Franklin battery system, V2L, via bed 240, same old ground fault issue, it would seem. Need help...

[Jodokk]

I bought a brand new Franklin aPower battery and aGate system.
I also opted for the Generator Module.

It's installed and awesome, but, the truck throws the ground fault error and to light on the outlet panel starts blinking making until I reset.
The truck 240 outlet HATES the hook up, and just trips every time.
Could it be the cord and/or adapter?

These...
And, this..

Connected to this...

I've read extensively on here to figure this out, but maybe it's just the cord situation?
Any ideas?
Thanks.

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[tearitupsports]

This is happening because both the truck and house are neutral bonded systems.
I reviewed with my electrician and removed the jumper ground wire from the inlet plug in the Reliance box. The box itself is grounded to the house system, but the inlet plug has no direct ground connection to the house now. It just relies on the truck ground system. I am not an electrician though, and my comments are for entertainment purposes only. This may or may not be approved depending on local code and who you consult with. I will say I have a near identical setup (just a different brand name) and it works perfectly.

 

[Maquis]

You need to take an ohm meter and figure out what that cord is doing to get from 4-wire to 3-wire. Chances are, both the N & G prongs go to the N on the 3-wire end. If so, that’s the problem.

 

[Jodokk]

Makes sense. Maybe just getting the right cord without the extra adapter may clear it up. I'll try that!
Thanks everyone!

 

[Maquis]

Makes sense. Maybe just getting the right cord without the extra adapter may clear it up. I'll try that!
Thanks everyone!

You still have to go from 4 to 3 wire. The 2 lines and neutral should be the only connections.

 

[tearitupsports]

You still have to go from 4 to 3 wire. The 2 lines and neutral should be the only connections.

I think on the Reliance PB50, the ground it on the outside shell of the connector rather than a pin. You can see it in the picture. I would check that the cable has that ground connection (which I am sure it does if it trips).

I still maintain that it is likely that the ground wire shown in this picture is still connected inside the box and causing the issue.

 

[v2h8484]

There is no 4-to-3 wire conversion happening between NEMA 14-50 and CS6375. The CS6375 has 4 wires where the ground terminal is a contact on the rim of the plug/receptacle.

 

[Danface]

This is happening because both the truck and house are neutral bonded systems.
I reviewed with my electrician and removed the jumper ground wire from the inlet plug in the Reliance box. The box itself is grounded to the house system, but the inlet plug has no direct ground connection to the house now. It just relies on the truck ground system. I am not an electrician though, and my comments are for entertainment purposes only. This may or may not be approved depending on local code and who you consult with. I will say I have a near identical setup (just a different brand name) and it works perfectly.

Did the same and haven't looked back. Note: don't touch you tongue to the generator input box just in case!

 

[The Weatherman]

This ^

 

[chl]

This is happening because both the truck and house are neutral bonded systems.
I reviewed with my electrician and removed the jumper ground wire from the inlet plug in the Reliance box. The box itself is grounded to the house system, but the inlet plug has no direct ground connection to the house now. It just relies on the truck ground system. I am not an electrician though, and my comments are for entertainment purposes only. This may or may not be approved depending on local code and who you consult with. I will say I have a near identical setup (just a different brand name) and it works perfectly.

Yes.
Think of the truck as any other bonded generator and follow the code as it applies to bonded generators - you will need a transfer switch that transfers the neutrals along with the hots, have a continuous ground throughout the system AND the Lightning must be earth grounded.

See this video that simplifies the code which can be difficult to follow for non-electricians (or even some of them) and electrical engineers (like me):

 

[chl]

Sorta on the topic of ProPower house hook-ups, I have a gas powered standby generator un-bonded and a transfer switch I have been using for the last decade during outages.

I want to use the Lightning so I bought a Generac 6853 transfer switch suitable for bonded generators, like the Lightning.

The thing is I did not want to completely unwire the other transfer switch, so this is a block diagram of what I came up with so I could have both transfer switches, no back-feeds, etc.

Essentially, the Generac feeds the old transfer switch from either the utility or the truck depending on the switch position, and the other transfer switch feeds the loads either the utility or truck out from the GEnerac switch OR form my old un-bonded generator depending on the switch position.

Easy peasy, lol.

 

[Danface]

Here's what my generator plug looks like, the ground from the panel is carefully taped to prevent touching the box and triggering the GFCI in the truck.

This would be illegal in Massachusetts for a permanently attached generator but not for an emergency generator.

The truck is providing GFCI

 

[Jodokk]

Here's what my generator plug looks like, the ground from the panel is carefully taped to prevent touching the box and triggering the GFCI in the truck.

This would be illegal in Massachusetts for a permanently attached generator but not for an emergency generator.

The truck is providing GFCI

I'll show the electrician all if these, and we'll get this thing sorted.
I really appreciate all of this information!

 

[tearitupsports]

Here's what my generator plug looks like, the ground from the panel is carefully taped to prevent touching the box and triggering the GFCI in the truck.

This would be illegal in Massachusetts for a permanently attached generator but not for an emergency generator.

The truck is providing GFCI

I did mine as shown in the marked up picture. I simply removed the ground wire jumper (circled in yellow) from the socket. I still left the other jumper that connects the front plate to the box. I then connected the home ground to the box ground (marked in green with arrow).
This allows the box to still be properly grounded to the house when there is no connection to a generator.
I placed the sticker on the outside saying that this has to be used with a bonded neutral generator.

 

[tearitupsports]

Sorta on the topic of ProPower house hook-ups, I have a gas powered standby generator un-bonded and a transfer switch I have been using for the last decade during outages.

I want to use the Lightning so I bought a Generac 6853 transfer switch suitable for bonded generators, like the Lightning.

The thing is I did not want to completely unwire the other transfer switch, so this is a block diagram of what I came up with so I could have both transfer switches, no back-feeds, etc.

Essentially, the Generac feeds the old transfer switch from either the utility or the truck depending on the switch position, and the other transfer switch feeds the loads either the utility or truck out from the GEnerac switch OR form my old un-bonded generator depending on the switch position.

Easy peasy, lol.

The main issue is that this is a hybrid battery/solar inverter and associated automatic transfer switch. There is no option for a switching neutral transfer. They are always going to be using the home's bonded neutral. The generator is feeding the transfer switch and battery inverter and isn't wired directly to the loads. Separately grounded systems is the only option.

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