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T-Boned Today. Is It Totaled?

MotoGary

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A lady in a Toyota RAV4 ran a red light and hit me broadside today. The impact pushed me into another car that slightly hit my front end. No airbags deployed. There was red fluid under my truck and an error message indicating that the front motor was not functioning. The front right wheel seemed to have moved inward slightly.

I know that’s not a lot to go on, but right now it’s all I’ve got. What say ye? Totaled or no?

Advice from anyone who has dealt with Lightnings and insurance companies welcome.

Ford F-150 Lightning T-Boned Today. Is It Totaled? IMG_8521
Ford F-150 Lightning T-Boned Today. Is It Totaled? IMG_8531
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Ted23Lightning

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A lady in a Toyota RAV4 ran a red light and hit me broadside today. The impact pushed me into another car that slightly hit my front end. No airbags deployed. There was red fluid under my truck and an error message indicating that the front motor was not functioning. The front right wheel seemed to have moved inward slightly.

I know that’s not a lot to go on, but right now it’s all I’ve got. What say ye? Totaled or no?

Advice from anyone who has dealt with Lightnings and insurance companies welcome.

IMG_8521.jpeg
IMG_8531.jpeg
So sorry to see :( hope everyone is okay. What insurance did they have?
 

The Weatherman

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Based on what I have seen here on the forum over the past two and half years, I’m sorry to say, yes it is likely totaled.

It’s not as much about the damage, it’s about the depreciation of its value.
 
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RickLightning

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Contact your insurance company and let them deal with the other insurance company. If the battery isn't damaged, it likely isn't totaled.
 

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chl

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Sorry to hear of your accident.

Alas, the insurance company will probably look at the cost to repair it and compare that to the market value it has with depreciation, and then choose the lower number essentially. They might also consider the revenue they will make if they repair it and you continue paying for insurance.

They will look for comparable used Lightnings and give you that amount if they total it.

You can do your own looking now at the price of used comparables to be prepared to negotiate with the insurance adjuster.

When ever I finance a vehicle I always get gap insurance, just in case it gets totaled for less than I owe on the loan, which is likely early in the loan.

Even though/if the truck could be repaired, they are a business and will pick the lower number.

Sometimes they will let you buy it from them once they have "totaled" it and you could pay for the repair yourself, I have heard of people doing that sometimes.

I have come close to being t-boned by red-light runners myself a couple times, so now I wait at every green light a second or two to be sure the distracted person headed my way is going to stop, too often they don't.
 

hturnerfamily

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totaled? yes.

My reasons, as an insurance agent, are these:

A) Body Shop damage repair today is out of control, and, likely to be in the $10,000 plus area, just by itself - not to mention any lack of replacement panels or parts, etc...
B) ELECTRICAL systems and powertrain 'repairs' are highly likely to be for a very SPECIALIZED shop to tackle, and they are at a premium, as well, even if you can find one... a MOTOR is not an engine, and likely to scare many away. A Ford dealer 'might' tackle it, but many of those are not certified as EV dealers, or even ones with those Certified TECHS. It's not just the parts, it's the Electrical components and also their connection to the HV portion of the battery.
C) 'fluid' on the ground is not a good sign.
D) Side impacts tend to be problematic for frames. If the frame is an problem, then, well, that huge battery pack within it might just very well be, too...

The 'Actual Cash Value'(street value/person-to-person sale value) is also in play. No insurer will pay you to REPAIR your vehicle if that cost is HIGHER, or even CLOSE TO, the simpler cost to pay out the ACV value.

Sure, you can also choose, after a total loss, to 'buy back' your SALVAGED vehicle, but you'll then have to also not only have it repaired, but CERTIFIED by your state as a REBUILT vehicle, meeting all the SAFETY and other requirements they demand. That is NOT always an easy proposition, especially for EVs, with their HV batteries.
 

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21st Century Truck

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Based on my past adventures with the Mach E, the red fluid on the ground is likely Ford Motorcraft Mercon transmission fluid, also used in Ford EVs to cool the guts of the electric motor(s).

If Mercon leaked out, the integrity of the front motor's inner seals is broken... i.e. "new motor".
 

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21st Century Truck

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Based on my past adventures with the Mach E, the red fluid on the ground is likely Ford Motorcraft Mercon transmission fluid, also used in Ford EVs to cool the guts of the electric motor(s).

If Mercon leaked out, the integrity of the front motor's inner seals is broken... i.e. "new motor".
FYI my old Mach E's blown front motor (warranty fix) cost about $5,800+ or so for parts and labor. I happened to see the dealer-to-Ford warranty invoice.
 

RocketGhost

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Contact your insurance company and let them deal with the other insurance company.
At least in some states doing this may raise your rates. It's a claim on your policy. Sure, your insurance company will likely subrogate and get their money back. But you still have a claim on your record.
 

Heliian

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Nobody knows but your adjuster, the shop that is going to quote it and the lord herself.

If the cab is smushed then it'll be written off most likely.

If they do write if off then make sure someone gets that battery asap.
 

Ted23Lightning

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At least in some states doing this may raise your rates. It's a claim on your policy. Sure, your insurance company will likely subrogate and get their money back. But you still have a claim on your record.
Agreed. U are the claimant. Let the insured’s insurance company take care of it. If it’s repairable, after the repairs, make sure you get diminished value compensation. And if they do decide to code-15 it, total loss, make sure you’re getting paid out what you are owed.
Me personally, if you take it to an MSO, I would also get a post repair inspection as well. You’ll probably end up paying out-of-pocket for that though.
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