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Powering a pool pump

GDN

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Has anyone powered their pool pump from the truck? I'm evaluating the circuits I would need in a sub or generator panel. I don't know that I can make it work with the generator panel. The pool is likely the only 240 device in the house I'd want powered. I know the 5 ton AC unit is out, I likely wouldn't try the oven either.

The pump is a Pentair 011017 Variable speed. They are super efficient, but it is the start up I worry about. They start at full speed and then step down.
Electrical Specifications
Circuit Protection: Two-pole 20 AMP device at the Electrical Panel. Input: 230 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 3200 Watts


EDIT - See post #9 down in this thread for the answer about running the pool pump from Pro Power. TL : DR - you can easily.
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Maquis

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Has anyone powered their pool pump from the truck? I'm evaluating the circuits I would need in a sub or generator panel. I don't know that I can make it work with the generator panel. The pool is likely the only 240 device in the house I'd want powered. I know the 5 ton AC unit is out, I likely wouldn't try the oven either.

The pump is a Pentair 011017 Variable speed. They are super efficient, but it is the start up I worry about. They start at full speed and then step down.
Electrical Specifications
Circuit Protection: Two-pole 20 AMP device at the Electrical Panel. Input: 230 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 3200 Watts
Pentair VS pumps are notorious for having GFCI tripping issues. They even had Siemens make a special breaker for them.
 
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Whammy Bar

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Variable speed normally have a low inrush as the drive ramps them up.
 

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I don't know about Pentair but my Jandy pumps I can set the priming RPM of the variable speed pump in my automation system. If your pump is already primed and full of water you may be able to lower that to help you out on the power required to get it started. After that the variable speed pumps don't take a lot to run. Id post over on troulbefreepool.com and ask them also.
 
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GDN

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I don't know about Pentair but my Jandy pumps I can set the priming RPM of the variable speed pump in my automation system. If your pump is already primed and full of water you may be able to lower that to help you out on the power required to get it started. After that the variable speed pumps don't take a lot to run. Id post over on troulbefreepool.com and ask them also.
Thank you - I love troublefreepool.com - best pool help there is and best way of caring for a pool.

I do have automation, so I'll have to go look and see what my priming RPM is set to. I hope that I can set from the automation GUI because the keypad on the pump quit working a few years ago (a very weak point of the Pentair pumps).
 

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I was going to make a snarky comment :) that pool equipment would be at the bottom of a critical loads list (I don't have a pool). But I'm guessing with our temps currently at 14 degrees, this is to keep stuff from freezing and bursting if power was lost.
 
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GDN

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I was going to make a snarky comment :) that pool equipment would be at the bottom of a critical loads list (I don't have a pool). But I'm guessing with our temps currently at 14 degrees, this is to keep stuff from freezing and bursting if power was lost.
Exactly. 3 years ago in the TX meltdown I was super lucky to never lose power (I live right between two schools.) However there were a ton of people that replaced pool filters and pumps because they froze and burst. It takes a whole lot for a pool of water to truly drop below 32, even at extended sub freezing temps, so if you can just keep it circulating through the pump you will likely be OK. The heater is also wired to 240, but that is just for a blower fan, it is gas. So likely I'd try to run them both.

All of this is why I want to look at an interlock on my main panel and skip the generator sub panel. I have too many circuits that I'd like to be able to cycle through. I need 3 or 4 for lights and internet and TV 2 for my main fridge/freezer (each are on a 20 amp circuit) and I've got a second fridge. Then I also want the central heat (gas fired) and then even the option to turn a few of those things off if needed and run the pool a couple of hours. Just getting it circulated and 2 hours of heat I can add 8 to 10 degrees to it.

I don't need auto fail over and I don't need to run all of the circuits at once. I'm happy to manually manage it.
 
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CluckFam7

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Has anyone powered their pool pump from the truck? I'm evaluating the circuits I would need in a sub or generator panel. I don't know that I can make it work with the generator panel. The pool is likely the only 240 device in the house I'd want powered. I know the 5 ton AC unit is out, I likely wouldn't try the oven either.

The pump is a Pentair 011017 Variable speed. They are super efficient, but it is the start up I worry about. They start at full speed and then step down.
Electrical Specifications
Circuit Protection: Two-pole 20 AMP device at the Electrical Panel. Input: 230 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 3200 Watts
Did you ever figure this out? I would be interested in the same thing.
 
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GDN

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Did you ever figure this out? I would be interested in the same thing.
I did, I've come a long way since January.

I opted to back feed my panel using the 14-50 plug I had installed for a portable EVSE/charger. To use the truck power I flip my panel main off, connect my cable from the 14-50 back to the truck 14-30 and turn on pro power. So no further discussion about the safety of that. However, I now have full access to the 240 Pro Power from the bed of the truck to any circuit I want to power in the house.

I've isolated every circuit/breaker in the house with each running its load to see how much each one pulls. I can run the whole house (2300 sq ft) TV's, lights, internet equipment/router, garage door opener, as long as I only use one of the 240 devices - clothes dryer, oven, pool pump. No go for the AC. More details below.

I have internet and home automation gear in two closets. I bought small UPS's for those so while I'm testing or in the event of a real outage those never go off and don't get power surges. I get about 120 minutes of run time for what I have plugged into each.

To get to your question - the pool pump runs easily, it pulled 1620 watts on each leg at start up or about 13.5 amps. Then settled down to about 1000 watts each. So I can run everything I need in the house along with the pool and have no worries.

The only things I have to isolate are the clothes dryer, oven, pool pump and AC. If I turn off the pool pump I can use the oven or dryer, so I get any one of the 3 at a time.

I purchased and installed a Micro-Air Easy Start for the 5 ton AC unit. It did incredible things to limit the initial draw at start up, but I fell short of being able to run the AC from the truck. My AC unit is rated LRA (start up) of 152.9 amps. I knew that likely spelled trouble. With the Easy start it is pulling about 35.7 amps or 8568 watts at start up and there is just no extra room from the truck - it trips at 7600, I got so close. Once the AC does start it only pulls about 10.5 to 11 amps while running, but the start up is a no go. If only I had that little extra to get through startup.

The Easy start has blue tooth in it and you can monitor it and the power draw. I'm attaching a screen shot from a few days back. Each start varies just a little, but they are all close.

The faults listed actually came from the first 4 start ups of the AC. The Easy Start flashed an error light and told me it was overloaded. It still started the unit and over the first 5 starts it was able to do its thing and make adjustments (it needs 5 starts to learn how to do its job).

Ford F-150 Lightning Powering a pool pump IMG_6264.PNG
 

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I did, I've come a long way since January.

I opted to back feed my panel using the 14-50 plug I had installed for a portable EVSE/charger. To use the truck power I flip my panel main off, connect my cable from the 14-50 back to the truck 14-30 and turn on pro power. So no further discussion about the safety of that. However, I now have full access to the 240 Pro Power from the bed of the truck to any circuit I want to power in the house.

I've isolated every circuit/breaker in the house with each running its load to see how much each one pulls. I can run the whole house (2300 sq ft) TV's, lights, internet equipment/router, garage door opener, as long as I only use one of the 240 devices - clothes dryer, oven, pool pump. No go for the AC. More details below.

I have internet and home automation gear in two closets. I bought small UPS's for those so while I'm testing or in the event of a real outage those never go off and don't get power surges. I get about 120 minutes of run time for what I have plugged into each.

To get to your question - the pool pump runs easily, it pulled 1620 watts on each leg at start up or about 13.5 amps. Then settled down to about 1000 watts each. So I can run everything I need in the house along with the pool and have no worries.

The only things I have to isolate are the clothes dryer, oven, pool pump and AC. If I turn off the pool pump I can use the oven or dryer, so I get any one of the 3 at a time.

I purchased and installed a Micro-Air Easy Start for the 5 ton AC unit. It did incredible things to limit the initial draw at start up, but I fell short of being able to run the AC from the truck. My AC unit is rated LRA (start up) of 152.9 amps. I knew that likely spelled trouble. With the Easy start it is pulling about 35.7 amps or 8568 watts at start up and there is just no extra room from the truck - it trips at 7600, I got so close. Once the AC does start it only pulls about 10.5 to 11 amps while running, but the start up is a no go. If only I had that little extra to get through startup.

The Easy start has blue tooth in it and you can monitor it and the power draw. I'm attaching a screen shot from a few days back. Each start varies just a little, but they are all close.

The faults listed actually came from the first 4 start ups of the AC. The Easy Start flashed an error light and told me it was overloaded. It still started the unit and over the first 5 starts it was able to do its thing and make adjustments (it needs 5 starts to learn how to do its job).

IMG_6264.PNG
 

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So you did not make any changes to your 14-50 plug (ground or neutral) to accomplish this?
 
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So you did not make any changes to your 14-50 plug (ground or neutral) to accomplish this?
I did make changes, I made the dog bone discussed in other places and removed the ground on the connection to the truck. This was my reference in my post about I wouldn't get deeper into the safety of what I did as you get a divided camp on this.
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