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Ajzride

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That is BS, I just posted how I used it on surface streets yesterday.
Then grab a GoPro and show us a video.

I've done literally thousands of hours of testing and analyzing the canbus signals of the ford system. I only see 2 possbilities here:

A) We are communicating poorly and not talkinga bout the same thing
b) Your torque sensor in the steering wheel is damaged and is registering your hands on all the time.

On a non-bluecruise mapped road the ford PSCM will check for at least 1.5NM of torque on the wheel every 8 seconds.
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PJnc284

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yeah, you would be the first person ever to have blue cruise on city streets. I would bet a comma that you don't though. Blue Cruise is only active when you have a blue screen similar to the first image below and there's a 0% chance of that on non-interstates or controlled divided highways. Ok, I shouldn't say 0% since those with comma's can get that screen anywhere with cruise control. :crazy: The second image is regular lane-centering with the steering wheel on the top left and requires frequent pressure on the wheel to avoid the "keep hands on the wheel" nag.

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Ajzride

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What I noticed while it was steering itself on surface streets is every now and then it would tell me to put hands on wheel, when I did, the alert would go away and continue steering itself. It didn't stay on with the blue wheel as shown in your screen, I've seen that pop up on the hwy. Regardless of what it's called, the truck was keeping itself centered in it's lane.
That is the hands-on wheel nag. With the Comma, you can go for hours without touching the wheel on any street.
 

UncleTony

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What I noticed while it was steering itself on surface streets is every now and then it would tell me to put hands on wheel, when I did, the alert would go away and continue steering itself. It didn't stay on with the blue wheel as shown in your screen, I've seen that pop up on the hwy. Regardless of what it's called, the truck was keeping itself centered in it's lane.
Not to come off as rude, but if you don't understand how the stock systems work and what they are called, you probably don't need to install a comma. They are essentially dev kits and you need at least a basic understanding of what it does. What you are talking about is Copilot 360 which is not hands free, which is why it is telling you to grab the wheel. Blue Cruise is the stock hands free system and it only works on mapped roads. It also shows the graphic on the IPC as shown by the post above (Which he is only getting because of the comma).
 
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watts/up

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Out of over 100 I've installed, I've had one bad 90-degree adapter. The 180-degree adapter is much more common to fail, and about 4 of the last 10 have been bad. My new dock is explicitly designed to eliminate that 180 and hide the short cable so it isn't in a place where it gets touched a lot. Because I handle my comma so much during development, I have worn out 3 of those short cables.
So, I was able to narrow my issue down to the short 5" cable. I ordered another brand (Cable Creations) which worked but is not as flexible as the the one you spec'd. I reordered the original cable and so far, so good.

Thanks.
 

NeighborGeek

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With the Comma, you can go for hours without touching the wheel on any street.
Even at low speeds, whereas the built in lane centering doesn't kick in below 40MPH.
 

Ajzride

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Even at low speeds, whereas the built in lane centering doesn't kick in below 40MPH.
normal lane centering will work as low as 15mph, but there are a whole list of requirements for it to come on, and they are rarely satisfied in places with low speed limits.
 

NeighborGeek

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normal lane centering will work as low as 15mph, but there are a whole list of requirements for it to come on, and they are rarely satisfied in places with low speed limits.
Ahh, sorry. I was thinking of the Lane Keeping Assist, which kicks in at 40. Lane Centering apparently works at lower speeds, but only if using Cruise. I guess I never use cruise on city streets, so I wouldn't have noticed.
 

Ajzride

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Ahh, sorry. I was thinking of the Lane Keeping Assist, which kicks in at 40. Lane Centering apparently works at lower speeds, but only if using Cruise. I guess I never use cruise on city streets, so I wouldn't have noticed.
I had 9 speeding tickets before I finished college. Nothing crazy, no 100mph, just 10-15 over. I learned to use my cruise as soon as I left the driveway.
 

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campalex24

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Might be a bit late to this. I have a 2024 lightning flash. Had the comma 3x previously in a 2021 Kia telluride. Worked fine in the Kia.

I just installed the 3x in the lightning, using the Q4 harness (2 of them actually as one was lost in the mail but showed up and I tried both cables).

Initially it worked after installing BluePilot 3.1, however it started showing the “CAN BUS likely faulty cables” error after all the warnings pop up when the truck is turned on. It occasionally works but then suddenly a bunch of the “pre-collision unavailable” “lane centering unavailable” and other errors all show up on my dash and the same CAN BUS error then shows up.

Is this something I can fix with exceptionally limited skills/replacement or alternative parts? (I hesitate to modify the boards/anything with soldering as I couldn’t reliably say whether I had done something incorrectly versus a component failure)

basically, what do I do to get this to work?
 

Ajzride

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Might be a bit late to this. I have a 2024 lightning flash. Had the comma 3x previously in a 2021 Kia telluride. Worked fine in the Kia.

I just installed the 3x in the lightning, using the Q4 harness (2 of them actually as one was lost in the mail but showed up and I tried both cables).

Initially it worked after installing BluePilot 3.1, however it started showing the “CAN BUS likely faulty cables” error after all the warnings pop up when the truck is turned on. It occasionally works but then suddenly a bunch of the “pre-collision unavailable” “lane centering unavailable” and other errors all show up on my dash and the same CAN BUS error then shows up.

Is this something I can fix with exceptionally limited skills/replacement or alternative parts? (I hesitate to modify the boards/anything with soldering as I couldn’t reliably say whether I had done something incorrectly versus a component failure)

basically, what do I do to get this to work?
Sounds like a bad USB-C cable. Uncle Tony did some testing on the long USB-C cable supplied by Comma and it is very hard to seat fully. The first step is to unplug both ends of the USB-C cable and push them firmly until you hear them click.

If that fails:

Pull the comma on the windshield and connect it to the harness box under the dash using only the short 18" cable sent from comma and see if the radar errors go away.

Also, you should upgrade to bluepilot 4.0 (this is unrelated to the issue you are having to be clear, but 3.x is a buggy release tree)

https://bluepilot.dev/2025/07/25/bluepilot-4-0-release/
 
 







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