SunRun Price for Charger and Home Integration System Installation

[sotek2345]

The Ford Lightning website ( 2022 Ford F-150® Lightning™ Electric Truck |All Electric and All F-150) says that the Enhanced Pro Power Onboard system offers 9.6 kW, not 7.2 kW. The website says that power is provided to 11 outlets including a single 240v outlet and a Ford informational video () states that all of the on board power, 4.8 kW per leg in the case of the F150L, is available at the 240v outlet. I did see on the website that power back to the house is just 9.6 kW but it doesn't make any sense that Sunrun would charge $9,000 for the installation of a 9.6 kW inverter and a transfer switch when the truck already has an 9.6 kW inverter and the installation of a 240v 50 amp transfer switch is less than $1,000.

Information on what the HIS is capable of doing is extremely limited. I'm not saying your wrong but I can't find any information that backs up your claims. Please provide a link to where to find the information included in your post.

Pro power is 9.6kW total on the lightning, but that is split 2.4kW to the "Mega Power Frunk" and 7.2kW total shared between the cab and bed outlets. So the max you can get from the bed is 7.2kW.

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[adoublee]

The Ford Lightning website ( 2022 Ford F-150® Lightning™ Electric Truck |All Electric and All F-150) says that the Enhanced Pro Power Onboard system offers 9.6 kW, not 7.2 kW. The website says that power is provided to 11 outlets including a single 240v outlet and a Ford informational video () states that all of the on board power, 4.8 kW per leg in the case of the F150L, is available at the 240v outlet. I did see on the website that power back to the house is just 9.6 kW but it doesn't make any sense that Sunrun would charge $9,000 for the installation of a 9.6 kW inverter and a transfer switch when the truck already has an 9.6 kW inverter and the installation of a 240v 50 amp transfer switch is less than $1,000.

Information on what the HIS is capable of doing is extremely limited. I'm not saying your wrong but I can't find any information that backs up your claims. Please provide a link to where to find the information included in your post.

Search my history on this site for links and references.

The larger option of Pro Power Onboard is 9.6kW but the 240V plug itself is only 30A which is 7.2kW or 3.6kW per leg. The video you linked says full 7.2kW of hybrid is available at the 240V, it doesnt reference the 9.6kW system. It is not well documented by Ford but pictures of the 30A outlet in the Lightning with 9.6kW total power have been provided. It is true you could get more juice from one of the 120V outlets with a seperate extension cord while the 240V is connected to the home wiring, but the Pro Power Onboard route will have more limitations than the home integration system.

 

[Maquis]

I have a 32 amp Siemens EV charger in my garage that I bought from Home Depot and installed myself. I simply pulled out the breaker for the clothes dryer circuit and install a bigger 40 amp breaker for the EV charger and ran the correctly sized wires to the EV charger. I’m a licensed engineer, so installing an EV charger is something I felt comfortable with.

I have a 150 amp panel and I have been investigating if I could put the Ford Pro charger on it. The Ford Pro charger requires a 100 amp breaker but it only draws 80 amps of power. The only real loads I have on my panel right now besides the 32 amp EV charger are two air-conditioning condenser units and an electric range/oven.

The two air-conditioning condenser units only draw a maximum of 20 and 22 amps respectively. The range/oven is rated at 14 kW or 58 amps but it’s on a 40 amp breaker and it has never popped its’ breaker. The range/oven has nine heating elements and every one of them would have to be turned on at exactly the same to get anywhere near the peak power rating.

I feel comfortable that I could install a 100 amp breaker in my existing panel to run the Ford Pro charger and hardly, if ever, have any issues with overloading circuits. Running the two condensers full out (42 amps) while charging the Ford Pro charger (80 amps) would still leave 28 amps for lights and electronics plus a few heating elements of the range/oven. The worst that would happen if I did overload the main panel is that the main panel circuit breaker would pop requiring me to turn off a few circuits and restart the breaker.

The issue gets a little more complicated when I start thinking about backup power. If I forgo the Sunrun Home Integration System, I can still use the F150L’s 9.6 kW power supply (about 40 amps) to power most of the house.

With 40 amps I could run at least one of the AC compressors and pretty much everything else as long as I didn’t load up the range/oven too much. I have a gas B-B-Q grille that would allow me to completely avoid using the range/oven but only using one AC compressor really wouldn’t work during the hottest days of the year. Since I have gas furnaces, 9.6 kW would be plenty of backup power for most of the year including during extreme cold conditions when we get most of our power outages.

I can get a 50 amp transfer switch with 10 sub-circuits on Amazon for around $500. It would be a considerable amount of work moving all the critical loads from the main panel to the sub panel/transfer switch. I can also get a 40 amp transfer switch for about $800 from Home Depot that installs directly in the meter box, which would save a lot of work but would require me to coordinate with my utility company to put a transfer switch in their box.

So is it worth $9,000 to have Sunrun install the Ford Pro charger with Sunrun’s Home Integration System. There are definitely a lot less expensive alternatives but there are advantages that would be hard to get without Sunrun. The five biggest advantages I see are not having to figure out the Ford Pro charger and backup power installation for myself, the ability to have almost the full 80 amps of backup power, the ability to remotely turn the transfer switch on and off, the ability to remotely monitor charging and backup power and ability to integrate a solar power system.

One thing I should mention is that the 80 amp inverter that comes in the Sunrun Home Integration System could easily cost me $4,000 if I tried to build my own 80 amp bi-directional system. When I start looking at all these advantages the questions changes from is the Sunrun system worth it to can I afford the Sunrun system? If I was looking at getting the least expensive F150L I could, then I would probably say that the Sunrun system cost too much but, since I’m willing to justify buying the much more expensive Lariat trim, I will be looking for a way to pay for the Sunrun system.

Have you checked to see if the manufacturer makes a 100A breaker to fit your panel? Some 150s do not accept 100A beakers.

 

[GDN]

Yep...and you could still connect your Lightning to it if you needed as well...

I installed this a week or so ago: http://www.generlink.com super clean set up and it looks great.

I am not an electrician and many things I don't understand about it, but I can wire a plug or two. Having said that, I'm skeptical when I find one off products like these, I don't have the knowledge to know if it is a solid product or a gimmick or if it will work with our truck. Having said that I am very hopeful with the On Board Power, there will be products like this that work with the truck out of the box for a reasonable cost of $1K or so.

In a heart beat I'd drop $1K and map out my breakers to be able to run the freezer, fridge, HVAC, etc. Even if I have to alter between them over a 24 to 48 hour outage.

 

[Texas Dan]

Search my history on this site for links and references.

The larger option of Pro Power Onboard is 9.6kW but the 240V plug itself is only 30A which is 7.2kW or 3.6kW per leg. The video you linked says full 7.2kW of hybrid is available at the 240V, it doesnt reference the 9.6kW system. It is not well documented by Ford but pictures of the 30A outlet in the Lightning with 9.6kW total power have been provided. It is true you could get more juice from one of the 120V outlets with a seperate extension cord while the 240V is connected to the home wiring, but the Pro Power Onboard route will have more limitations than the home integration system.

The Parkwood 691944Y adapter, https://www.parkworld.us/691944y-p738.html, that the Ford website says is required for 240v power from both the hybrid F150 and the F150L, https://www.ford.com/support/how-to...ightning-charging-frequently-asked-questions/, adapts a 30A Locking L14-30P plug to RV/EV 50 AMP 14-50R plug. Also this website, https://www.ford.com/support/how-to...eries-features/what-is-the-pro-power-onboard/, on the Ford Pro Power Onboard does not mention 9.6 kW output power. So, unless some additional information becomes available, it looks like I will have to concede that the maximum output power is 7.2 kW.

 

[Texas Dan]

Have you checked to see if the manufacturer makes a 100A breaker to fit your panel? Some 150s do not accept 100A beakers.

This one is suppose to fit in my panel, Challenger C2100 Circuit Breaker (circuitbreakerwarehouse.com).

 

[GDN]

This one is suppose to fit in my panel, Challenger C2100 Circuit Breaker (circuitbreakerwarehouse.com).

That is refurbished. It may be perfectly good as new, but not where I'd want to cut $40.

 

[Maquis]

This one is suppose to fit in my panel, Challenger C2100 Circuit Breaker (circuitbreakerwarehouse.com).

If you have a Challenger panel, it’s probably a good time to upgrade anyway.

 

[beatle]

I am not an electrician and many things I don't understand about it, but I can wire a plug or two. Having said that, I'm skeptical when I find one off products like these, I don't have the knowledge to know if it is a solid product or a gimmick or if it will work with our truck. Having said that I am very hopeful with the On Board Power, there will be products like this that work with the truck out of the box for a reasonable cost of $1K or so.

In a heart beat I'd drop $1K and map out my breakers to be able to run the freezer, fridge, HVAC, etc. Even if I have to alter between them over a 24 to 48 hour outage.

The generator interlock is basically a way of running a "suicide cord" safely. Good ones are UL listed. You backfeed the generator into the main panel by way of a dedicated branch circuit breaker to the generator (or truck, if it would work). The interlock switch ensures you must disconnect the main breaker from the utility in order to close the breaker from the generator so you don't backfeed into the grid and roast some nice electrician who is working to fix your power outage. They won't be expecting voltage to come from the home.

Installing and operating an interlock is much simpler and less expensive than a transfer switch, and it electrifies the entire main panel, not just circuits that you incorporate into the transfer switch's panel. But as others have said, it doesn't sound like the bonded neutral from the truck will let this work properly. Bummer!

I am leaning towards a transfer switch setup now. The HIS is just too expensive for something that I'll only use a few hours a year, or maybe a day or two every 5 years.

 

[JgRva]

The cost to buy the home integration on your own is $3,700 so Sunrun is charging $5,700 for the install.

I had a sunrun rep refuse to tell me how much the home integration system costs, and told me you weren't allowed to by it, and you had to go through sunrun, then I sent her a screen shot from sunrun's own website and she sent me the link below.

But they are also kinda shady, I told them I already had solar, and she at first refused to send me pricing until I sent her a copy of my power bill.

Here is the link to purchase the system outside of sunrun.

https://aeeexpress.com/crs/storeus/browse/productDetailSingleSku.jsp?productId=0000000664

 

[Ken]

Good to know you can buy it separately I already own the panels on the house and was considering asking the local company that installed them to put a second set on the front of the house, and install this home integration kit and the 80 amp charger all in one group. The solar companies that do the leasing like sunrun and solar city aren't the best at dealing with existing solar customers that own their panels. I had a hard sell from solar city back when I was thinking about it 6 years ago, and I'm glad i bought. The panels have more than paid for themselves now so I get free electricity with a $10 monthly grid charge plus the extra I'm now using with three teenagers.

 

[Barrels]

My brother is an electrician. He's going to install a manual interlock and power inlet at my house. For the 1-2 times/year I need it, I'll connect a 30A RV extension cord from the house's inlet to the 240v outlet in the truck bed then flip the interlock. For most homes, the equipment and install should cost less than $1,000.

This is what I want to do. Because my house panel and garage panels are full, I got a ballpark quote for a second house panel and install of the Ford Charge Station Pro that is coming with my ER Lightning of, (gasp), $15-18K. Reason is they will need to install a second panel in the house and up the service to 320v. So................I want to just link the Lightning to my Emergency Generator plug but have read and seen the videos of it not working due to the two grounds - house and truck - not being common and the truck thinking there is a fault and shutting down. Not being an electrician, I have not made sense of the threads about this and what some have done to resolve it or what some others think about their work ("unsafe!"). I am searching for the layman's description of what is done to resolve that problem before committing.........................

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