New GenerLink option (TN, and Utah)

[hturnerfamily]

This is new[option 2, as shown]... I contacted Generlink directly, and was told I had to go through my utility. So, now the question is - what does it cost to have an electrician put a meter box in and switch the feed over?

[in this photo, the Utility meter, to the left, is then feeding this ADDITIONAL(Option2) meter base box, with the Generlink installed, and the wiring then leaves the top and feeds the home's interior Main Panel]

so, I can imagine that, yes, this is a great option for those who's UTILITY is not yet supporting, or authorizing, the Option1 direct meter adapter version... although, while in a initial build of a home this would be 'easy' and probably a very low-cost option, since it's only another meter base installation, it's going to be another story for existing homes: the electrician will then have to see your current meter base and incoming utility power design in order to determine what is then needed to add this additional meter base box for the Generlink device.
It 'seems' simple, yes, but EVERY home has a different design when it comes to home the incoming Utility power wires are routed.
-Some are routed directly from the meter back into the home, right behind the meter base, which would make re-routing these wires to a new additional outside meterbase more problematic.
-Some are routed from the existing meterbase directly down into an exterior main Panel, or disconnect, called a 'Combo' panel, where, again, re-routing will be intensive.
-Some are routed from the meterbase through a short tube down into the exterior Main Panel disconnect, where this might be a more easier re-routing, etc.

There is no way to give any advise on how much any local electrician would charge - there are too many variables, but, I like that there is this 'no utility company authorization needed' option!

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[hturnerfamily]

there's also the $999 - $1,499 charge or the device itself, whether Utility or Hybrid...

but, even if your Utility offers the ability for the 'direct' connection, I might would even use the Hybrid, instead, as then I don't have to wait for the Utility's approval, or permit, if needed, although, likely the electrician will have to have the utility come out to remove the meter, first, regardless, etc.

 

[Henry Ford]

As the first link notes, your utility governs whether you can install this or not.

Our utility, DTE, offers it at a monthly cost of a mere $22.99 a month. You cannot buy it, this is your only option. Only $99.99 to install. And, provides

• Surge protection for your home with warranty coverage up to $5,000 per event for appliances and $1,000 per event to repair or replace electronics if damaged by a surge.

Such a deal. So many in SE Michigan despise DTE.

I have DTE but didn’t know this option existed. It’s a terrible option and I won’t be looking any farther into it, but given the fact I have a separate meter on an EV charging only plan and they haven’t bothered to send me any information on it, I suspect they actually have no interest in selling these things. Maybe the regulators told them they had to offer it.

 

[Jamchampnate]

I’m definitely doing this in the next year. I like the option to power everything I want or disable the few I don’t. Vs. having a panel where I have to choose the 4-12 things I want to power.

In Utah.

 

[Firebelly]

I’m definitely doing this in the next year. I like the option to power everything I want or disable the few I don’t. Vs. having a panel where I have to choose the 4-12 things I want to power.

In Utah.

Yep. And I forgot to mention: fridges, freezers, and portable ACs. When I had one, I put a portable AC in the bedroom, and that was great on hot summer nights. Right now, I have a main fridge, a basement fridge, a basement freezer, and two wine coolers. Truck can power them all easily, but I would hate to have to tease out the right circuits to run all that.

 

[daczone]

This is a totally different solution. The great thing about generlink is it has the ability to energize EVERY circuit, not just 6. In my case, all I had to turn off was the AC and oven. EVERYTHING else worked - every light, every outlet, every TV, etc.

Also, for a utility approved installation, the installation is a lot cheaper, since all they have to do is unplug the meter, plug in the generlink, and then plug the meter into that. No rewiring!

Wouldn't running the entire house overload the truck?

 

[hturnerfamily]

if you mean that during an 'outage' if you are going to use your 'truck' to run EVERYTHING all at once ; YES.

but, that's not how life works.

you could also do that with your current Main Panel, if you want to try. It's not normal, though.

nobody decides to all-of-a-sudden do their CLOTHES DRYING, turn the Water Heater to HIGH, run all three A/C systems on full blast, and use all four Eyes of the stove, and the OVEN, on high... while/during an outage. We do the minimum, not the max.

 

[Firebelly]

Wouldn't running the entire house overload the truck?

There's a big difference between ENERGIZING every circuit, and USING every circuit at the same time. The truck will easily run a normal load of lights, TVs, refrigerators, internet, etc. Household stuff. You just have to be careful to either shut off the big loads, or not run more than one of them at the same time: water heater, AC, oven, dryer, etc.

I've got 34 circuits on my main panel and 8 on a subpanel in the garage. If I went with a conventional generator transfer switch I'd have to select 6 of those to be active, leaving the other 38 circuits dead in a power outage. So most of my lights and outlets would not work.

 

[TechnoSwiss]

There was a product that came out... year or two ago? similar to this, might have even been the same company. Drawback to that one was it was limited to 150A service, I'm glad to see this one is capable of 200A service.

 

[jwrezz]

This is a totally different solution. The great thing about generlink is it has the ability to energize EVERY circuit, not just 6. In my case, all I had to turn off was the AC and oven. EVERYTHING else worked - every light, every outlet, every TV, etc.

Also, for a utility approved installation, the installation is a lot cheaper, since all they have to do is unplug the meter, plug in the generlink, and then plug the meter into that. No rewiring!

Your electrician can install a generator inlet, and load panel interlock kit for so much less and as long as the interlock is UL listed should be legal in most states. No transfer switch and you can select any of your current breakers to power. I don't see what makes the generlink system any better. You still have to turn off your main breaker. You still have to carefully choose what breakers to turn on or keep off to keep it under your generator's (or PPOB) max output. Interlock and Inlet Box

 

[RickLightning]

Your electrician can install a generator inlet, and load panel interlock kit for so much less and as long as the interlock is UL listed should be legal in most states. No transfer switch and you can select any of your current breakers to power. I don't see what makes the generlink system any better. You still have to turn off your main breaker. You still have to carefully choose what breakers to turn on or keep off to keep it under your generator's (or PPOB) max output. Interlock and Inlet Box

Actually, that's not what the Generlink does. It is totally inoperable unless the power fails. When the power fails, you can then supply power. When the power comes back on, you then cannot supply power.

 

[jwrezz]

There was a product that came out... year or two ago? similar to this, might have even been the same company. Drawback to that one was it was limited to 150A service, I'm glad to see this one is capable of 200A service.

150 vs 200 amp service doesn't matter in an outage when you are using a generator. It's not likely one has access to a 36kw (let alone a 48kw) generator. PPOB is only good for 7200 watts

 

[jwrezz]

Actually, that's not what the Generlink does. It is totally inoperable unless the power fails. When the power fails, you can then supply power. When the power comes back on, you then cannot supply power.

Just like an inlet box and interlock kit do. The point of the interlock is to make sure your main breaker is off before you can use the generator inlet.

 

[MountainAlive]

Your electrician can install a generator inlet, and load panel interlock kit for so much less and as long as the interlock is UL listed should be legal in most states. No transfer switch and you can select any of your current breakers to power. I don't see what makes the generlink system any better. You still have to turn off your main breaker. You still have to carefully choose what breakers to turn on or keep off to keep it under your generator's (or PPOB) max output. Interlock and Inlet Box

Question on the simple breaker and interlock style approach. How does the Lightning play nicely with the bonded panel when the Lightning itself is also a GFCI bonded neutral generator? Do you have to do anything special or does it just work?

 

[jwrezz]

Question on the simple breaker and interlock style approach. How does the Lightning play nicely with the bonded panel when the Lightning itself is also a GFCI bonded neutral generator? Do you have to do anything special or does it just work?

I can't say as I only have the smaller PPOB. Depending on where your G/N bond is, it could be an issue. I run my Predator generator with it's bonded neutral to my interlock at the breaker panel, while the bond for my house is on the outside of the house at the main disconnect. Never an issue. I actually ran the generator before I had a main disconnect separate from my panel so it had 2 bonds when running the generator. Plans are for a small (10kw) inverter and 48v battery setup. But I'm very interested in the V2H systems that are coming out. Either way, I'd not think there'd be any difference between the interlock would work any differently than the Generlink system.

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