Manual Transfer Switch

[Richie740]

I am planning to install a manual transfer switch to power my home's emergency circuits (refrigerator, plugs and lights) from the Lightning during a power outage.

A friend of mine gave me this unit he had and never used. Does anyone have experience with the Reliance Controls model Q310CHK if it will work for this application or have any other suggestions, tips or tricks?

Sponsored

 

[Karlos]

I installed two of those units at my ranch house & hangar which has a separate electrical source, but on the same breaker. With the LER in the house garage, I'm able to run the house off the Frunk 2.4kW outlets, powering lights, fridge, some wall circuits, washing maching, microwave and internet - all the important stuff !
The rear bed 7.2kW outlet runs the hangar lights, some wall circuits, septic system, well pressure system and the overhead door. It can also run the well pump if all else is turned off. Some of these are 240V devices.

We've only had to run this for a single four hour outage & it worked well. I've got the truck range setup to where I can drive to a couple locations to recharge & the truck can also charge off the solar system, tho only on a L1 charger while the sun's shining.

 

[PreservedSwine]

I just installed a double throw transfer switch to the main panel, and flip the individual circuits I want energized manually. Much simpler.

 

[Heliian]

"completely pre-wired"?

Looks like an electricians nightmare.

 

[flabrent]

If there's an interlock kit available for your main breaker panel, it would probably be easier and offer a lot more options. Obviously you would want a licensed electrician to do the work.
For example only:
Interlock kit $20 +/-
A compliant breaker for the generator/Lightning feed to the main panel $30+/-
A compliant inlet box on the main panel. $30+/-

And don't be hesitant to talk with your local Code/Building Official before doing any work or buying anything. A 20 minute chat with them can save a lot of headaches.

 

[Firebelly]

There's also this. Plugs into the meter base, and then the meter plugs into it. No rewiring at all. Since it involves the meter, your utility has to approve it. The interlock is also not a bad option. Both energize ALL of your circuits so it's nice that you don't have to pick and choose. Every light switch, outlet, fridge, freezer - all work up to the capacity of the truck.

https://shopgenerlink.com/?gad_sour...a2G0u0F7T-IKjwfX7OCVfJkJFd1riF3hoCSssQAvD_BwE

 

[Randys Lightning]

I installed two of those units at my ranch house & hangar which has a separate electrical source, but on the same breaker. With the LER in the house garage, I'm able to run the house off the Frunk 2.4kW outlets, powering lights, fridge, some wall circuits, washing maching, microwave and internet - all the important stuff !
The rear bed 7.2kW outlet runs the hangar lights, some wall circuits, septic system, well pressure system and the overhead door. It can also run the well pump if all else is turned off. Some of these are 240V devices.

We've only had to run this for a single four hour outage & it worked well. I've got the truck range setup to where I can drive to a couple locations to recharge & the truck can also charge off the solar system, tho only on a L1 charger while the sun's shining.

 

[Randys Lightning]

Easy install

 

[ZeusDriver]

I have a separate panel for essentials, and have not yet used it (by itself), despite having had several power outages. I think that the idea of a fully automatic transfer from my truck (through a bidirectional charger) to an automated transfer switch has some appeal, but I don't keep the truck plugged in all the time, and don't have a bidirectional charger. I just don't feel the need. My system will remain fully manual, in the interests of simplicity and low cost.

Where I live, which is about 1000 miles from the middle of nowhere, and right in the middle of hurricane alley, we have a small coop for electricity, and they are remarkably good at keeping people informed re power outages. Sometimes, before I even realize that the power has gone out, I get a text with an estimate re when power will be restored. They usually beat the estimate.

When I installed my L2 charger, I asked whether they would want to inspect it. Nope. So I just wired it up with lamp cord, which sure saved me some money. (OK... kidding. Don't use lamp cord.)

I hope that everyone knows that in a power outage, you need to be very darn sure that you are not energizing the incoming line inadvertently, possibly putting line workers in harm's way.

 

[Joe Dablock]

I wouldn’t bother with that panel. I just feed the truck directly to my main panel via a 30 amp breaker. And have a main cutout switch for main breaker. You can pre-determine which breakers to open so you don’t exceed 30 amps. (See picture)

This way you can get power to anywhere in house (just not at the same time).

 

[El Duderino]

I wouldn’t bother with that panel. I just feed the truck directly to my main panel via a 30 amp breaker.

What did you do to address the bonded neutral issue tripping the GFCI in your Lightning?

 

[El Duderino]

I am planning to install a manual transfer switch to power my home's emergency circuits (refrigerator, plugs and lights) from the Lightning during a power outage.

A friend of mine gave me this unit he had and never used. Does anyone have experience with the Reliance Controls model Q310CHK if it will work for this application or have any other suggestions, tips or tricks?

Here is some additional info regarding your new equipment that might be helpful:

https://www.nooutage.com/310.htm

 

[Joe Dablock]

How did I address the bonded neutral issue. Don’t tell anyone, but I just pulled the unshielded wire out of the receptacle that the cable from the truck plugs into. Some day long after I’m gone (due to electrocution) someone will wonder why the unshielded wire is not connected.

 

[chl]

I believe that is a transfer switch designed for unbonded/floating neutral generators.

Because of that, the GFCI of the Pro Power On Board (PPOB) from the Lightning would trip when connected to your bonded service panel because there would be a ground loop created and a return path for current on the ground and anything connected to it, such as metal parts of your service panel. The neutral would be bonded in two places - it should only be bonded in one place, in this case the Lightning.

So what you really need is a neutral switching transfer switch like the GENERAC 6853 for example to comply with the NEC and what your local electrical contractor and inspector will require. Such a transfer switch can be had for under $400 with the generator inlet box and a 10 foot 30A generator cord
.
This video explains how to use a bonded generator (which the Lightning inverter output is) to power you house:



Note: Newer NEC code does not require the connection to a grounding electrode (ground rod) to be near the generator as mentioned in the video, so as I understand it, being grounded by the house grounding system and the house grounding electrode system via the ground wire is sufficient to comply with the code.

"...A 'grounding system' and a 'grounding electrode system' shall be 'connected to the ground terminal' on the portable generator. See NEC Article 250.34(A)(4) and (5) for code compliance."

In the NEC, a "grounding electrode system" is the composite of "all installed grounding electrodes" at a building or structure that are bonded together "to provide a low-impedance path to the earth."

If you do not connect the ground wire from the Lightning to the house, you will not be in compliance with the NEC code and your install should not pass inspection.

Here's one reason why disconnecting the ground wire is a dangerous:
The ground wire provides a low-resistance path for fault currents (current flowing where it shouldn't) to return to the generator source, which allows safety devices like circuit breakers or fuses to trip and disconnect the power. Without a ground, fault currents might flow through unintended paths, like a person's body, potentially causing severe shock or electrocution.

A ground fault in a circuit in your house would not be detected by the GFCI in the Lightning without the ground wire back to the Lightning, so the Lightning GFCI would not trip in that case to deenergize the circuit.

In the event of a ground fault, circuit current is divided between the ground and the neutral in parallel, but this will not open the panel breaker shutting off the circuit. Because the current is divided between the neutral and the ground, if the ground is connected to the Lightning ground, it would open the Lightning GFCI. But without the ground wire back to the Lightning, the fault will not be detected and the GFCI will not disconnect the circuit.

\
Note: if the ground wire is connected it is assume a neutral switching transfer switch would be used and the neutral would no longer be bonded at the service panel of the house:

----------
Disclaimer

I am an electrical engineer but not a licensed electrician.

The information provided in this post is provided for information purposes only and does not constitute any endorsement or recommendation. No warranty, expressed or implied, is made regarding the accuracy, adequacy, completeness, legality, reliability, or usefulness of any information found in this post. It is your responsibility to verify and investigate this information.

Sponsored