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BzzzzztZapPow

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Well, now I know. Visited the Sun Run order site and the cost for installation of the charger is $1500 ($150 design fee); $7700 for the HIS....$9200 total, with the asterisk for potential extra costs. shop.sunrun.com/ford/order/

We just don't lose power enough to justify the cost for our home. Bummer.

Ford F-150 Lightning SunRun Price for Charger and Home Integration System Installation Sun Run Order
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adoublee

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Did they mention a tax credit if you connect solar into the inverter?

Are you not installing the charger provided with the ER?
 
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BzzzzztZapPow

BzzzzztZapPow

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Did they mention a tax credit if you connect solar into the inverter?

Are you not installing the charger provided with the ER?
I did not look into solar....future project.

Yes, I plan to use the Ford charger with the ER....$1500 is for its installation.

It would probably be more cost effective for a storage battery. Maryland offers tax credits for energy storage systems. They exclude electric vehicles as storage systems.
 

Vorador

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$1500 to install the charger? Lol, I can probably have an electrician do it for 500.

Edit: I take that back. Forgot the 100 amp breaker will cost $500 to $600
 
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sotek2345

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$1500 to install the charger? Lol, I can probably have an electrician do it for 500.
That really depends on how far it is located from the panel. 100A circuits aren't cheap.
 

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Amps

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That really depends on how far it is located from the panel. 100A circuits aren't cheap.
Really! I'd be thankful and happily pay $1500, if it's a flat-rate deal for runs under 150 feet. (Hey, a guy can dream.) My material costs alone would be close to half of that, minimum.
 

Vorador

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That really depends on how far it is located from the panel. 100A circuits aren't cheap.
Yeah, my panel is pretty much on the opposite side of the wall. They'll need to run 5 feet of wiring.
 

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We are having solar installed this be summer. At the same time we will have our electric service upgraded to 200 amp from 100 amp. Ideally, they keep the 100 amp panel in the basement and put the 200amp panel in the garage where the service enters the house. The current wiring from service entrance to main panel could go from 200amp panel to old main panel. The 200 amp panel could then contain all of the evse circuits (freeing spaces in an otherwise full panel). We would also have the capacity to add a heat pump in the future. It will also free up capacity for a battery backup system in the basement if we choose to go that way.
 

rdr854

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I did not look into solar....future project.

Yes, I plan to use the Ford charger with the ER....$1500 is for its installation.

It would probably be more cost effective for a storage battery. Maryland offers tax credits for energy storage systems. They exclude electric vehicles as storage systems.
My electrician is quoting $3K because of the length of the run, the 100 amp wiring required and the fact that the house is fully finished. This also includes all of the County permitting requirements and fees.
 

White Lightning

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Well, now I know. Visited the Sun Run order site and the cost for installation of the charger is $1500 ($150 design fee); $7700 for the HIS....$9200 total, with the asterisk for potential extra costs. shop.sunrun.com/ford/order/

We just don't lose power enough to justify the cost for our home. Bummer.

Sun Run Order.png
My brother is an electrician. He's going to install a manual interlock and power inlet at my house. For the 1-2 times/year I need it, I'll connect a 30A RV extension cord from the house's inlet to the 240v outlet in the truck bed then flip the interlock. For most homes, the equipment and install should cost less than $1,000.
 

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Vorador

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Think my plan now is to just buy a Chargepoint Flex. Probably cost $400 - $500 to install that with a 60 amp breaker. 48 amps should be enough charging for me. I'll probably just sell the Ford Pro Station on ebay for hopefully $1k and come close to breaking even.
 

GoodSam

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If the equipment and installation price is right, having the house power fed from the EV during peak charge times (4-9p) would be sweet beyond emergency backup. However, beyond costs, one needs to maintain that automatic transfer switch for reliably working everyday. Payback seems long. And all that wall space for equipment is tough to find. Does that include any solar connection equipment?
 

xtraman122

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My brother is an electrician. He's going to install a manual interlock and power inlet at my house. For the 1-2 times/year I need it, I'll connect a 30A RV extension cord from the house's inlet to the 240v outlet in the truck bed then flip the interlock. For most homes, the equipment and install should cost less than $1,000.
Will need to see if the 9.6kw ProPower on the Lightning will be neutral bonded like the 7.2kw on the PB. If so that’ll kill that plan unless you want to skip the ground and have it wired in a somewhat questionable manner.
 

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We are having solar installed this be summer. At the same time we will have our electric service upgraded to 200 amp from 100 amp. Ideally, they keep the 100 amp panel in the basement and put the 200amp panel in the garage where the service enters the house. The current wiring from service entrance to main panel could go from 200amp panel to old main panel. The 200 amp panel could then contain all of the evse circuits (freeing spaces in an otherwise full panel). We would also have the capacity to add a heat pump in the future. It will also free up capacity for a battery backup system in the basement if we choose to go that way.
The present service wiring from your garage to the 100A panel will need to be upgraded from 3 wire to 4 wire. If it’s cable, that means it must be replaced, if conduit, the existing wiring may be able to be used.
Since the existing 100A panel becomes a sub panel, grounds and neutrals must be separated there.
 

VTbuckeye

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The present service wiring from your garage to the 100A panel will need to be upgraded from 3 wire to 4 wire. If it’s cable, that means it must be replaced, if conduit, the existing wiring may be able to be used.
Since the existing 100A panel becomes a sub panel, grounds and neutrals must be separated there.
Thanks. I will have to talk with the electrician when the time comes for the installation.
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