Ford Charge Station Pro Wiring Requirements (A/L1 and B/N)

[Tomwilli2025]

When reading the FCSP installation manual, I've managed to confuse myself on the required wiring from your panel. On page 3, it says " Use 3 AWG, 90d Celsius copper wire only for AC connections (A/L1 and B/N)." Is it only requiring 1 LOAD and 1 Neutral? What am I missing here? I spoke to my electrician about this over the phone and have sent him the manual to review.

Also on page 14, they illustrate the below showing the same thing.

My plan is to install a 80 amp breaker and derate the charger to 64amps in the FCSP. I will be using #4 copper.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Sponsored

 

[Amps]

It looks like it is referring to the label etching on the circuit board. Two loads (A/L1 & B/N) and a ground (EARTH GND).

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician.

 

[Maquis]

For residential installation, you need two phase conductors (A & B) and a ground. The alternate L1 /N labels are for installation on one phase of a three phase system.

 

[Aspesi4]

For residential installation, you need two phase conductors (A & B) and a ground. The alternate L1 /N labels are for installation on one phase of a three phase system.

Can this unit be wired into a three phase system? Not that I have one at my house obviously, but I was under the impression the unit is only for 240/120VAC, 1Ph systems. Maybe the unit can be wired for 120VAC? Slow, but L1 and N would be 120VAC.

 

[FlasherZ]

When reading the FCSP installation manual, I've managed to confuse myself on the required wiring from your panel. On page 3, it says " Use 3 AWG, 90d Celsius copper wire only for AC connections (A/L1 and B/N)." Is it only requiring 1 LOAD and 1 Neutral? What am I missing here? I spoke to my electrician about this over the phone and have sent him the manual to review.

Also on page 14, they illustrate the below showing the same thing.

My plan is to install a 80 amp breaker and derate the charger to 64amps in the FCSP. I will be using #4 copper.

Thanks for your thoughts.

In the US, you will use 2 "hot" conductors on A and B and not a neutral.

It's likely they were also designing it for use in international systems as well, where 220-240 VAC is delivered as line and neutral (220-240 VAC above ground).

I haven't seen anything to suggest that Ford's onboard chargers can use 277 VAC, which is the voltage found between line and neutral on a US 480V three-phase industrial wye system. I think some Tesla folks tried it and it actually worked on their cars, but Tesla claimed their chargers were designed only for up to 265V and it shatters warranties.

 

[FlasherZ]

Can this unit be wired into a three phase system? Not that I have one at my house obviously, but I was under the impression the unit is only for 240/120VAC, 1Ph systems. Maybe the unit can be wired for 120VAC? Slow, but L1 and N would be 120VAC.

Yes, this can be wired into a 120V/208V three-phase system as found in many apartment complexes. You will use two "line" conductors to accomplish this and not neutral.

Given that the unit uses a switching power supply, it's highly likely that 120V supply voltage to the connector would work, but obviously that's horribly suboptimal. Tesla wall connectors can be used with 120V too, I knew of someone who carried one around with him for camping - RV used the 240V/50A receptacle and the car was charged using the 120V/30A receptacle. They went with the wall connector for the longer cord compared to the mobile connector and carried it as a portable EVSE in the RV.

 

[adoublee]

Yes, this can be wired into a 120V/208V three-phase system as found in many apartment complexes. You will use two "line" conductors to accomplish this and not neutral.

Given that the unit uses a switching power supply, it's highly likely that 120V supply voltage to the connector would work, but obviously that's horribly suboptimal. Tesla wall connectors can be used with 120V too, I knew of someone who carried one around with him for camping - RV used the 240V/50A receptacle and the car was charged using the 120V/30A receptacle. They went with the wall connector for the longer cord compared to the mobile connector and carried it as a portable EVSE in the RV.

But get less power per amp delivered.

The labeling on the charger is very poor. L1/A should probably just be labeled L1, and B/N should probably be L2/N.

 

[FlasherZ]

But get less power per amp delivered.

The labeling on the charger is very poor. L1/A should probably just be labeled L1, and B/N should probably be L2/N.

Absolutely correct. 120V/30A is only 3.6 kW. 208V/30A is only 6.2 kW. 240V/30A is 7.2 kW. But when you're camping, you're probably getting a lot of time to charge at 3.6 kW.

And I agree it's probably best to label L1 and L2/N. But that's an engineer for you.

 

[Aspesi4]

But get less power per amp delivered.

The labeling on the charger is very poor. L1/A should probably just be labeled L1, and B/N should probably be L2/N.

Completely agree. L1 and L2/N is much cleaner.

So if wiring with 240VAC, no neutral is required huh. I would have expected 120VAC is needed for controls, but I guess they may have a CPT internal to drop from 240VAC to DC control.

 

[Maquis]

In the US, you will use 2 "hot" conductors on A and B and not a neutral.

It's likely they were also designing it for use in international systems as well, where 220-240 VAC is delivered as line and neutral (220-240 VAC above ground).

I haven't seen anything to suggest that Ford's onboard chargers can use 277 VAC, which is the voltage found between line and neutral on a US 480V three-phase industrial wye system. I think some Tesla folks tried it and it actually worked on their cars, but Tesla claimed their chargers were designed only for up to 265V and it shatters warranties.

Agreed. No way it’s suitable for 277.
It would work on an international system as you state.
Should we even mention the rare 480V high-leg delta used in some places in the US?

 

[Lightning.Dav]

Thanks for posting this. We (at my electrician's suggestion) were going with aluminum wire for the cost savings. I just sent him the manual asking how this impacts us, or if it does. I hadn't seen (or at least taken notice of) the #3 copper only line before.

 

[Maquis]

Thanks for posting this. We (at my electrician's suggestion) were going with aluminum wire for the cost savings. I just sent him the manual asking how this impacts us, or if it does. I hadn't seen (or at least taken notice of) the #3 copper only line before.

You can run aluminum and transition to copper in a junction box near the EVSE.

 

[Lightning.Dav]

You can run aluminum and transition to copper in a junction box near the EVSE.

He agrees, that is one possibility. He thinks (mostly due to minimum purchase amounts) that the added cost of the junction box and labor almost negates the cost savings, though. So I'm probably going with copper.

I do wish shopping for a competent electrician was easier.

 

[Crilly]

In my house L1 or L2 to neutral is 110 volts. L1 to L2 is 220 volts.

 

[Maquis]

In my house L1 or L2 to neutral is 110 volts. L1 to L2 is 220 volts.

If that’s actual measured voltage, it’s pretty low.

Sponsored