Do these 12v battery issues exist in the 2025 model?

[StevenC56]

I ran the repair charge with the Noco 5. Battery voltage was 12.98V after the procedure, but the update still postponed when I ran it so I don't think it's going to take with this battery. I was unable to reset the BMS. I tried the procedure several times and never got the battery light to flash and go out. I pushed the start button without stepping on the brake, did the high beam flash 5 times and stepped on the brake 3 times. The battery light stays on solid the whole time and never flashes.

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[chl]

I ran the repair charge with the Noco 5. Battery voltage was 12.98V after the procedure, but the update still postponed when I ran it so I don't think it's going to take with this battery. I was unable to reset the BMS. I tried the procedure several times and never got the battery light to flash and go out. I pushed the start button without stepping on the brake, did the high beam flash 5 times and stepped on the brake 3 times. The battery light stays on solid the whole time and never flashes.

Yes, to properly reset, I believe there is a threshold battery level needed, so another sign of needing a new battery I suspect.

 

[Ragman]

YES
Battery swelling too
Check all connections on the battery. I mean ALL connections.
i found them loose and somewhat oxidized. Check under the BMS on the negative terminal. Mine was not tight and could hear a hissing sound like a loose connection. I cleaned the oxidation off the contact areas and used dielectric grease (silicone) on all the connections and made all the connections tight.
I bought a NAPA battery. ( there are only 2 manufacturers of this battery, one with the waffled sides like Ford, etc or flat sides like the NAPA. Don’t forget to reset the BMS.
And a 5 amp CTEK battery maintainer.

I don't get the battery swelling part - or freezing - maybe its swelling we are getting and I'm assuming it's freezing.

Gone thru 8 batteries so far across three trucks - Ford replaced 1st one under warranty then said "no warranty" on a warranty battery and made us buy the thirds (two different trucks).

Best part the last one the 12v died outside the dealership waiting for service.

There is a serious issue either undersized or design wise - been tempted to upsize there was a thread years ago on Mach-E where the holes match for larger battery.

 

[mr.Magoo]

"Charging Voltage: 14.4V – 14.8V (while the alternator is running)"

You said/quoted it yourself ?

All I'm saying is that AGM batteries call for a higher (than 13.5V) voltage during charging if you read any AGM battery specification out there.

After three years of logging (every 15s to a database) I have not seen a scenario where the truck maintains 13.5V unless the battery is considered "full" and now recently where it somehow does it while the truck is "parked".

I can't answer to your specific case and what you base your SOC and voltage on if it's OBD data or an external monitor that guesstimates SoC based on voltage (not as accurrate as current/coulomb).

 

[mr.Magoo]

That number is arbitrary to this type of usage, that is for a vehicle with an (Alternator) not a dc-dc converter.

I also base my posting on 40+ years a pro auto tech, I work with 12v systems daily.

I honestly don't think a battery cares if voltage/current comes from an alternator+rectifier or a DC/DC converter, but who am I to argue with an expert with 40+ years in the business.

 

[StevenC56]

One last try before I walk away.

"The nominal voltage of a 12V AGM automotive battery is 12.6V.
While labeled as "12-volt," this number represents the standard category rather than the precise charge. A fully charged AGM battery typically rests between 12.6V and 12.8V.
Key Voltage States
Fully Charged: 12.7V – 12.8V
75% Charge: ~12.4V
50% Charge (Discharged): ~12.2V

We're not discussing what's charging the battery, JUST the battery.

So answer me this: After I ran the repair procedure with the Noco 5 my battery measured 12.98 volts, yet the software update aborted due to inadequate battery charge.

 

[mr.Magoo]

We're not discussing what's charging the battery, JUST the battery.

Don't have to drive it at all, sitting in your driveway running for an hour will charge it to 100% if it's still good.

If it's not charging why does it only take an hour to get to 100% fully charged?

Oh, sorry, I must have misunderstood your posts where you talked charging.

 

[PJnc284]

So answer me this: After I ran the repair procedure with the Noco 5 my battery measured 12.98 volts, yet the software update aborted due to inadequate battery charge.

Probably not good under load. The first image below was the drive to work, followed by 8 hours of level 2 charging and then the drive home. Truck prompted me for the PT### charge port update when I got home so kicked it off figuring the 12v said 98% in car scanner. You can see the big dip where it failed before it likely kicked the dc-dc inverter on to recharge. The next day I was, the Sirius XM update installed on the drive on and I was once again prompted to install the charge port update. This time I hooked up my power supply set at 14.1V like when I use FDRS and the update installed with no fuss. Took about 9 minutes.

 

[jkane101]

Do the same issues exist in the 2025 models? Dying early etc?

Yep, just had mine changed under warranty, it had a dead cell.

 

[chl]

I don't get the battery swelling part - or freezing - maybe its swelling we are getting and I'm assuming it's freezing.

Gone thru 8 batteries so far across three trucks - Ford replaced 1st one under warranty then said "no warranty" on a warranty battery and made us buy the thirds (two different trucks).

Best part the last one the 12v died outside the dealership waiting for service.

There is a serious issue either undersized or design wise - been tempted to upsize there was a thread years ago on Mach-E where the holes match for larger battery.

The issue is not really the size - it's the way the 12v BMS mismanages the battery.

The swelling is from heat due to very high charging currents - happens when the battery has gotten very discharged and then the truck charges it back up apparently.

Lots of threads about using a battery maintainer and how to add a charging wire to make life easier.

If you use a maintainer daily, the battery could last a really long time.
I have a battery on a maintainer since 2012, and it still measures a SOH of 80% - the threshold I wouldn't want to go much below though - 14 years.

 

[joshtb86]

The issue is not really the size - it's the way the 12v BMS mismanages the battery.

The swelling is from heat due to very high charging currents - happens when the battery has gotten very discharged and then the truck charges it back up apparently.

Lots of threads about using a battery maintainer and how to add a charging wire to make life easier.

If you use a maintainer daily, the battery could last a really long time.
I have a battery on a maintainer since 2012, and it still measures a SOH of 80% - the threshold I wouldn't want to go much below though - 14 years.

What battery?

Do you run the maintenance 247 when not driving

 

[chl]

So answer me this: After I ran the repair procedure with the Noco 5 my battery measured 12.98 volts, yet the software update aborted due to inadequate battery charge.

The terminal voltage I presume unloaded.
That voltage should put it at 90%+ SOC... but...
once a load is applied, a bad battery will crap out quickly - just can provide energy when the plates are too sulfated..

That's why the terminal voltage can be misleading - a battery tester would put it under a load and give a better reading on battery health.

Sorry the repair didn't work, must have been the battery was too far gone, worth a try, but such is life with the Ford F-150 Lightning 12v battery it seems.

 

[chl]

What battery?

Do you run the maintenance 247 when not driving

Yes.

It's the flooded battery that came with my 2012 Nissan Leaf bought in Dec 2011.
I had the battery drain when I went on a vacation in early 2012 and ever since then, it has been on a maintainer.

It is a bit larger, 45Ah vs 35Ah Lightning, and it is a flooded battery not an AGM - AGMs are supposed to last longer.

These are the battery details:

The OEM 12V auxiliary battery for the 2012 Nissan Leaf is a Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS) type, commonly specified as a 55B24L(S) or 46B24L/NS60L.

Capacity: 45Ah - 48Ah (45-48 Ampere-hours).
Voltage: 12 Volt.
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA): 350A - 454A.
Reserve Capacity (RC): 75 minutes.
Physical Size: 55B24L (JIS code), sometimes referred to as NS60L.
Terminal Location: L (Left-side negative).

Yes, always on the maintainer when at home in the garage not being driven.

 

[StevenC56]

Anybody notice that Ford's website is out of these batteries and a few online dealers show them as being discontinued? Maybe there's a new model battery coming out soon?

 

[chl]

Anybody notice that Ford's website is out of these batteries and a few online dealers show them as being discontinued? Maybe there's a new model battery coming out soon?

Funny but not funny they've run out, I guess it's not surprising with all the posts about bad behaving batteries lately.

They ought to give everyone a free battery maintainer with the replacement battery!

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