SunRun Price for Charger and Home Integration System Installation

[greenne]

Think my plan now is to just buy a Chargepoint Flex. Probably cost $400 - $500 to install that with a 60 amp breaker. 48 amps should be enough charging for me. I'll probably just sell the Ford Pro Station on ebay for hopefully $1k and come close to breaking even.

Me too. 40-48A is enough for me. I have a whole home natural gas(in line) generator for the 3-4x per time my power goes out. Just can't justify the cost for Ford backup power and/or 80A charger. FWIW my house is 1980s colonial style....the circuit breakers are on the opposite side of the house of the garage-- that would be an expensive 30-40ft run to install an 80A charger.

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[beatle]

Will need to see if the 9.6kw ProPower on the Lightning will be neutral bonded like the 7.2kw on the PB. If so that’ll kill that plan unless you want to skip the ground and have it wired in a somewhat questionable manner.

Good input here. I didn't know that. Here are some relevant threads about it:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...st-with-bonded-neutral-to-power-house.479627/

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/installed-transfer-switch-in-house.1267/

I'm thinking a transfer switch that works with a bonded neutral will be the way to go vs. a generator interlock.

 

[hellb0y]

My brother is an electrician. He's going to install a manual interlock and power inlet at my house. For the 1-2 times/year I need it, I'll connect a 30A RV extension cord from the house's inlet to the 240v outlet in the truck bed then flip the interlock. For most homes, the equipment and install should cost less than $1,000.

Yep...and you could still connect your Lightning to it if you needed as well...

I installed this a week or so ago: http://www.generlink.com super clean set up and it looks great.

 

[Ruination]

Good input here. I didn't know that. Here are some relevant threads about it:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...st-with-bonded-neutral-to-power-house.479627/

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/installed-transfer-switch-in-house.1267/

I'm thinking a transfer switch that works with a bonded neutral will be the way to go vs. a generator interlock.

Is there not a difference between generated power and stored power?

 

[petemill]

Yep...and you could still connect your Lightning to it if you needed as well...

I installed this a week or so ago: http://www.generlink.com super clean set up and it looks great.

Looks like Generlink is not compatible with the GFCI of the Powerboost and we could assume the Lightning will be the same OHSA-approved setup.

 

[hellb0y]

Looks like Generlink is not compatible with the GFCI of the Powerboost and we could assume the Lightning will be the same OHSA-approved setup.

The Lightning plug won't know - it's a 30A generator plug in the bed...it will provide power

 

[VTbuckeye]

The Lightning plug won't know - it's a 30A generator plug in the bed...it will provide power

A generator plug with bonded neutral and GFCI. Check the power boost forum. If set up the same you will need a transfer switch that breaks the neutral. With the power boost neutral is bonded in the truck and the neutral ground bond in the house main panel is seen as a ground fault by the truck. It is set up for OSHA standards on a job site,not nec wiring standards for the home.

 

[adoublee]

The plug and jumper from bed outlets is definitely going to be the lowest cost entry to a respectable amount of back-up power.

A notable difference between that and the fully integrated home system is that you can use up to 3.6kW per two legs of the 240V outlet. If you run a 240V appliance or appliances, it will be putting half of it's power on each of the two legs, limiting the amount of extra available per leg for the two 120V legs. Most people do not know what leg/phase each 120V outlet in the home is on, so just something to be aware of if going this route.

Alternatively, the home back-up system should allow as much as much as 7.2kW per 120V leg, with total of two legs up to 9.6kW. This is enabled by the autotransformer integrated into the WHB device included in the HIS package. A potentially important differentiator if attempting to use the truck for longer duration separations from the grid.

 

[petemill]

The Lightning plug won't know - it's a 30A generator plug in the bed...it will provide power

The same 30A "generator" plug in my Powerboost will shut down the generator if you plug it in to your socket like that and provide a "ground fault" error on the screen. It will only work if you don't connect the ground wire in your cable from the truck to the inlet. But that apparently runs the risk of explosions should there be a short.

 

[Tony Burgh]

I have a Power Stroke 5kw generator, bonded neutral at frame and no gfci on 240v receptacle. I looked at Harbor Freight Predator generators. Same set up. Must be a reason for no gfci on 240v.

 

[millim]

We are having solar installed this be summer. At the same time we will have our electric service upgraded to 200 amp from 100 amp. Ideally, they keep the 100 amp panel in the basement and put the 200amp panel in the garage where the service enters the house. The current wiring from service entrance to main panel could go from 200amp panel to old main panel. The 200 amp panel could then contain all of the evse circuits (freeing spaces in an otherwise full panel). We would also have the capacity to add a heat pump in the future. It will also free up capacity for a battery backup system in the basement if we choose to go that way.

Not sure how well they'll play together, but if you're changing out your panel might be worth checking out Span. Looks pretty sweet.

https://www.span.io/

 

[Texas Dan]

I have a 32 amp Siemens EV charger in my garage that I bought from Home Depot and installed myself. I simply pulled out the breaker for the clothes dryer circuit and install a bigger 40 amp breaker for the EV charger and ran the correctly sized wires to the EV charger. I’m a licensed engineer, so installing an EV charger is something I felt comfortable with.

I have a 150 amp panel and I have been investigating if I could put the Ford Pro charger on it. The Ford Pro charger requires a 100 amp breaker but it only draws 80 amps of power. The only real loads I have on my panel right now besides the 32 amp EV charger are two air-conditioning condenser units and an electric range/oven.

The two air-conditioning condenser units only draw a maximum of 20 and 22 amps respectively. The range/oven is rated at 14 kW or 58 amps but it’s on a 40 amp breaker and it has never popped its’ breaker. The range/oven has nine heating elements and every one of them would have to be turned on at exactly the same to get anywhere near the peak power rating.

I feel comfortable that I could install a 100 amp breaker in my existing panel to run the Ford Pro charger and hardly, if ever, have any issues with overloading circuits. Running the two condensers full out (42 amps) while charging the Ford Pro charger (80 amps) would still leave 28 amps for lights and electronics plus a few heating elements of the range/oven. The worst that would happen if I did overload the main panel is that the main panel circuit breaker would pop requiring me to turn off a few circuits and restart the breaker.

The issue gets a little more complicated when I start thinking about backup power. If I forgo the Sunrun Home Integration System, I can still use the F150L’s 9.6 kW power supply (about 40 amps) to power most of the house.

With 40 amps I could run at least one of the AC compressors and pretty much everything else as long as I didn’t load up the range/oven too much. I have a gas B-B-Q grille that would allow me to completely avoid using the range/oven but only using one AC compressor really wouldn’t work during the hottest days of the year. Since I have gas furnaces, 9.6 kW would be plenty of backup power for most of the year including during extreme cold conditions when we get most of our power outages.

I can get a 50 amp transfer switch with 10 sub-circuits on Amazon for around $500. It would be a considerable amount of work moving all the critical loads from the main panel to the sub panel/transfer switch. I can also get a 40 amp transfer switch for about $800 from Home Depot that installs directly in the meter box, which would save a lot of work but would require me to coordinate with my utility company to put a transfer switch in their box.

So is it worth $9,000 to have Sunrun install the Ford Pro charger with Sunrun’s Home Integration System. There are definitely a lot less expensive alternatives but there are advantages that would be hard to get without Sunrun. The five biggest advantages I see are not having to figure out the Ford Pro charger and backup power installation for myself, the ability to have almost the full 80 amps of backup power, the ability to remotely turn the transfer switch on and off, the ability to remotely monitor charging and backup power and ability to integrate a solar power system.

One thing I should mention is that the 80 amp inverter that comes in the Sunrun Home Integration System could easily cost me $4,000 if I tried to build my own 80 amp bi-directional system. When I start looking at all these advantages the questions changes from is the Sunrun system worth it to can I afford the Sunrun system? If I was looking at getting the least expensive F150L I could, then I would probably say that the Sunrun system cost too much but, since I’m willing to justify buying the much more expensive Lariat trim, I will be looking for a way to pay for the Sunrun system.

 

[adoublee]

I have a 32 amp Siemens EV charger in my garage that I bought from Home Depot and installed myself. I simply pulled out the breaker for the clothes dryer circuit and install a bigger 40 amp breaker for the EV charger and ran the correctly sized wires to the EV charger. I’m a licensed engineer, so installing an EV charger is something I felt comfortable with.

I have a 150 amp panel and I have been investigating if I could put the Ford Pro charger on it. The Ford Pro charger requires a 100 amp breaker but it only draws 80 amps of power. The only real loads I have on my panel right now besides the 32 amp EV charger are two air-conditioning condenser units and an electric range/oven.

The two air-conditioning condenser units only draw a maximum of 20 and 22 amps respectively. The range/oven is rated at 14 kW or 58 amps but it’s on a 40 amp breaker and it has never popped its’ breaker. The range/oven has nine heating elements and every one of them would have to be turned on at exactly the same to get anywhere near the peak power rating.

I feel comfortable that I could install a 100 amp breaker in my existing panel to run the Ford Pro charger and hardly, if ever, have any issues with overloading circuits. Running the two condensers full out (42 amps) while charging the Ford Pro charger (80 amps) would still leave 28 amps for lights and electronics plus a few heating elements of the range/oven. The worst that would happen if I did overload the main panel is that the main panel circuit breaker would pop requiring me to turn off a few circuits and restart the breaker.

The issue gets a little more complicated when I start thinking about backup power. If I forgo the Sunrun Home Integration System, I can still use the F150L’s 9.6 kW power supply (about 40 amps) to power most of the house.

With 40 amps I could run at least one of the AC compressors and pretty much everything else as long as I didn’t load up the range/oven too much. I have a gas B-B-Q grille that would allow me to completely avoid using the range/oven but only using one AC compressor really wouldn’t work during the hottest days of the year. Since I have gas furnaces, 9.6 kW would be plenty of backup power for most of the year including during extreme cold conditions when we get most of our power outages.

I can get a 50 amp transfer switch with 10 sub-circuits on Amazon for around $500. It would be a considerable amount of work moving all the critical loads from the main panel to the sub panel/transfer switch. I can also get a 40 amp transfer switch for about $800 from Home Depot that installs directly in the meter box, which would save a lot of work but would require me to coordinate with my utility company to put a transfer switch in their box.

So is it worth $9,000 to have Sunrun install the Ford Pro charger with Sunrun’s Home Integration System. There are definitely a lot less expensive alternatives but there are advantages that would be hard to get without Sunrun. The five biggest advantages I see are not having to figure out the Ford Pro charger and backup power installation for myself, the ability to have almost the full 80 amps of backup power, the ability to remotely turn the transfer switch on and off, the ability to remotely monitor charging and backup power and ability to integrate a solar power system.

One thing I should mention is that the 80 amp inverter that comes in the Sunrun Home Integration System could easily cost me $4,000 if I tried to build my own 80 amp bi-directional system. When I start looking at all these advantages the questions changes from is the Sunrun system worth it to can I afford the Sunrun system? If I was looking at getting the least expensive F150L I could, then I would probably say that the Sunrun system cost too much but, since I’m willing to justify buying the much more expensive Lariat trim, I will be looking for a way to pay for the Sunrun system.

The 240V bed outlet only supplies up to 7.2kW, 3.6kW per leg. Home Integration System should allow up to 9.6kW total and 7.2kW per leg.

Also, will probably be able to charge the truck at 9.6kW from the HIS, saving cost of seperate circuits for HIS and charging. That's not official but HIS looks capable of DC charging to 9.6kW.

 

[Texas Dan]

The 240V bed outlet only supplies up to 7.2kW, 3.6kW per leg. Home Integration System should allow up to 9.6kW total and 7.2kW per leg.

Also, will probably be able to charge the truck at 9.6kW from the HIS, saving cost of seperate circuits for HIS and charging. That's not official but HIS looks capable of DC charging to 9.6kW.

The Ford Lightning website ( 2022 Ford F-150® Lightning™ Electric Truck |All Electric and All F-150) says that the Enhanced Pro Power Onboard system offers 9.6 kW, not 7.2 kW. The website says that power is provided to 11 outlets including a single 240v outlet and a Ford informational video () states that all of the on board power, 4.8 kW per leg in the case of the F150L, is available at the 240v outlet. I did see on the website that power back to the house is just 9.6 kW but it doesn't make any sense that Sunrun would charge $9,000 for the installation of a 9.6 kW inverter and a transfer switch when the truck already has an 9.6 kW inverter and the installation of a 240v 50 amp transfer switch is less than $1,000.

Information on what the HIS is capable of doing is extremely limited. I'm not saying your wrong but I can't find any information that backs up your claims. Please provide a link to where to find the information included in your post.

 

[Regular150]

We have solar, a MachE and a Lightning on order, but I'm thinking hard at getting a Natural gas While house Generator. General 22,k is about $5'200 and comes with 200Amp panel. All the Banks, Hospitals and the key buildings on our Air Force Base have a generator so with the price of the SunRun, I'm better off with something that can lower the house and my electric vehicles. I was really hoping the Lightning could do this Economically. Hmmm.

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