No Heat in Cabin - Service Vehicle Soon Light - Powertrain Warning in App

[ace-rockola]

50k miles on my 2023 Lariat ER with no issues. Got in the truck yesterday after remote starting through the app and noticed it didn't seem very warm. Started it and got the orange wrench "service vehicle soon". I had a work meeting so I decided to take my chances and drive in. It had 100% power and no driving issues, just the wrench icon and the fans blow with no heat.

The next time I started it, I got a the "power train/reduced power" message in the app but still no driving performance issues, still no heat.

I ran an OBD scanner but don't fully understand what to look for in the codes (attached).

Working on finding a time to get it in for service. Anyone had this? Is this a shifter thing?

I preemptively bought a rotary shifter several weeks ago but just ordered the base for it on Etsy.

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[TaxmanHog]

Your PTC heater or your diverter valve is probably malfunctioning, with the onset of cold weather your truck is warning you in not so subtle ways that charging may become an issue in colder conditions (Sub Freezing)

 

[flyct]

The 2 DTC Codes listed that are not archived codes both go back to HV Battery issue

Being that heater isn't working right perhaps the Coolant Valve is suspect.
P0D1B Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Coolant Control Valve V Performance/Stuck OFF
https://carpm.in/codes/dtcs/p0d1b

https://www.obdiicode.com/what-is-o...-ev-battery-voltage-external-isolation-fault/

 

[TaxmanHog]

When you have time, please update your vehicle information now that you have your '23 Lightning.

 

[ace-rockola]

Your PTC heater or your diverter valve is probably malfunctioning, with the onset of cold weather your truck is warning you in not so subtle ways that charging may become an issue in colder conditions (Sub Freezing)

Thanks for the advice. That does make sense. I'm in Minnesota and we have had a few nights where temps are near freezing in the past week or so. I usually park it in an insulated garage but I've got some stuff stored in there at the moment so it's been outside (usually plugged in) overnight. Maybe that has been enough to kick off the fault codes?

I'm bringing it in on Monday. Hopefully it's not as bad as it sounds!

 

[chl]

Ditto the above about the valve.

But I'm also wondering if there is a bad wire/connection somewhere related to the control circuit which is also one of the possibilities for the code P0D1B that can cause a bad/stuck valve.

There is the question of a weak 12V battery - since you had a U0100(00) archived code which could indicate a weak 12V battery. But that could be faulty wiring as well.

An obvious question: I assume you have adequate coolant in the reservoir? No coolant, no heat, and possibly causing those other codes.

If you have coolant, and there is no obvious sign of wiring issues (like evidence a rodent has been chewing on things as some have seen inside the battery compartment and elsewhere) then I'd bet on the stuck valve.

But I think you need Ford service to check things out if there is nothing obvious.

 

[Joe Dablock]

My 23 XLT lost heat and it ended up being the unit under the dash and the estimate was $2700 (est). I did some research and discovered the part was recalled but recall covered up to August 2023 and my truck was built September 2023. After talking with Ford explaining that my truck only missed the recall by days, they offered to pay 70 percent, which I gladly accepted.

Also, my shifter has been replaced under recall and the new part failed and it was replaced again for free.

At 49k, even with these two glitches, I’m thrilled with the truck and Ford has treated me fairly.

So, the only repair cost in 49k miles was $900, so I'm quite satisfied. I will need to buy a set of tires in the next 15k miles. Tires wise, I'm doing much better than most. My tires are good enough to drive into this Pennsylvania winter.

 

[ace-rockola]

The 2 DTC Codes listed that are not archived codes both go back to HV Battery issue

Being that heater isn't working right perhaps the Coolant Valve is suspect.
P0D1B Hybrid/EV Battery Pack Coolant Control Valve V Performance/Stuck OFF
https://carpm.in/codes/dtcs/p0d1b

https://www.obdiicode.com/what-is-o...-ev-battery-voltage-external-isolation-fault/

Thanks for digging into it. I'm bringing it in tomorrow for diagnosis and will make some of the suggestions from here, if they're willing to listen. Good news is I have the Ford extended warranty!

 

[ace-rockola]

Ditto the above about the valve.

But I'm also wondering if there is a bad wire/connection somewhere related to the control circuit which is also one of the possibilities for the code P0D1B that can cause a bad/stuck valve.

There is the question of a weak 12V battery - since you had a U0100(00) archived code which could indicate a weak 12V battery. But that could be faulty wiring as well.

An obvious question: I assume you have adequate coolant in the reservoir? No coolant, no heat, and possibly causing those other codes.

If you have coolant, and there is no obvious sign of wiring issues (like evidence a rodent has been chewing on things as some have seen inside the battery compartment and elsewhere) then I'd bet on the stuck valve.

But I think you need Ford service to check things out if there is nothing obvious.

Thank you. I'm bringing it in tomorrow to get it checked out. I appreciate your suggestions. I'll update the thread when I have more info. Thank goodness I have the extended warranty, so it shouldn't be too painful.

 

[chl]

Thank you. I'm bringing it in tomorrow to get it checked out. I appreciate your suggestions. I'll update the thread when I have more info. Thank goodness I have the extended warranty, so it shouldn't be too painful.

Yes, knowing as much as possible about these glitches and their solutions is helpful to all of us Lightning owners!

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