FRUNK failure issue will not close or open w/ "Frunk Malfunction See Manual" message

[AZT9]

Permanent fix? Or just replaced with the same parts and possibly will fail again?

I was told that a “redesign” was in the works after they took my parts for investigation. No news yet. No further failures yet and we have had significant monsoonal weather this year in AZ. Fingers crossed.

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[BennyTheBeaver]

I was told that a “redesign” was in the works after they took my parts for investigation. No news yet. No further failures yet and we have had significant monsoonal weather this year in AZ. Fingers crossed.

Being from Oregon, this is a pretty high concern for me. Keep us posted if you hear anything

 

[jredondox]

Permanent fix? Or just replaced with the same parts and possibly will fail again?

Replacement for now. Ford is working on new design

 

[jredondox]

I was told that a “redesign” was in the works after they took my parts for investigation. No news yet. No further failures yet and we have had significant monsoonal weather this year in AZ. Fingers crossed.

You are correct

 

[Citizen0]

Update on the Frunk issue. I've had bad rain again a few times and the issue didn't repeat, but my local Ford dealership got in the replacement strut and I'm having it swapped out Thursday. They said they were going to do a "water intrusion test" and the Ford engineers at the mothership wanted pictures and results.

Even with the occasional hiccups (Sync losing the left channel and having to be rebooted, once didn't charge overnight, EA network getting stuck at 30kW charging rate during a road trip) I wouldn't give this truck up for anything. At nearly 9500 miles (since early July) and Sparky has easily been the best vehicle I've ever owned. From towing a trailer 300 miles to pulling a float in a parade to having movie night at a campground... it's just amazing. This is definitely the future.

Now if PAAK and Pet Mode would come down from the magical software entities in the sky it would be just about perfect!

 

[O’Majestic1’slightnigF150]

My apologies in advance for this long post. I’m going to kick the top off the ant pile and start the conversation again but first I’ll say, I love this forum and my truck. I’ve learned so much! I have another thread about using the passenger side fake charger door I’ve been discussing what to use the passenger side fender space for since you can remove the “cover” by opening the frunk and reaching in front of the strut and thru the fender. Anyway, I was finalizing my gadget* today and did some frunk testing. The manual frunk release on my (extended range) Platinum clears the primary latch but not the second and no amount of lifting can open. So today I opened the frunk using the inside button and disconnected the 12v battery to simulate a fully dead situation. Nothing worked. Nothing. Nada. Zip. Zilch. Could not close the frunk with fob or inside, outside buttons or PAAK. *I have hooked up a 5 foot long quick connect plug to the 12v cables. Ran the quick connect cable from outside via the removed passenger fake cover, thru the fender in front of the “fuse box” and over to the battery. I hooked the quick connect to jumper cables and on to my super duty and the Lightning lit up. Couple things to note, 1) after the truck powered up everything worked but as noted in this thread the Frunk had to be closed by hand and now functions normally, 2) the hard reboot did not cause any profile loss or settings changed but did significantly adjust the guess o meter from 225 miles to 312. I’m curious if after driving how quickly mileage will drop. I was charged up to 100% just in case. Took delivery 8/30 and have about 3200 miles. I need to take pictures of my gadget but here’s what I did. After removing the passenger side fake useless charge cover I added some powerful magnets glued to the cover and truck so the cover is removable now from the outside with frunk closed. I sprayed the inside of the fender cavity with 3 coats (1 can) of flex seal to give added strength to the wheel well material and now have the 5 foot quick connect and 25 foot jumper cables tucked nicely inside the fender. I guess I’ll take the truck in sometime to have the manual release adjusted but until then, I can pop the frunk electronically even if the 12v is dead using my gadget. Amazon, $99 Energizer 30’ jumper cables and extender, $10 worth of super strong magnets and gorilla glue.

 

[BennyTheBeaver]

My apologies in advance for this long post. I’m going to kick the top off the ant pile and start the conversation again but first I’ll say, I love this forum and my truck. I’ve learned so much! I have another thread about using the passenger side fake charger door I’ve been discussing what to use the passenger side fender space for since you can remove the “cover” by opening the frunk and reaching in front of the strut and thru the fender. Anyway, I was finalizing my gadget* today and did some frunk testing. The manual frunk release on my (extended range) Platinum clears the primary latch but not the second and no amount of lifting can open. So today I opened the frunk using the inside button and disconnected the 12v battery to simulate a fully dead situation. Nothing worked. Nothing. Nada. Zip. Zilch. Could not close the frunk with fob or inside, outside buttons or PAAK. *I have hooked up a 5 foot long quick connect plug to the 12v cables. Ran the quick connect cable from outside via the removed passenger fake cover, thru the fender in front of the “fuse box” and over to the battery. I hooked the quick connect to jumper cables and on to my super duty and the Lightning lit up. Couple things to note, 1) after the truck powered up everything worked but as noted in this thread the Frunk had to be closed by hand and now functions normally, 2) the hard reboot did not cause any profile loss or settings changed but did significantly adjust the guess o meter from 225 miles to 312. I’m curious if after driving how quickly mileage will drop. I was charged up to 100% just in case. Took delivery 8/30 and have about 3200 miles. I need to take pictures of my gadget but here’s what I did. After removing the passenger side fake useless charge cover I added some powerful magnets glued to the cover and truck so the cover is removable now from the outside with frunk closed. I sprayed the inside of the fender cavity with 3 coats (1 can) of flex seal to give added strength to the wheel well material and now have the 5 foot quick connect and 25 foot jumper cables tucked nicely inside the fender. I guess I’ll take the truck in sometime to have the manual release adjusted but until then, I can pop the frunk electronically even if the 12v is dead using my gadget. Amazon, $99 Energizer 30’ jumper cables and extender, $10 worth of super strong magnets and gorilla glue.

Looking forward to more details and pictures!

 

[rdr854]

Yup, my truck just started doing that today. It first acted up while at the dealer last week and they said it was a sensor on the driver’s side strut. Up and until today, it would open and I could close it manually. Now, it just pops to the first release and gave me a a service Frunk message. Ugh!

It is a May 22 build.

 

[AZT9]

Yup, my truck just started doing that today. It first acted up while at the dealer last week and they said it was a sensor on the driver’s side strut. Up and until today, it would open and I could close it manually. Now, it just pops to the first release and gave me a a service Frunk message. Ugh!

It is a May 22 build.

I was fortunate to be one of the first deliveries as well. Was told that ford engineers took all my old parts for analysis and a possible recall/fix. Luckily for me no further issues 1 years and 30k miles later hopefully they take care of you too

 

[rdr854]

I was fortunate to be one of the first deliveries as well. Was told that ford engineers took all my old parts for analysis and a possible recall/fix. Luckily for me no further issues 1 years and 30k miles later hopefully they take care of you too

Thanks. Do you remember what all did they end up replacing on your truck?

 

[AZT9]

Thanks. Do you remember what all did they end up replacing on your truck?

If I recall. They said it was water intrusion into one of the power strut connections which it strange I don’t get a lot of rain (AZ) and only had the truck a few weeks at that point. They also replaced the latch mechanism. I think I was told a slight hood misalignment was to blame too

 

[rdr854]

If I recall. They said it was water intrusion into one of the power strut connections which it strange I don’t get a lot of rain (AZ) and only had the truck a few weeks at that point. They also replaced the latch mechanism. I think I was told a slight hood misalignment was to blame too

Thank you. You have to remember that the truck went through leak testing as part of the manufacturing process and then sat outside in the Michigan weather until it shipped. In my case, that was approximately 5 to 6 weeks.

 

[rdr854]

Yup, my truck just started doing that today. It first acted up while at the dealer last week and they said it was a sensor on the driver’s side strut. Up and until today, it would open and I could close it manually. Now, it just pops to the first release and gave me a a service Frunk message. Ugh!

It is a May 22 build.

Since the Frunk can’t open, I wonder if there is a violation of FMVSS 401 since the interior power release likewise would not work if someone was trapped inside the Frunk (assuming it applies to light duty trucks such as the Lightning - which I think it should). FMVSS is codified at 49 CFR 571.401, which provides as follows:

§ 571.401 Standard No. 401; Interior trunk release.
S1. Purpose and scope. This standard establishes the requirement for providing a trunk release mechanism that makes it possible for a person trapped inside the trunk compartment of a passenger car to escape from the compartment.
S2. Application. This standard applies to passenger cars that have a trunk compartment. This standard does not apply to passenger cars with a back door.
S3. Definitions.
Back door means a door or door system on the back end of a passenger car through which cargo can be loaded or unloaded. The term includes the hinged back door on a hatchback or a station wagon.
Trunk compartment.
(a) Means a space that:
(1) Is intended to be used for carrying luggage or cargo,
(2) Is wholly separated from the occupant compartment of a passenger car by a permanently attached partition or by a fixed or fold-down seat back and/or partition,
(3) Has a trunk lid, and
(4) Is large enough so that the three-year-old child dummy described in Subpart C of Part 572 can be placed inside the trunk compartment, and the trunk lid can be closed and latched with all removable equipment furnished by the passenger car manufacturer stowed in accordance with label(s) on the passenger car or information in the passenger car owner's manual, or, if no information is provided, as located when the passenger car is delivered. (Note: For purposes of this standard, the Part 572 Subpart C test dummy need not be equipped with the accelerometers specified in § 572.21.)
(b) Does not include a sub-compartment within the trunk compartment.
Trunk lid means a moveable body panel that is not designed or intended as a passenger car entry point for passengers and that provides access from outside a passenger car to a trunk compartment. The term does not include a back door or the lid of a storage compartment located inside the passenger compartment of a passenger car.
S4. Requirements.
S4.1 Each passenger car with a trunk compartment must have an automatic or manual release mechanism inside the trunk compartment that unlatches the trunk lid. Each trunk release shall conform, at the manufacturer's option, to either S4.2(a) and S4.3, or S4.2(b) and S4.3. The manufacturer shall select the option by the time it certifies the vehicle and may not thereafter select a different option for the vehicle.
S4.2 (a) Each manual release mechanism installed pursuant to S4.1 of this standard must include a feature, like lighting or phosphorescence, that allows the release mechanism to be easily seen inside the closed trunk compartment.
(b) Each automatic release mechanism installed pursuant to S4.1 of this section must unlatch the trunk lid within 5 minutes of when the trunk lid is closed with a person inside the trunk compartment.
S4.3 (a) Except as provided in paragraph S4.3(b), actuation of the release mechanism required by S4.1 of this standard must completely release the trunk lid from all latching positions of the trunk lid latch.
(b)
(1) For passenger cars with a front trunk compartment that has a front opening trunk lid required to have a secondary latching position or latch system, actuation of the release mechanism required by paragraph S4.1 of this standard must result in the following:
(i) When the passenger car is stationary, the release mechanism must release the trunk lid from all latching positions or latch systems;
(ii) When the passenger car is moving forward at a speed less than 5 km/h, the release mechanism must release the trunk lid from the primary latching position or latch system, and may release the trunk lid from all latching positions or latch systems;
(iii) When the passenger car is moving forward at a speed of 5 km/h or greater, the release mechanism must release the trunk lid from the primary latching position or latch system, but must not release the trunk lid from the secondary latching position or latch system.
(2) The passenger cars described in paragraph S4.3(b)(1) are excluded from the requirements of this standard until September 1, 2002.

I plan to submit a complaint to NHTSA. I recommend that anyone else who has had this failure do the same.

 

[64Bombowa]

I just went through some grief with my frunk. It turns out there was a steel coffee mug preventing the frunk from opening and closing. I ended up having someone pull the manual release while I forced the hood up, the lock wouldn't release. I then got a flat piece of metal and fished in and aropund. and it went up and down just fine. My lessons is, no loose things in the franks and I'll grab so me totes to store stuff. total waste of time. Worst part was the alarm for it, a bit overkill on behalf of Ford.

 

[Rickgk]

My apologies in advance for this long post. I’m going to kick the top off the ant pile and start the conversation again but first I’ll say, I love this forum and my truck. I’ve learned so much! I have another thread about using the passenger side fake charger door I’ve been discussing what to use the passenger side fender space for since you can remove the “cover” by opening the frunk and reaching in front of the strut and thru the fender. Anyway, I was finalizing my gadget* today and did some frunk testing. The manual frunk release on my (extended range) Platinum clears the primary latch but not the second and no amount of lifting can open. So today I opened the frunk using the inside button and disconnected the 12v battery to simulate a fully dead situation. Nothing worked. Nothing. Nada. Zip. Zilch. Could not close the frunk with fob or inside, outside buttons or PAAK. *I have hooked up a 5 foot long quick connect plug to the 12v cables. Ran the quick connect cable from outside via the removed passenger fake cover, thru the fender in front of the “fuse box” and over to the battery. I hooked the quick connect to jumper cables and on to my super duty and the Lightning lit up. Couple things to note, 1) after the truck powered up everything worked but as noted in this thread the Frunk had to be closed by hand and now functions normally, 2) the hard reboot did not cause any profile loss or settings changed but did significantly adjust the guess o meter from 225 miles to 312. I’m curious if after driving how quickly mileage will drop. I was charged up to 100% just in case. Took delivery 8/30 and have about 3200 miles. I need to take pictures of my gadget but here’s what I did. After removing the passenger side fake useless charge cover I added some powerful magnets glued to the cover and truck so the cover is removable now from the outside with frunk closed. I sprayed the inside of the fender cavity with 3 coats (1 can) of flex seal to give added strength to the wheel well material and now have the 5 foot quick connect and 25 foot jumper cables tucked nicely inside the fender. I guess I’ll take the truck in sometime to have the manual release adjusted but until then, I can pop the frunk electronically even if the 12v is dead using my gadget. Amazon, $99 Energizer 30’ jumper cables and extender, $10 worth of super strong magnets and gorilla glue.

ALRIGHT!! Glad to see we have more than a few MCGYVERS in this Forum

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