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Ticking from 12v battery compartment

alexose

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2023 Pro SR with 41000 miles. Everything's been perfect until today, when I noticed the following symptoms:

1. A wrench icon, with a "Powertrain malfunction / Reduced power" error message on the dash
2. Repetitive clicking emanating from the 12v battery compartment (see video)
3. Low voltage on the 12v battery. I measured 11.92 volts.

Anyone have a theory as to what's going on? I'm hoping it's just a bad 12v battery, but could it be something else?
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TaxmanHog

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Not normal, sounds like a relay cycling at a pace I've never heard.

Was the truck essential off, accessory mode or run mode?
 
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alexose

alexose

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Not normal, sounds like a relay cycling at a pace I've never heard.

Was the truck essential off, accessory mode or run mode?
It happens when the truck is off. I noticed it immediately after opening the driver's side door.

Charging via my Level 2 home charger also seems to trigger it.
 

Adventureboy

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I would first look at the 12v battery. If it is below 12v after driving the truck, that is suspect. It should be 12.5v or higher. Maybe take it to the dealer and have them test it. They'll replace it under warranty, probably.
Alternatively, put a decent charger (10-15 amps) on the battery and see if the clicking goes away. If it does go away, it again points to the 12v battery being low. Rule out the simple first :sunglasses:
FYI, I'm on my second battery already on my 2023 and it looks like it will need to be replaced soon. Baby battery.
 

RickLightning

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Sounds like the HVBJB to me.

Or, it's Ford's new Explosion Promise.

"Here at Ford, we want people excited about our vehicles. Therefore, in a random selection of vehicles, we've inserted explosives, which will go off on some random day, unexpectedly. Want a BANG for your buck? We at Ford will exceed your expectations."
 

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alexose

alexose

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HVBJB seems like a good bet. I'm keeping an eye on the battery voltage and it seems to be hovering around 12. So... that's something.

I got an appointment with the dealership on Monday, will post back with what I learn.
 

LiteNing

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Agree with everyone else to look at the 12V first.

What I read in another thread is that the charging strategy for the 12V is: Wait until SoC is 30% while vehicle is off (or 20% any time), then add <X> Wh of energy (where <X> should be enough to bring it back to 100%), then repeat.

If the SoC estimation is off or the current shunt module is out of spec then the 12V monitor might not keep the 12V charged (one of those would be my guess as the root cause).
 
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jallen

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2023 Pro SR with 41000 miles. Everything's been perfect until today, when I noticed the following symptoms:

1. A wrench icon, with a "Powertrain malfunction / Reduced power" error message on the dash
2. Repetitive clicking emanating from the 12v battery compartment (see video)
3. Low voltage on the 12v battery. I measured 11.92 volts.

Anyone have a theory as to what's going on? I'm hoping it's just a bad 12v battery, but could it be something else?
If it’s a loud clicking that occurs as soon as you open the door, and can hear it near the front drivers side wheel well as well, it’s the coolant valve that’s stuck. It is a very common problem and will set the wrench icon. I just had mine replaced. Let me know if you want more details. ForScan will tell you the exact issue instead of guessing.

Just watched video. It’s the coolant valve. I think your 12v is unrelated. It’s just to the right of the battery, that’s why it seems related.

Ford F-150 Lightning Ticking from 12v battery compartment IMG_6249


Ford F-150 Lightning Ticking from 12v battery compartment IMG_6254


Ford F-150 Lightning Ticking from 12v battery compartment IMG_5473
 
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alexose

alexose

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Coolant valve! Well, that would make sense. I should be getting it back from the dealership in about two hours, so we'll see :)
 

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alexose

alexose

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You were right-- The part that needs replacing is HV Battery Radiator Coolant Diverter Valve.

The crappy thing is that it's back ordered, ETA early June. I asked the tech if I can continue driving the truck around town which he said should be fine. I do have the Max Tow package so I wonder if that might help mitigate any cooling issues.

Also, the part + labor is quoted at $754 and is not covered under warranty. :(
 

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You were right-- The part that needs replacing is HV Battery Radiator Coolant Diverter Valve.

The crappy thing is that it's back ordered, ETA early June. I asked the tech if I can continue driving the truck around town which he said should be fine. I do have the Max Tow package so I wonder if that might help mitigate any cooling issues.

Also, the part + labor is quoted at $754 and is not covered under warranty. :(
The extra max tow compressor will pick up the excess heat that can not be dissipated by the radiator, so it's likely you will be ok, I hope the coolant flow is not completely inhibited by the malfunctioning diverter. You'll know if the motor or battery temp gauges show higher levels.

Did you run out the 3/36k standard warranty, not opting for an extension?
 

Ricks Lightning

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Looks like a pretty straight forward swap out 3 coolant lines, a wiring connector and a bracket. That $754. probably includes the diagnostics they performed.

Jallen posted the link for the valve at $98.27

Worth a shot to order it and if you have it in your hands, it would be pretty basic to see what and where the connections are at.

Rick
 

bmwhitetx

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You were right-- The part that needs replacing is HV Battery Radiator Coolant Diverter Valve.

The crappy thing is that it's back ordered, ETA early June. I asked the tech if I can continue driving the truck around town which he said should be fine. I do have the Max Tow package so I wonder if that might help mitigate any cooling issues.

Also, the part + labor is quoted at $754 and is not covered under warranty. :(
It appears that part is unique to the BEV drivetrain - it does not fit the Hybrid PowerBoost. So it should be covered by the 5 year/60,000 mile EV-specific power train warranty.

And the warranty says [bold added by me]:
(1) Your vehicle's Powertrain components are covered for five years or 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first. The extended Powertrain coverage applies to all components of the driveline that are not specifically covered by the Electric Vehicle Component warranty. Powertrain components that receive warranty coverage for five years or 60,000 miles may include gears, differential, shafts, fluid pumps, seals and gaskets, bearings, mounts, drive shaft, retainers, supports, universal and constant velocity joints.

In the shop manual, this part is in the Powertrain section. Here is a summary of the shop manual for the High Voltage Battery Radiator Coolant Diverter Valve:
1. If equipped. Remove the high voltage battery coolant cooler (Vehicles With: Max Trailer Tow).
2. Drain the electric drivetrain cooling system.
3. Remove the underhood storage compartment.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector and detach the wiring harness retainer.
5. Remove the bolts and position the radiator coolant diverter valve aside.
6. Release the clamps, disconnect the coolant hoses and remove the high voltage battery radiator coolant diverter valve.

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
2. Fill and bleed the electric drivetrain cooling system.
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