Lightning Software Updates using FDRS

[Mike G]

Wonder if there is some issue with the latest APIM update and they want to stop distribution? That was the karaoke one, right?

It is, yes. It seems to be working fine on both my car and truck..so who knows?

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[Katonah Mike]

Is there anyone in the NYC area that has FDRS that provides this to others as a service (if that is even possible)? I am very behind on updates and every time I take it to the dealer they tell me that I am all up to date and don't want to do anything. I know I am not because I am not seeing the SoC displayed on the instrument cluster - mine is still 100 and 0. Or am I best off paying for the cord and a license and doing this myself?

 

[SpaceEVDriver]

I have an almost 3,000 mile trip coming up. I'd really like the Google Maps SoC integration, but it hasn't shown up yet. Being my impatient self, I guess I'll need to spend an afternoon updating via FDRS. Sigh.

 

[ChrisCon]

Is there anyone in the NYC area that has FDRS that provides this to others as a service (if that is even possible)? I am very behind on updates and every time I take it to the dealer they tell me that I am all up to date and don't want to do anything. I know I am not because I am not seeing the SoC displayed on the instrument cluster - mine is still 100 and 0. Or am I best off paying for the cord and a license and doing this myself?

I live out in The Hamptons and I'll do it for you if you feel like driving out this way . PM me your vin and I can give you a guesstimate on how long it will take.

 

[starrtech2000]

So I killed my 12 volt about 75% through an IPMA update…
I have a Solar Pro-Logix 20amp power supply that I thought was plenty for keeping the voltage up but guess I was wrong…

Now I’ve just had it sitting here trying to charge the battery but it seems to be hovering at 6.3-6.5 volts and not going up. It’s plugged into a 15amp circuit since that’s all I’ve got in the garage. The tail lights are flickering…

so, what’s my next step here? Did I brick the truck and need it towed?

can I buy a battery charger that will revive this? Will I not be able to because I don’t have a bigger amperage circuit to use?

 

[ChrisCon]

So I killed my 12 volt about 75% through an IPMA update…
I have a Solar Pro-Logix 20amp power supply that I thought was plenty for keeping the voltage up but guess I was wrong…

Just let it sit on that charger for a few hours. You won't need to be towed . It will just fail the update . Those IPMAs are killers to the battery . In the future , it's possible to get through an update with a battery tender like that if you make sure all lights are off and any accessories and you pre charge the battery to 100% before starting. I've ended up a couple IPMA updates at 9.3 volts before I got a better battery tender.

Feel free to text me if you need some real time advice. Your truck may make some strange noises as the 12v battery regains a charge.
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[PJnc284]

So I killed my 12 volt about 75% through an IPMA update…
I have a Solar Pro-Logix 20amp power supply that I thought was plenty for keeping the voltage up but guess I was wrong…

yeah, a single 20amp is like playing with fire. Think I saw close to 60 amps being pulled for an extended period. I'm using a Powermax pmbc-75 (75amp max) but others have had good luck with the Clore PL6100 (20amp plug so would require an adapter) and Schumacher INC100.

 

[bmwhitetx]

So I killed my 12 volt about 75% through an IPMA update…
I have a Solar Pro-Logix 20amp power supply that I thought was plenty for keeping the voltage up but guess I was wrong…

Now I’ve just had it sitting here trying to charge the battery but it seems to be hovering at 6.3-6.5 volts and not going up. It’s plugged into a 15amp circuit since that’s all I’ve got in the garage. The tail lights are flickering…

so, what’s my next step here? Did I brick the truck and need it towed?

can I buy a battery charger that will revive this? Will I not be able to because I don’t have a bigger amperage circuit to use?

FYI, you are confusing your input and output amps. Your Pro-Logix puts out up to 20 amps at 14.1 volts DC in power supply mode (when programming you were in power supply mode right?). But from the wall outlet perspective, the input of the charger is using less than 5 amps at 120-125 volts. I have that battery charger and it's input requirements are 120V, 5.2A max.

There are some high amperage battery power supplies (75+ amps) that require a 20-amp outlet but many don't. There are posts in this thread that discuss various power supplies you can use and the few that require a 20-amp circuit.

To revive your battery put it in battery charger mode (AGM, 20A, 12V) and let it run overnight.

 

[starrtech2000]

FYI, you are confusing your input and output amps. Your Pro-Logix puts out up to 20 amps at 14.1 volts DC in power supply mode (when programming you were in power supply mode right?). But from the wall outlet perspective, the input of the charger is using less than 5 amps at 120-125 volts. I have that battery charger and it's input requirements are 120V, 5.2A max.

There are some high amperage battery power supplies (75+ amps) that require a 20-amp outlet but many don't. There are posts in this thread that discuss various power supplies you can use and the few that require a 20-amp circuit.

To revive your battery put it in battery charger mode (AGM, 20A, 12V) and let it run overnight.

Thank you for clearing those things up for me!

Wasn’t thinking straight about how the charger converts AC to DC… Dumb of me.

So, I actually wasn’t using the power supply mode because the instruction manual says do not use that for reprogramming modules. Which I found very confusing. It would seem to me that I should use the power supply mode if the battery has been charged to 100% beforehand.

 

[Mike G]

yeah, a single 20amp is like playing with fire. Think I saw close to 60 amps being pulled for an extended period. I'm using a Powermax pmbc-75 (75amp max) but others have had good luck with the Clore PL6100 (20amp plug so would require an adapter) and Schumacher INC100.

The Clore PL6100 is actually used in many Ford shops.

 

[Scorpio3d]

So I killed my 12 volt about 75% through an IPMA update…
I have a Solar Pro-Logix 20amp power supply that I thought was plenty for keeping the voltage up but guess I was wrong…

Now I’ve just had it sitting here trying to charge the battery but it seems to be hovering at 6.3-6.5 volts and not going up. It’s plugged into a 15amp circuit since that’s all I’ve got in the garage. The tail lights are flickering…

so, what’s my next step here? Did I brick the truck and need it towed?

can I buy a battery charger that will revive this? Will I not be able to because I don’t have a bigger amperage circuit to use?

Did the update complete?
If it did not just rerun the update once you get the battery charged back up and either get that one set properly or get one that will work!
I did the same thing (posted about it somewhere on this forum)and I did brick my truck as the update was not able to complete before killing my battery so I feel your pain.

 

[starrtech2000]

I was doing fine with updates and was able to complete the big IPMA but then I was doing some smaller updates and the Ford login page started popping up telling me to login... I tried entering my credetntials and it just kept popping up the same screen after I hit submit.

Tried exiting and reopening FDRS and when I go to login, it pops up the Ford login screen but keeps reloading the screen no matter how many times I hit submit.

I checked that my credentials are still fine by logging into Ford on their website. Any ideas on this one?

ALSO, with 3 or 4 of the updates I was trying to do I got a "Unable to communicate with the vehicle. Check the cable connections and ensure the ignition is switch on. Would you like to retry?" Retrying got the same error. This only happened with a couple of specific updates for some reason and I was able to do others...

 

[ChrisCon]

I was doing fine with updates and was able to complete the big IPMA but then I was doing some smaller updates and the Ford login page started popping up telling me to login... I tried entering my credetntials and it just kept popping up the same screen after I hit submit.

Tried exiting and reopening FDRS and when I go to login, it pops up the Ford login screen but keeps reloading the screen no matter how many times I hit submit.

What you do is enter the your password and login in , then when it pops back up, click forgot password and then you will get a blank web page with browser info . Click return to original page on the blank page and it goes away.

 

[Mike G]

What you do is enter the your password and login in , then when it pops back up, click forgot password and then you will get a blank web page with browser info . Click return to original page on the blank page and it goes away.

What he's experiencing is what happens if you've logged on to FDRS and you're actually still logged on and working when your daily login timeout expires.

When this happens (at least with 41.5.6) you will have to completely close FDRS. Wait about 30 seconds and then reopen the program and log in again.

I've done this many times...and that login dialog page will just keep coming back up until you finally give up and close the program completely and start over.

 

[Mike G]

And yesterday FDRS 42.5.6 was released.

So no more spamming the 're-run network test' to see if new updates show up I guess.

Also since this is a major (41. to 42.) update remember to tick the box for 'remove user settings' during setup so you don't end up with weird results. They may have changed some of the layout internally.

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