How can I get into the truck if the physical lock is broken and the 12V battery is dead?

[Chaldaean]

I bought a used 2024 Platinum with 10,000 miles in October and have driven it around 2,000 miles.

Like the title says, how can I get into the truck if the physical lock is broken and the 12V battery is dead?

Backstory:

(1) January 11th: Installed brand new DieHard H3-XEV battery as I had gotten the "Vehicle in Battery Saver Mode" message and this replacement would rule out a bad battery.

(2) January 24th - 28th: Went away on four day trip and left the truck plugged in at home.

(3) January 24th: The "Vehicle in Battery Saver Mode" message popped up which also said "Start your vehicle manually to access remote commands"

(4) January 25th: The App notified me that the frunk open and there was an "Opened hood triggered alarm". I reviewed video footage from a home surveillance camera and the there were definitely no intruders. Listening the audio in the surveillance footage, there was a "click" like the frunk was unlatching and then the lights on the truck started flashing (there was no audible alarm).

(5) January 27th: The App notified me that there was an "Alarm Triggered" and said "The F-150 security system has detected vehicle intrusion and triggered the alarm". There was no audible alarm. The App also reported a "Charging Error" that said "Pleas heck your vehicle or charge station for details".

(6) January 29th: Returned home from the trip and found the truck to be completely bricked/unresponsive. I could not unlock the doors from the app, the keyfob or the keypad. For some reason, the physical key does not work and the lock is broken (the key can turn 360 degrees in the lock). So, I can't open the door to use the manual frunk release in order to charge the 12V battery. I had a Ford Roadside tech onsite today and he couldn't get the truck unlocked (he used a wedge, an airbag door frame spreader and a pole/hook, but that was fruitless as all interior buttons are unresponsive due to the dead 12V battery). He also tried to use a SlimJim to pop the lock, but was unsuccessful. I can have it towed to the dealer, but since the tow truck driver can't get in the cab to put the put the truck in neutral, the truck would have to be dragged without the wheels spinning, which is not ideal.

I'd really like to get the door unlocked to avoid towing.

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[Grumpy2]

Are you sure the door isn't frozen by ice? can you push on the door and will it flex at all?

 

[DerMot]

I bought a used 2024 Platinum with 10,000 miles in October and have driven it around 2,000 miles.

Like the title says, how can I get into the truck if the physical lock is broken and the 12V battery is dead?

Backstory:

(1) January 11th: Installed brand new DieHard H3-XEV battery as I had gotten the "Vehicle in Battery Saver Mode" message and this replacement would rule out a bad battery.

(2) January 24th - 28th: Went away on four day trip and left the truck plugged in at home.

(3) January 24th: The "Vehicle in Battery Saver Mode" message popped up which also said "Start your vehicle manually to access remote commands"

(4) January 25th: The App notified me that the frunk open and there was an "Opened hood triggered alarm". I reviewed video footage from a home surveillance camera and the there were definitely no intruders. Listening the audio in the surveillance footage, there was a "click" like the frunk was unlatching and then the lights on the truck started flashing (there was no audible alarm).

(5) January 27th: The App notified me that there was an "Alarm Triggered" and said "The F-150 security system has detected vehicle intrusion and triggered the alarm". There was no audible alarm. The App also reported a "Charging Error" that said "Pleas heck your vehicle or charge station for details".

(6) January 29th: Returned home from the trip and found the truck to be completely bricked/unresponsive. I could not unlock the doors from the app, the keyfob or the keypad. For some reason, the physical key does not work and the lock is broken (the key can turn 360 degrees in the lock). So, I can't open the door to use the manual frunk release in order to charge the 12V battery. I had a Ford Roadside tech onsite today and he couldn't get the truck unlocked (he used a wedge, an airbag door frame spreader and a pole/hook, but that was fruitless as all interior buttons are unresponsive due to the dead 12V battery). He also tried to use a SlimJim to pop the lock, but was unsuccessful. I can have it towed to the dealer, but since the tow truck driver can't get in the cab to put the put the truck in neutral, the truck would have to be dragged without the wheels spinning, which is not ideal.

I'd really like to get the door unlocked to avoid towing.

When you replaced the LVB, did you reset the BMS on the truck?

 

[Chaldaean]

Are you sure the door isn't frozen by ice? can you push on the door and will it flex at all?

Good thought. I tried three things to rule out ice: (1) Hairdyer for 10 minutes, (2) Heat gun with higher temp than hairdryer for 10 minute and then I setup a "tent" with a spaceheater that delivered 80F (measured via thermocouple) for an hour and half. No luck...

 

[Chaldaean]

When you replaced the LVB, did you reset the BMS on the truck?

I did read that this was required and also read that keeping the battery disconnected for 30 minutes would do this - that is what I did. Is there another way to reset the BMS manually?

 

[DerMot]

Yes: To reset the BMS on a Ford F150 Lightning, turn the truck on to accessory mode, flash the headlights five times, and then press the brake pedal three times. The battery icon should flash three times to indicate a successful reset.

nice truck btw, I think we have the same one.

Also, the BMS is on the negative terminal of the battery -- when you test the battery or trickle charge it, you need to make sure you do it through the BMS vs. directly to the battery post (bypassing the BMS). This video explains / shows this on a Ford .... with the same system as the Lightning and Mach e.

 

[CRAIGC540]

Manual BMS Reset Sequence

1. Preparation: Sit in the driver's seat with all doors closed.
2. Accessory Mode: Press the Start button once without pressing the brake pedal. The dash/cluster should light up, but the truck should not be in "Ready to Drive" mode.
3. High Beam Flash: Within 10 seconds, pull the high beam stalk toward you 5 times quickly.
4. Brake Pedal Press: Immediately press and release the brake pedal 3 times quickly.
5. Verification: Wait about 5–10 seconds. The battery icon on your instrument cluster should flash 3 times to confirm the reset was successful.

Other Reset Options

• Software Reset: If the manual sequence doesn't work, you can use a diagnostic tool like FORScan or a compatible OBDII Scanner to command a "BMS Reset" through the software.
• Automatic Learning: If you cannot trigger the manual reset, Ford’s system will eventually "learn" the new state of charge on its own if the truck is left locked and untouched for at least 8 hours (typically overnight).

 

[B177y]

Here's a long shot spitball thought....

Does anyone know if the 7-pin trailer plug near the tow hitch has a 12-volt pin that is connected directly to the 12-volt battery or does it get switched on and off through a module? My thought is you can try to back feed 12 volt power through the trailer plug and at least get your doors open. I had an old F350 where the 7-pin plug 12-volt blade was always "live" and wired directly to the 12-volt battery, but that was a 25 year old truck.

You said you heard a click and saw lights flash on camera footage. Is the frunk ajar at all? Have you tried to manually lift it?

I also wonder if the intrusion alarm and frunk issue could indicate a rodent problem. You might have some chewed up harnesses, or maybe even a critter exploring your cab. With the truck parked outside and snow all around critters are trying to stay warm.

 

[chriserx]

Here's a long shot spitball thought....

Does anyone know if the 7-pin trailer plug near the tow hitch has a 12-volt pin that is connected directly to the 12-volt battery or does it get switched on and off through a module? My thought is you can try to back feed 12 volt power through the trailer plug and at least get your doors open. I had an old F350 where the 7-pin plug 12-volt blade was always "live" and wired directly to the 12-volt battery, but that was a 25 year old truck.

I was actually thinking along those lines myself, but was thinking closer to the battery and where all the cables lead but it was too dark to investigate atm. The trailer pins are certainly a good point to try and trickle charge the battery if it works. Considering the fact it detects a trailer plugged in, prepare for the possibility it might not work.

 

[B177y]

I was actually thinking along those lines myself, but was thinking closer to the battery and where all the cables lead but it was too dark to investigate atm. The trailer pins are certainly a good point to try and trickle charge the battery if it works. Considering the fact it detects a trailer plugged in, prepare for the possibility it might not work.

I edited my post to add on some thoughts of a possible rodent issue.

I like your thought about underneath. I just looked and a possibility is getting to the jump posts on the passenger side from the passenger front wheel well. Might have to jack it up, remove the front passenger wheel and the felt wheel well cover and access from there. Energize the posts and unlock the doors.

The center of the truck from underneath is rock shields, motor, and HVB, access looks difficult at best from there.

 

[Heliian]

Quick fix, Smash the right hand rear pax window. Probably the cheapest one.

The doors are incredibly simple and f150. The lock and doors are manual on this truck, you have incredibly bad luck or aren't doing it correctly.

Maybe a 3rd party locksmith can help?

 

[RickLightning]

Tech who tried to get in was incompetent.

 

[hturnerfamily]

a locksmith 'might' can assist, but since the 12v system is not functioning, the door 'button' to unlock the doors won't work, so the 'manual' door latch would have to be engaged, which might be difficult for where it's located....

one questions might be: how to get the FRUNK /HOOD unlatched/opened from the outside...
since there is a manual release inside the cab, it would seem that this is a physical CABLE that may be able to be located from underneath...

several years ago, my son's 2014 Nissan Leaf, with a similar hood latch mechanism, would not open, since his 12v battery had died. We searched and searched for a way to 'unlatch' his hood from the outside, and only eventually was able to get it unlatched and opened by reaching in a long way underneath the front valance, just barely able to grab the latch release mechanism enough to release it... and the car sits so low, you really have to jack up the front end to even slide underneath far enough to get a slim arm up in the area...feeling your way up to the latch area... not fun, but eventually successful.

why your driver door key lock is spinning, though, is a new one... it would seem o be able to be drilled out, as a last resort, maybe...

 

[riggie]

I guess I just assumed there were keyed locks on both front doors but maybe not?

 

[Dan C]

I would check the window availabilty. The rear might be cheaper but the drivers window is probably in stock

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