ECU module programming guide using FDRS

[Howard_Scott_Warshaw]

You’re an Independent/Operator.

Use the email address and password you created the subscription with. Do not use a “username”. They stopped accepting that login method in early 2024.

Thanks for the advise, but that opens up a standard Ford.com login window. I enter my credentials (not associated with the FDRS subscription) and FDRS crashes.

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[Mike G]

Thanks for the advise, but that opens up a standard Ford.com login window. I enter my credentials (not associated with the FDRS subscription) and FDRS crashes.

Okay I might not be tracking what you’re trying to do. Are you trying to login to FDRS or PTS or just the Motorcraft site?

 

[Howard_Scott_Warshaw]

From the FDRS program, trying to login. All previous tutorials I've read indicate I should select "Non Dealer/MotorCraft" however thats not an option in the dropdown menu. I have the attached options.

Selecting Independent Operator/Non Dealer and clicking Login opens a seperate window requesting my Ford.com login credentials. I enter them and FDRS soft crashes. I say "soft crashes" in that the FDRS window just disappers. Alt-Tab does not register it as a running program.

If I select Non Dealer/ETIS, then I'm prompted or a Username and password. Best guess is I enter the credentials from the site I purchased the license from. Nope. That don't work. FDRS glitches somehow and says I'm not connected to the internet (yes, I am).

Not sure where to go from there.

 

[Mike G]

Yeah, that tutorial hasn't been updated (I'm supposed to work with the Admin to sort that out but haven't gotten to it yet), and unlike the similar page on the Mach-E site, the one on this site can only be edited by the original poster.

You do need to login as an Independent Operator/Non-Dealer. That's the only way you'll get in.

Having said that, and because I don't know what you've configured so far, I'll ask if you've added the relevant servers to your Trusted Sites in Windows?

 

[Howard_Scott_Warshaw]

Yeah, that tutorial hasn't been updated (I'm supposed to work with the Admin to sort that out but haven't gotten to it yet), and unlike the similar page on the Mach-E site, the one on this site can only be edited by the original poster.

You do need to login as an Independent Operator/Non-Dealer. That's the only way you'll get in.

Having said that, and because I don't know what you've configured so far, I'll ask if you've added the relevant servers to your Trusted Sites in Windows?

Thanks for the tip. Added them as shown in your screenshot, but it didn't help anything.

In the FDRS interface, I select "Independent Operator/Non-Dealer", click Login. New screen is launched requesting my Ford.com credentials. Enter the credentials and I'm taken back to FDRS window which pops up a messge "Logging Into FDRS", then the program just closes. No error message, no indications of success or failure. It just closes.

EDIT. CTRL-ALT-DEL does show FDRS is running in the background, but I cant open that instance of the program. If I just manually restart FDRS I'm given a prompt suggesting it's already running, but I can't figure out how to re-open it.



I'm at a loss.

 

[Howard_Scott_Warshaw]

Damn, this software combo is janky AF. I basically just hammer-fisted my way though it. Changing passwords, unistall/reinstall, etc.

No idea why it just worked, but i selected "Non Dealer/ETIS, purposefully entered the wrong credentials, got denied (expected), then selected the correct "Independent Operator/Non-Dealer" entered my newly changed Ford.com password, and the stupid f'ing thing worked.

 

[Mike G]

Damn, this software combo is janky AF. I basically just hammer-fisted my way though it. Changing passwords, unistall/reinstall, etc.

No idea why it just worked, but i selected "Non Dealer/ETIS, purposefully entered the wrong credentials, got denied (expected), then selected the correct "Independent Operator/Non-Dealer" entered my newly changed Ford.com password, and the stupid f'ing thing worked.

And it will likely work fine from now on.

 

[Mike G]

So from the time you successfully logged on, you've got cached credentials for around 8 hrs or so (might be longer, like 10 hrs). So if you close FDRS for some reason and need to relaunch, it won't ask for login and password until that time expires. I've never really timed it, but it normally lasts the workday for me.

If you find your self doing a really long session, or you logged on very early in the morning and are still at it late in the afternoon, you could end up in the middle of doing some module update while FDRS is trying to get you to log in again. It will likely not accept your credentials no matter how many times you enter them until you've fully closed and then reopened the program to get back to work. Just so you know.

 

[Howard_Scott_Warshaw]

So from the time you successfully logged on, you've got cached credentials for around 8 hrs or so (might be longer, like 10 hrs). So if you close FDRS for some reason and need to relaunch, it won't ask for login and password until that time expires. I've never really timed it, but it normally lasts the workday for me.

If you find your self doing a really long session, or you logged on very early in the morning and are still at it late in the afternoon, you could end up in the middle of doing some module update while FDRS is trying to get you to log in again. It will likely not accept your credentials no matter how many times you enter them until you've fully closed and then reopened the program to get back to work. Just so you know.

EDIT.

Nevermind. Still f'd up. Back to the original problem and my previous hack doesnt work anymore.

On a similar note, has anyone had problems with the Mongoose cable? It won't activate through the OPUS tool, and it seems windows cant/wont download the appropriate drivers.

 

[B177y]

EDIT.

Nevermind. Still f'd up. Back to the original problem and my previous hack doesnt work anymore.

On a similar note, has anyone had problems with the Mongoose cable? It won't activate through the OPUS tool, and it seems windows cant/wont download the appropriate drivers.

If you don't mind putting your location in your profile, you may be able to get some help locally. There's a 0.000001% chance that we are neighbors and I can try to help, but at least there's a chance....

 

[Howard_Scott_Warshaw]

If you don't mind putting your location in your profile, you may be able to get some help locally. There's a 0.000001% chance that we are neighbors and I can try to help, but at least there's a chance....

Thanks for the support, however I'm in MA.

Thus far I've been able to get FDRS to work and I can hammerfist my way through the login credential screens and get to the vehicle interface screen. Now my Mongoose cable isn't working. I think it's a driver issue but can't be sure. I run through all the prescribed steps, download the OPUS driver/activation software, run it, but it can't find the cable.

Looks like I wasted $100 for the weekend.

 

[Mike G]

Thanks for the support, however I'm in MA.

Thus far I've been able to get FDRS to work and I can hammerfist my way through the login credential screens and get to the vehicle interface screen. Now my Mongoose cable isn't working. I think it's a driver issue but can't be sure. I run through all the prescribed steps, download the OPUS driver/activation software, run it, but it can't find the cable.

Looks like I wasted $100 for the weekend.

Call the helpdesk and they'll be able to see that you didn't get it to work, and maybe they'll give you an extension or something.

 

[Howard_Scott_Warshaw]

Call the helpdesk and they'll be able to see that you didn't get it to work, and maybe they'll give you an extension or something.

Thanks. I emailed back-n-forth with OPUS customer support this morning. They first have me update to the latest Microsoft .NET framework. After that didn't work I confirmed with them the device fails to activate on two different laptops, after which they suggested returning the unit to Amazon and getting a new one.

Perhaps related to the fact it might be a failed part, when plugging it in to either laptop I never got the typical "windows is configuring this device" popup notification.

 

[Mike G]

Thanks. I emailed back-n-forth with OPUS customer support this morning. They first have me update to the latest Microsoft .NET framework. After that didn't work I confirmed with them the device fails to activate on two different laptops, after which they suggested returning the unit to Amazon and getting a new one.

Perhaps related to the fact it might be a failed part, when plugging it in to either laptop I never got the typical "windows is configuring this device" popup notification.

Not saying this happened to you, but there was a report several years ago by somebody on one of the forums (ICE F-150? ) where they had bought a Mongoose from Amazon (they thought they had anyway) and it wasn't working....and they posted a picture of it finally after a lot of back and forth posts.....and it was a knock-off. So somebody had bought an actual Mongoose and also a knock-off, and then they did a "return" to Amazon on the Mongoose but substituted the cheap knock-off in the box instead. Amazon obviously put it back in stock, and this guy just happened to get the cheap knock-off in the OPUS box when he ordered his.

 

[Howard_Scott_Warshaw]

The sage continues to weekend #2. I got an new cable, returned the old, and watta you know, the new one works on the same laptop I was trying from before. Faulty cable I guess. Had all the proper branding and everything so I can't say it was fraud.

Now to today. I activate the cable, sign into FDRS and start the process. In the meantime I hookup my NOCO Genius10 (because that's what got the most recommendations) to the charge terminals and get started.

Clear some DTCs and the update process starts smoothly. Except for one hiccup. I see the LVB voltage dropping lower than expected. From 12.5 at the start, to 11, then to 10V during a few module updates.

I check the NOCO connections. Its on, set to charge an AGM battery, so all should be well right?

No, not right.

MY LVB dropped low enough to fail the update process, and now it's too low to even close in the HVB when I try to start the truck. F*cking great. I'm beting the LVB was handicapped prior to the process.

So now I sit here, petting the dog, drinking a brew, praying that stupid NOCO can revive the 12V high enough where I can start the truck and go buy a new LVB. I'm sure it's probably cooked.

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