Do these 12v battery issues exist in the 2025 model?

[chl]

Anybody try a charger with a Desulfation mode to resurrect one of these factory batteries back to proper SOC range?

My understanding is battery desulfation will work to some degree if the sulfation hasn't gotten too bad. But it is not going to make the battery like it was brand new again.

It may or may not be enough to restore it to the level needed.

Someone could try it and see what the result is.

Be sure to disconnect the battery from the truck before you begin, the desulfation process could damage sensitive electronics as I understand it.

I once tried the battery repair mode on an old gel type battery that came with my gas generator that had been sitting for a long time unused in a shed with no electricity, but no go. I think it had probably dried out.

Using a battery maintainer is the way to go once you get a new battery, to keep it healthy longer.

An ounce of prevention as they say!

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[StevenC56]

Ordered and received a Noco 5. Going to try it and see if I can improve the battery health enough to run the update. Should I reset the bms after I reconnect the battery cables after running the desulfication process on the Noco 5?

 

[chl]

Ordered and received a Noco 5. Going to try it and see if I can improve the battery health enough to run the update. Should I reset the bms after I reconnect the battery cables after running the desulfication process on the Noco 5?

Yes.
---
Start Accessory mode
flash high beams 5 times
step on brake pedal 3 times
red battery icon on dash should flash 3 times
---

Or before that, if you can after you run the desulfication process, let it settle for at least 1/2 hour, then test the battery if you have a battery tester. It's a 35Ah battery, with a cold cranking amps (CCA) of 380 for your tester.

Curious to see how it turns out!

 

[StevenC56]

Yes.
---
Start Accessory mode
flash high beams 5 times
step on brake pedal 3 times
red battery icon on dash should flash 3 times
---

Or before that, if you can after you run the desulfication process, let it settle for at least 1/2 hour, then test the battery if you have a battery tester. It's a 35Ah battery, with a cold cranking amps (CCA) of 380 for your tester.

Curious to see how it turns out!

I don't have a battery tester, only a volt meter. If the OTA software installs, then the procedure nursed the battery back into the normal range. If not, then the quarterback is toast.

 

[StevenC56]

I ran the repair charge with the Noco 5. Battery voltage was 12.98V after the procedure, but the update still postponed when I ran it so I don't think it's going to take with this battery. I was unable to reset the BMS. I tried the procedure several times and never got the battery light to flash and go out. I pushed the start button without stepping on the brake, did the high beam flash 5 times and stepped on the brake 3 times. The battery light stays on solid the whole time and never flashes.

 

[chl]

I ran the repair charge with the Noco 5. Battery voltage was 12.98V after the procedure, but the update still postponed when I ran it so I don't think it's going to take with this battery. I was unable to reset the BMS. I tried the procedure several times and never got the battery light to flash and go out. I pushed the start button without stepping on the brake, did the high beam flash 5 times and stepped on the brake 3 times. The battery light stays on solid the whole time and never flashes.

Yes, to properly reset, I believe there is a threshold battery level needed, so another sign of needing a new battery I suspect.

 

[Ragman]

YES
Battery swelling too
Check all connections on the battery. I mean ALL connections.
i found them loose and somewhat oxidized. Check under the BMS on the negative terminal. Mine was not tight and could hear a hissing sound like a loose connection. I cleaned the oxidation off the contact areas and used dielectric grease (silicone) on all the connections and made all the connections tight.
I bought a NAPA battery. ( there are only 2 manufacturers of this battery, one with the waffled sides like Ford, etc or flat sides like the NAPA. Don’t forget to reset the BMS.
And a 5 amp CTEK battery maintainer.

I don't get the battery swelling part - or freezing - maybe its swelling we are getting and I'm assuming it's freezing.

Gone thru 8 batteries so far across three trucks - Ford replaced 1st one under warranty then said "no warranty" on a warranty battery and made us buy the thirds (two different trucks).

Best part the last one the 12v died outside the dealership waiting for service.

There is a serious issue either undersized or design wise - been tempted to upsize there was a thread years ago on Mach-E where the holes match for larger battery.

 

[mr.Magoo]

"Charging Voltage: 14.4V – 14.8V (while the alternator is running)"

You said/quoted it yourself ?

All I'm saying is that AGM batteries call for a higher (than 13.5V) voltage during charging if you read any AGM battery specification out there.

After three years of logging (every 15s to a database) I have not seen a scenario where the truck maintains 13.5V unless the battery is considered "full" and now recently where it somehow does it while the truck is "parked".

I can't answer to your specific case and what you base your SOC and voltage on if it's OBD data or an external monitor that guesstimates SoC based on voltage (not as accurrate as current/coulomb).

 

[RLXXI]

You said/quoted it yourself ?

All I'm saying is that AGM batteries call for a higher (than 13.5V) voltage during charging if you read any AGM battery specification out there.

After three years of logging (every 15s to a database) I have not seen a scenario where the truck maintains 13.5V unless the battery is considered "full" and now recently where it somehow does it while the truck is "parked".

I can't answer to your specific case and what you base your SOC and voltage on if it's OBD data or an external monitor that guesstimates SoC based on voltage (not as accurrate as current/coulomb).

That number is arbitrary to this type of usage, that is for a vehicle with an (Alternator) not a dc-dc converter.

Go back and re-read the post and what are you talking about SOC? I never said one word about that unbelievably inaccurate way to determine battery health. When I say 100%, I'm going by the voltage not soc.

I also base my posting on 40+ years a pro auto tech, I work with 12v systems daily.

 

[mr.Magoo]

That number is arbitrary to this type of usage, that is for a vehicle with an (Alternator) not a dc-dc converter.

I also base my posting on 40+ years a pro auto tech, I work with 12v systems daily.

I honestly don't think a battery cares if voltage/current comes from an alternator+rectifier or a DC/DC converter, but who am I to argue with an expert with 40+ years in the business.

 

[RLXXI]

I honestly don't think a battery cares if voltage/current comes from an alternator+rectifier or a DC/DC converter, but who am I to argue with an expert with 40+ years in the business.

One last try before I walk away.

"The nominal voltage of a 12V AGM automotive battery is 12.6V.
While labeled as "12-volt," this number represents the standard category rather than the precise charge. A fully charged AGM battery typically rests between 12.6V and 12.8V.
Key Voltage States
Fully Charged: 12.7V – 12.8V
75% Charge: ~12.4V
50% Charge (Discharged): ~12.2V

We're not discussing what's charging the battery, JUST the battery.

 

[StevenC56]

One last try before I walk away.

"The nominal voltage of a 12V AGM automotive battery is 12.6V.
While labeled as "12-volt," this number represents the standard category rather than the precise charge. A fully charged AGM battery typically rests between 12.6V and 12.8V.
Key Voltage States
Fully Charged: 12.7V – 12.8V
75% Charge: ~12.4V
50% Charge (Discharged): ~12.2V

We're not discussing what's charging the battery, JUST the battery.

So answer me this: After I ran the repair procedure with the Noco 5 my battery measured 12.98 volts, yet the software update aborted due to inadequate battery charge.

 

[RLXXI]

So answer me this: After I ran the repair procedure with the Noco 5 my battery measured 12.98 volts, yet the software update aborted due to inadequate battery charge.

Don't know, I'm not trained on this specific technology. Perhaps @Ford Motor Company Brian can drop by as he works for Ford, I do not.

 

[mr.Magoo]

We're not discussing what's charging the battery, JUST the battery.

Don't have to drive it at all, sitting in your driveway running for an hour will charge it to 100% if it's still good.

If it's not charging why does it only take an hour to get to 100% fully charged?

Oh, sorry, I must have misunderstood your posts where you talked charging.

 

[PJnc284]

So answer me this: After I ran the repair procedure with the Noco 5 my battery measured 12.98 volts, yet the software update aborted due to inadequate battery charge.

Probably not good under load. The first image below was the drive to work, followed by 8 hours of level 2 charging and then the drive home. Truck prompted me for the PT### charge port update when I got home so kicked it off figuring the 12v said 98% in car scanner. You can see the big dip where it failed before it likely kicked the dc-dc inverter on to recharge. The next day I was, the Sirius XM update installed on the drive on and I was once again prompted to install the charge port update. This time I hooked up my power supply set at 14.1V like when I use FDRS and the update installed with no fuss. Took about 9 minutes.

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