Copper vs Aluminum wiring for Charge Station Pro

[ericpullen]

Has anyone seen any specifications for the charge station pro that says if it requires copper? I was talking to my electrician and he said that Tesla chargers require copper terminations.

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[F150LER]

I would imagine it’s copper. Aluminum terminations are pretty specific use cases at this point.

 

[PV2EV]

Would be suprising if it did not take either. If going a distance, use aluminum, and then transition in the junction box.

 

[Stlww18]

FWIW I asked my electrician about using aluminum to run my 14-50 circuit and he said he thought it was a terrible idea, especially given the price difference isn't significant for most runs you'd expect in a typical home

 

[Maquis]

FWIW I asked my electrician about using aluminum to run my 14-50 circuit and he said he thought it was a terrible idea, especially given the price difference isn't significant for most runs you'd expect in a typical home

For a 50A circuit, that’s true. At 100A, the difference will be significant….about double. Add about $3 per foot of run to use copper.

 

[beatle]

If the charge station specifies copper, perhaps a copper pigtail can be used along with a connector made for Al-Cu junctions with anti-oxidant applied. I know I don't want to pay for 50 feet of copper for the 100A circuit.

 

[PV2EV]

If the charge station specifies copper, perhaps a copper pigtail can be used along with a connector made for Al-Cu junctions with anti-oxidant applied. I know I don't want to pay for 50 feet of copper for the 100A circuit.

As I have posted in another thread, I used these for the junction: Morris Products Insulated 2 Conductor Connector – 2-14 Wire Range

 

[Labs4Lightning]

If the charge station specifies copper, perhaps a copper pigtail can be used along with a connector made for Al-Cu junctions with anti-oxidant applied. I know I don't want to pay for 50 feet of copper for the 100A circuit.

Not sure why all the anti aluminum talk here.
go look at your service cable coming into your panel. Aluminum.
100 amp circuit with a dab of anti oxidizer ????
when I’m doubt check NEC

 

[beatle]

Not sure if you quoted me accidentally, but I am not anti-aluminum. This isn't the 70s. There is definitely a place for it as long as it's done properly, especially as the cost of copper continues its meteoric rise.

 

[jefro]

I'd think that one could use AL and the manual will have to state it as such or connector will have label. Or label will have it labeled.

There has been a number of ways to get AL to be more reliable. The dielectric grease and use proper torque or they make special ends that can be swedged and used.

Locally your code could be of some issue if you are running a sub panel.

 

[F150LER]

Not sure why all the anti aluminum talk here.
go look at your service cable coming into your panel. Aluminum.
100 amp circuit with a dab of anti oxidizer ????
when I’m doubt check NEC

Not anti, I would be surprised if you didn’t have to switch to copper to make the final connection.

 

[tls]

If the charge station specifies copper, perhaps a copper pigtail can be used along with a connector made for Al-Cu junctions with anti-oxidant applied. I know I don't want to pay for 50 feet of copper for the 100A circuit.

That connector would be called "the safety disconnect required by code for any charger exceeding 60A". Because the disconnect is a code requirement the transition from Al to Cu is basically free - you use a 2-space, 125A subpanel as the disconnect and put it right by the charger. Run #2 Al into the disconnect - panel main lugs are all rated for Al - and #3 copper for the foot or two (or, heck, just nipple them together if the geometry works) into the charge station. This has been a common way to wire Tesla and Clipper Creek 80A chargers for years.

 

[Maquis]

That connector would be called "the safety disconnect required by code for any charger exceeding 60A". Because the disconnect is a code requirement the transition from Al to Cu is basically free - you use a 2-space, 125A subpanel as the disconnect and put it right by the charger. Run #2 Al into the disconnect - panel main lugs are all rated for Al - and #3 copper for the foot or two (or, heck, just nipple them together if the geometry works) into the charge station. This has been a common way to wire Tesla and Clipper Creek 80A chargers for years.

That works, but is a bit of overkill. A 100 non-fused disconnect switch would cost a fraction of a sub panel with a 125A breaker.

 

[tls]

I would not use a non-fusible disconnect, and since most of the cheap ones are rated at 50A or 60A for HVAC applications, you may not save as much as you think vs. big-box store prices for a very small panel. The 100A breaker may actually cost more.

That said, check the labelling but most disconnects over 50A should have 90C terminals rated for Cu or Al wire, and be usable instead of my suggested small panel in this application.

Tesla strongly recommends crimping copper ferrules on the supply wiring at the charger end. I would actually use them on both ends of any copper involved (not the Al if used) - unlike Al wire, big Cu still often has rather fine strands and with a 100A OCPD you do not want some little stray copper hair trying to take 100A to ground while there is no actual load connected (!).

 

[Maquis]

I would not use a non-fusible disconnect, and since most of the cheap ones are rated at 50A or 60A for HVAC applications, you may not save as much as you think vs. big-box store prices for a very small panel. The 100A breaker may actually cost more.

That said, check the labelling but most disconnects over 50A should have 90C terminals rated for Cu or Al wire, and be usable instead of my suggested small panel in this application.

Tesla strongly recommends crimping copper ferrules on the supply wiring at the charger end. I would actually use them on both ends of any copper involved (not the Al if used) - unlike Al wire, big Cu still often has rather fine strands and with a 100A OCPD you do not want some little stray copper hair trying to take 100A to ground while there is no actual load connected (!).

Residential HVAC disconnects are generally 50A or less. I’m not referring to those.
more like this:

Switching conductor sizes at the transition to take advantage of 90C ampacity is a worthwhile suggestion, but it requires careful attention to detail. The breaker at the supply end will be 70C rated, so it has to be done at both ends.

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