Faster level 1 charging

[JoshF150]

Has anyone tried a faster level 1 charger or have another suggestion on how to get faster at home charging without installing a new 240 circuit? cheapest quote I have gotten for that so far is $800 so I’d like another option. If I could get 3-5 miles added per hour that would be all I needed

Sponsored

 

[RickLightning]

Has anyone tried a faster level 1 charger or have another suggestion on how to get faster at home charging without installing a new 240 circuit? cheapest quote I have gotten for that so far is $800 so I’d like another option. If I could get 3-5 miles added per hour that would be all I needed

Not possible.

Level 1 charging is limited to 1.4kW, which turns into about 1.1 net to the vehicle. No matter what you buy, that's all you'll get. The VEHICLE limits this, not the charger, which is basically a power cord.

 

[Grease Lightning]

Has anyone tried a faster level 1 charger or have another suggestion on how to get faster at home charging without installing a new 240 circuit? cheapest quote I have gotten for that so far is $800 so I’d like another option. If I could get 3-5 miles added per hour that would be all I needed

The best “cheap” install that would get you is a Level 2 at 16 amps. That requires a 12 awg “romex” wire and a twin 20 amp breakers with the joiner bar. This arrangement can be in a single breaker slot configuration if you have a limited breaker box, but you will have to tandem the adjacent 120v lines to free up a spot. You would run a NEMA 6-20R receptacle.

Schumacher sells one portable charger outright and what I have been using for my Lightning most days.

You can also use the Tesla portable charger and buy the separate NEMA 6-20p end. The Tesla route will also cause you to always use an NACS adapter.

If you have two breaker spots open, you can also use pretty much any charger set to 32 amps on a 40 amp breaker.

I picked up the new Anker one on Amazon and I think it is currently going for $250. That is my new charger for the truck since my daughter bought an EV too.

 

[Maquis]

The best “cheap” install that would get you is a Level 2 at 16 amps. That requires a 12 awg “romex” wire and a twin 20 amp breakers with the joiner bar. This arrangement can be in a single breaker slot configuration if you have a limited breaker box. You would run a NEMA 6-20R receptacle.

Schumacher sells one portable charger outright and what I have been using for my Lightning most days.

You can also use the Tesla portable charger and buy the separate NEMA 6-20p end. The Tesla route will also cause you to always use an NACS adapter.

If you have two breaker spots open, you can also use pretty much any charger set to 32 amps on a 40 amp breaker.

I picked up the new Anker one on Amazon and I think it is currently going for $250. That is my new charger for the truck since my daughter bought an EV too.

Most modern panels cannot get a 240V circuit form a single tamden breaker. The design only has access to one bus.

 

[Maquis]

It is always ideal to take from both phases, but you can pull both 20 amp “phases” from a single bus. Not all panels are a split bus approach, so it happens more than most know it even with a double pole breaker.

90% of panels sold today are either Schneider, Eaton, GE, or Siemens. Not possible on any of them.

 

[Grease Lightning]

90% of panels sold today are either Schneider, Eaton, GE, or Siemens. Not possible on any of them.

Pretty sure if the OP was installing a new panel, he wouldn’t be asking a path for a cheaper and still NEC compliant install.

 

[JoshF150]

I have a 5 year old house with a 200 amp Siemens panel

 

[Grease Lightning]

I have a 5 year old house with a 200 amp Siemens panel

In that case you would use a double pole breaker so you are pulling from each phase.

 

[HHI-Lightning]

90% of panels sold today are either Schneider, Eaton, GE, or Siemens. Not possible on any of them.

This isn’t actually correct. It “is” possible on these panels to insert a double pole breaker.

On a GE panel, for example, you can install up to 50A double pole “mini” breaker. If you use install this as “normally” done, by default the breaker would pull power on both legs from the same bus, giving you just 120v. Not what you want! Instead, you have to install the breaker so that it is half way in one slot and half way in the adjacent slot, thus shifting the breaker to pull from 2 different bus bars.

This works and it perfectly safe (electrically).

 

[MichaelCA]

Consider this if you have a dryer outlet nearby: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Charging-Integration-Automatic-Real-time/dp/B0CSFJPMXL/

 

[Newton]

Your state might have a program to help with the costs for installing an EVSE circuit. It really shouldn't be that expensive if the electrical panel is anywhere near where you want to charge, but unfortunately when you say "EV" the costs double. Tell the next electrician that you need a plug to install a 240V table saw...

 

[TaxmanHog]

Tell the next electrician that you need a plug to install a 240V table saw...

In accurate requirements might get you a cheaper "intermittent duty" 14-50 outlet when our continuous duty EVSE's would benefit from a durable version.

 

[Toby57]

$800 for a 240 volt circuit put in your house is a good enough price.
Pay them. Have it done right.

 

[HHI-Lightning]

If you are having an electrician put in a new circuit, I’d strongly encourage you to make it a 100 amp circuit, thereby making the electrical wiring capable of handling the Charge Station Pro.

If that’s overkill, or if your local electric code requires a disconnect switch that you don’t want to have installed, then bring your circuit down to 60 amps. You can derate the Charge Station Pro to stay under 60 amps. This would allow for smaller wires (and lower cost).

So even if you never intend to purchase a Charge Station Pro, your electric would be setup for any future vehicle charging needs that may come along.

This isn’t particularly difficult. You need a breaker ($50-75). Receptacle (if you want to use the mobile charger) ($25). And 3 AWG wire ($$ depends on the length of run and whether conduit exists or is needed). This is where the costs can get driven up quickly.

The last consideration is your electric panel’s capacity - and no, you don’t just add up the individual breaker amps and compare them to the main breaker amperage.

if your electric main panel is in the garage, and somewhat current generation, then adding a 100 amp breaker wired to a receptacle or hardwired charger that is close (on the same wall as the panel) should be less than $500 (hardware and labor).

 

[WilliamRobert]

The last time I bought wire, 125 feet 8 gauge wire was almost $500. So to have someone install for $800 is a good price. Make sure you get a industrial rated receptacle.
Check around for rebate programs, in Pennsylvania there is a program that will pay for the install. Also check for IRS rebate programs.
https://www.anl.gov/esia/refueling-infrastructure-tax-credit

Sponsored