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That’s how I came to my decision. I have a 10 year old hardly used 5000/6500 watt gasoline generator. I installed a mechanical interlock safety (NFPA/NEC approved) from Siemens on my panel.
I have the same setup at my house with the mechanical interlock and a 30 amp inlet. Currently, I hook it up to a 8000 watt generator when needed and do old school load shedding by flipping breakers. I'm getting the 9.6kw power option so I can hook the truck up to that same inlet when needed as an additional option.
 

Tony Burgh

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I have the same setup at my house with the mechanical interlock and a 30 amp inlet. Currently, I hook it up to a 8000 watt generator when needed and do old school load shedding by flipping breakers. I'm getting the 9.6kw power option so I can hook the truck up to that same inlet when needed as an additional option.
As others have said, be careful with grounding causing faults. That’s the extent of what I know.
 
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As others have said, be careful with grounding causing faults. That’s the extent of what I know.
Any additional info to point to? The plug is a 4-pin, one of which is ground. Is there an issue with this on existing pro power solutions? I realize there's no real grounding rod going anywhere on a truck but figured they dealt with it somehow.
 

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Any additional info to point to? The plug is a 4-pin, one of which is ground. Is there an issue with this on existing pro power solutions? I realize there's no real grounding rod going anywhere on a truck but figured they dealt with it somehow.
I’ll see if I can find the reply I got on this forum that said I might have ground fault problems if I plug the 240 volt line from the truck into my electrical panel. It may involve splitting the 240 volt among several 120 volt home circuit.
 

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rtw819

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For sure? Where can I see more info on the box? Size, cord length, comm info
Tom actually mentions quite a bit about the Charge Station Pro specs throughout his video. The new charger (similar to the 48A charger) can be set to be used with as low as a 20A 240V breaker (instead of the default 100A). It is probably safe to assume it is a hardware limit setting, however, I'm hoping there is also a software configurable option to allow us to selectively further reduce the charge rate beyond whatever is set as the unit's hardware max current limit.

Here are a couple links that have been floating around on the specs released so far -- granted there are only a couple of pages we've seen so far, and there have been some mentions about potential gaps in the accuracy/consistency of some of the data:

https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/conten...ightning/pdf/Lightning_FCSP_Install_Specs.pdf

https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/conten...ning/pdf/FordChargeStationPro-Specs_06_v2.pdf

Another bit of interesting info I read in another one of Ford's press releases that the Charge Station Pro is made by Siemens. Not sure if that gives us any clue into information on what make/brand of gear they'll be using with the Home Integration Solution, though. The very short mention of Siemens was here in this note:

https://media.ford.com/content/fordmedia/fna/us/en/news/2022/02/02/f-150-lightning-power-play.html

Let's hope they keep releasing more info as we get closer to Spring.
 

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I'm bummed about not being able to use it with my Tesla because of a stupid piece of plastic. If I was more brave I'd cut it ;)
 

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I'm bummed about not being able to use it with my Tesla because of a stupid piece of plastic. If I was more brave I'd cut it ;)
Because the CCS part would be in the way? You can get a J1772 male to female extension cord to bypass this problem. eBay.
 

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Any additional info to point to? The plug is a 4-pin, one of which is ground. Is there an issue with this on existing pro power solutions? I realize there's no real grounding rod going anywhere on a truck but figured they dealt with it somehow.
There’s a (very) lengthy discussion of this on the Powerboost forum on this site. Gist of it: it’ll work IF you disconnect the ground wire on the plug you’ll be plugging into the truck. Otherwise the truck’s internal GFCI will detect a ground fault and trip. Electricians hate it because the truck will not be properly grounded and in violation of the NEC. All this is based on the (most likely correct) assumption that the Lightning will have the same setup as the Powerboost.
 

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I assume that if I buy the Ford version of the 48A for my XLT SR, it will be the equivalent of the charger they already sell for the Mach-E? If that is the case, does anyone have first hand experience with these chargers? Is there a reason it costs $799, which would make it one of, if not the most, expensive charger on the market?

I paid $550 for my Tesla Wall Connector 48A charger and it works perfectly. I'm trying to understand what you're getting for a $250 premium with Ford. I'm leaning towards sticking with what I know and getting a 2nd Tesla Wall Connector and buying an adapter for 48A service to my new XLR SR. Adding the cost of the adapter would bring my total price in line with the Ford charger, but then I could use the charger for both EVs I'll own.
 

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Because the CCS part would be in the way? You can get a J1772 male to female extension cord to bypass this problem. eBay.
Not really finding much... guess I need to keep looking.
 

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I assume that if I buy the Ford version of the 48A for my XLT SR, it will be the equivalent of the charger they already sell for the Mach-E? If that is the case, does anyone have first hand experience with these chargers? Is there a reason it costs $799, which would make it one of, if not the most, expensive charger on the market?

I paid $550 for my Tesla Wall Connector 48A charger and it works perfectly. I'm trying to understand what you're getting for a $250 premium with Ford. I'm leaning towards sticking with what I know and getting a 2nd Tesla Wall Connector and buying an adapter for 48A service to my new XLR SR. Adding the cost of the adapter would bring my total price in line with the Ford charger, but then I could use the charger for both EVs I'll own.
I’m using the Ford Connected Charge Station with my Mach-E. It works fine, but is easily $200 more expensive than other brands with equal or better features.
But it’s nowhere near the most expensive on the market. A Bosch costs more than double the FCCS!
https://www.boschevsolutions.com/charging-stations/ev810?sku=EL-50600-D
 

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Hi Tom,
Thanks for the great information. I have a question. If I have 24 solar panels installed (suppose to be a 9Kw+ system), is there any way to charge the truck without powering the home? I saw what you mentioned about the Sunrun can not do both at the same time. Thanks in advance for the answer.
Does your solar system already have a lockout switch and an outlet on the panel near your inverter? mine has one so I can power a fridge or some other emergency device during the day if needed during a power outage. I could also charge the truck but it would just be level 1, 120v so pretty slow.
 

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I'm bummed about not being able to use it with my Tesla because of a stupid piece of plastic. If I was more brave I'd cut it ;)
I'm still hoping for reality being that the standard unit that ships with ER Lightnings will have a true J1772 end, and then the "home integration kit" will include a different cord/connector with the CCS end. My Chargepoint has a field-installed cable/connector anyway - not sure if all EVSE ship this way. At least on the Chargepoint, a different cord is super simple to install.
 

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I assume that if I buy the Ford version of the 48A for my XLT SR, it will be the equivalent of the charger they already sell for the Mach-E? If that is the case, does anyone have first hand experience with these chargers? Is there a reason it costs $799, which would make it one of, if not the most, expensive charger on the market?

I paid $550 for my Tesla Wall Connector 48A charger and it works perfectly. I'm trying to understand what you're getting for a $250 premium with Ford. I'm leaning towards sticking with what I know and getting a 2nd Tesla Wall Connector and buying an adapter for 48A service to my new XLR SR. Adding the cost of the adapter would bring my total price in line with the Ford charger, but then I could use the charger for both EVs I'll own.
The only possible advantages of FCCS are the possibility of including it in the loan, using the same app as the car, using FordPass points to pay for it. You can decide if any of these are important to you. I bough ChargePoint Flex because it was $150 cheaper and available before the car got here. It turned out to be be a smart choice because FCCS was initially delayed for months and many early versions had problems. Those got resolved. ChargePoint still has the advantage of the same charger capable of hardwiring and plug in. It also lets you change the amps through software and not dip switches.

Knowing what I know now, I would have gotten Wallbox Pulsar because of circuit sharing capability. I suggest that you watch various @tommolog videos reviewing pros and cons of many chargers.

Rather than buying a Tesla charger and a TeslaTap adapter, wouldn't it be better to get a J1772 and use a relatively cheap Tesla adapter (which is already included with each Tesla)? TeslaTap does come in handy if you need to use Tesla Destination chargers.
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