings. It's a DIY system that has potential although its not a perfect solution for everone. Also check out the Anker F3800 forum group on Facebook.

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