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I need someone to help me respond to this if possible.

Jodokk

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Ok, it's been an ongoing issue with a VERY good and legitimate solar company in here in town, who sold me a great, Franklinwh battery system.
I also purchased the "generator module" and of course I've taken a deep dive on the topic, because Franklin explicitly shows the Ford Lightning to be their choice for V2L with that module.
Thanks for all you help this far.
They installed the generator inlet I purchased. I wanted to save some money. I should have let them figure it out.
Last month, when the truck kept throwing the ground fault, I asked that they install a new, or modify the current one for use.
Now they email me with a picture of the 50a four prong I have for my Chargepoint 48amp charger.
I'm really confused.
How should I respond to the following?
Ford F-150 Lightning I need someone to help me respond to this if possible. 1000012449

I have confuse now.
This seems very wrong.
I would guess that I truly cannot do this to code with the current generator outlet. Just wanna negate that extra ground. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.🙏
Thanks!
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K6CCC

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They clearly do not understand what they are saying. The Mobile Charging Cord has zero relation to the truck sourcing power to their generator inlet.
 
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Jodokk

Jodokk

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Thanks, for sure. Maybe they're thinking of some future V2H function. Either way... Tolis dumb
 

Scorpio3d

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They clearly do not understand what they are saying. The Mobile Charging Cord has zero relation to the truck sourcing power to their generator inlet.
Agreed!!
A generator input is the complete opposite of a power plug that is used to charge your vehicle??
 

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Jodokk

Jodokk

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I've sent a message to Franklinwh engineering. I'm really curious to see what's what.
 

NW Ontario Ford Lightning

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125/250 50 amp gen plug can be wired for 120v or 240 volt. - see Reliance installation instructions.

120 volt 50 Amp three prong is G-N-L1 (one "hot") - the N-G will not be "internally connected"
250 volt 50 Amp three prong is G-L1-L2 (no Neutral)
 

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Ok, it's been an ongoing issue with a VERY good and legitimate solar company in here in town, who sold me a great, Franklinwh battery system.
I also purchased the "generator module" and of course I've taken a deep dive on the topic, because Franklin explicitly shows the Ford Lightning to be their choice for V2L with that module.
Thanks for all you help this far.
They installed the generator inlet I purchased. I wanted to save some money. I should have let them figure it out.
Last month, when the truck kept throwing the ground fault, I asked that they install a new, or modify the current one for use.
Now they email me with a picture of the 50a four prong I have for my Chargepoint 48amp charger.
I'm really confused.
How should I respond to the following?
1000012449.jpg

I have confuse now.
This seems very wrong.
I would guess that I truly cannot do this to code with the current generator outlet. Just wanna negate that extra ground. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.🙏
Thanks!
I wasn’t familiar with the company or equipment so I had to look it up.

In my reading the problem is really the code, and the automatic transfer switch. Their own installation guide references NFPA 70-250, so I would use that in my response.

The agate (ATS) has a removable jumper to bond neutral and ground and by default is left in place. When used for service, it says to leave it in place to remain code compliant, but it creates this type of situation in reference to NFPA 70-250 when used with our truck.

Ford F-150 Lightning I need someone to help me respond to this if possible. IMG_7561


The bonded neutral on our trucks then makes this arrangement a violation in itself.

Looking at their wiring diagram, I’m not sure their equipment can ever achieve code compliance, irrespective of your generator inlet. The goal would be this arrangement:

Ford F-150 Lightning I need someone to help me respond to this if possible. IMG_7562


The key being the neutral transfer as well, but according to their installation manual the only provision for grid is L1 and L2. Implying the neutral should land on the bus, meaning no transfer.

If it was me, I would probably ask about that and then inquire if there’s a separate piece of equipment that is needed to transfer the nuetral, or is there supposed to be an alternate that allows it to work with the generator.

Reference:
Spec Sheet
Installation Guide
 

chl

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Ok, it's been an ongoing issue with a VERY good and legitimate solar company in here in town, who sold me a great, Franklinwh battery system.
I also purchased the "generator module" and of course I've taken a deep dive on the topic, because Franklin explicitly shows the Ford Lightning to be their choice for V2L with that module.
Thanks for all you help this far.
They installed the generator inlet I purchased. I wanted to save some money. I should have let them figure it out.
Last month, when the truck kept throwing the ground fault, I asked that they install a new, or modify the current one for use.
Now they email me with a picture of the 50a four prong I have for my Chargepoint 48amp charger.
I'm really confused.
How should I respond to the following?
1000012449.jpg

I have confuse now.
This seems very wrong.
I would guess that I truly cannot do this to code with the current generator outlet. Just wanna negate that extra ground. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.🙏
Thanks!
Their reply doesn't make much sense.

The output from the Lightning is bonded in the truck - it is a bonded generator source.

So even if you have a 4 prong generator cord and inlet, you will have the GFCI trip issue because THE TRUCK IS A BONDED GENERATOR.

Their system probably will not work with a bonded generator.

To power your home with a bonded generator you need a transfer switch that switches the neutrals along with the hots. Their system apparently does NOT separate the utility neutral, which is bonded in the service panel, from the Lightning (or other generator) neutral.

With the neutral bonded in two places, the truck and the service panel, the truck will detect this ground loop as a ground fault and open the breaker for safety.

You will likely have to bypass the Franklin system with a transfer switch when using your truck to power the house.

Or use an unbonded generator.

You can't unbond the lightning - the bonding of the neutrals to the truck is done at the inverter(s), not in the outlet.
 

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Jodokk

Jodokk

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Wow, thanks so much. It makes perfect sense. I'll send that information over.
 
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Jodokk

Jodokk

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I wasn’t familiar with the company or equipment so I had to look it up.

In my reading the problem is really the code, and the automatic transfer switch. Their own installation guide references NFPA 70-250, so I would use that in my response.

The agate (ATS) has a removable jumper to bond neutral and ground and by default is left in place. When used for service, it says to leave it in place to remain code compliant, but it creates this type of situation in reference to NFPA 70-250 when used with our truck.

IMG_7561.jpeg


The bonded neutral on our trucks then makes this arrangement a violation in itself.

Looking at their wiring diagram, I’m not sure their equipment can ever achieve code compliance, irrespective of your generator inlet. The goal would be this arrangement:

IMG_7562.jpeg


The key being the neutral transfer as well, but according to their installation manual the only provision for grid is L1 and L2. Implying the neutral should land on the bus, meaning no transfer.

If it was me, I would probably ask about that and then inquire if there’s a separate piece of equipment that is needed to transfer the nuetral, or is there supposed to be an alternate that allows it to work with the generator.

Reference:
Spec Sheet
Installation Guide
This is a logical and detailed explanation that even a guy like me can grasp. Thanks a million!
Looks like they just leave it to us to land the neutral in the transfer switch receptacle. No electrician is going to willingly bypass code. This is really a goofy situation.
 

Yellow Buddy

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This is a logical and detailed explanation that even a guy like me can grasp. Thanks a million!
Looks like they just leave it to us to land the neutral in the transfer switch receptacle. No electrician is going to willingly bypass code. This is really a goofy situation.
It’s not about bypassing code, but having the right equipment to meet it. It’s cheaper equipment when you don’t have to transfer the nuetral too. But there is other equipment capable of it.
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