Unsolicited advice on duplicate key fobs (2023 F150 Lightning Lariat)

[markps]

I like PAAK but it's not quite as reliable as I'd like, but I also hate how large the stock key fob feels in my pocket. I wanted to 3D print a case for my F150 fob but didn't want to accidentally break one of my two factory keys, so I ended up buying a fob (part number FRD-164-R8304) from carandtruckremotes.com which had a fair price ($120 with tax and shipping). The fob arrive within a few days.

With two functional keys (i.e. before you lose one!), you can program a 3rd key. Easy enough, right?

I then followed advice on other threads (here) and a YouTube video (here) but the new key would not program. I contacted the website where I purchased it for advice and they said to contact a locksmith. Prices for programming and cutting the backup key ranged up to $280. No thanks.

After many attempts, I ended up programming the key with the following steps. These mirror the instructions in the user manual, with a few small differences:

1) Start with truck off, and all doors closed
2) Remove cup holder cover to expose backup key location
3) Place working key #1 in the backup key location with the battery cover removed, backup 'hard key' removed, and the buttons facing the frunk
4) Without pressing the brake pedal, press and release the ignition button (turn on accessory mode)
5) After 'dinging' stops, press and release ignition button (~5 seconds)
6) Remove key #1
7) Place working key #2 (without battery cover or hard key) in the same area within 5 seconds
8) Without pressing the brake pedal, press and release the ignition button (turn on accessory mode a second time)
9) After 'dinging' stops, press and release ignition button
10) Remove working key #2
11) Immediately place new/unprogrammed key (wit battery cover and hard key removed) into backup key location (<10 seconds)
12) Without pressing the brake pedal, press and release the ignition button (tun on accessory mode a third time)
13) You should notice the hazards flash and a note on the driver-oriented display confirming the key has been programmed
14) After 'dinging' stops, press and release ignition button, turning the truck off

Now you should have a working key.

If these steps don't work, make sure your fobs all have new batteries.

I probably tried this 8 times without success, so some combination of fob orientation, battery cover removal, and removing the backup 'hard key' was the voodoo I needed for success.

Hope this helps someone else.

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[potato]

I bought a cheap key fob off Aliexpress for my 3rd one for backup, so I can reprogram a proper one myself if I lose one. For the princely sum of $36 CAD it programmed first try using the procedure in the owner's manual (only one press of the start button instead of the two in your procedure.) It has a remote start button instead of the frunk, so I wouldn't use it for my daily, but otherwise seems identical to the factory ones.

 

[RickLightning]

Manual worked fine for me.

 

[FLSpartan04]

I like PAAK but it's not quite as reliable as I'd like, but I also hate how large the stock key fob feels in my pocket. I wanted to 3D print a case for my F150 fob but didn't want to accidentally break one of my two factory keys, so I ended up buying a fob (part number FRD-164-R8304) from carandtruckremotes.com which had a fair price ($120 with tax and shipping). The fob arrive within a few days.

With two functional keys (i.e. before you lose one!), you can program a 3rd key. Easy enough, right?

I then followed advice on other threads (here) and a YouTube video (here) but the new key would not program. I contacted the website where I purchased it for advice and they said to contact a locksmith. Prices for programming and cutting the backup key ranged up to $280. No thanks.

After many attempts, I ended up programming the key with the following steps. These mirror the instructions in the user manual, with a few small differences:

1) Start with truck off, and all doors closed
2) Remove cup holder cover to expose backup key location
3) Place working key #1 in the backup key location with the battery cover removed, backup 'hard key' removed, and the buttons facing the frunk
4) Without pressing the brake pedal, press and release the ignition button (turn on accessory mode)
5) After 'dinging' stops, press and release ignition button (~5 seconds)
6) Remove key #1
7) Place working key #2 (without battery cover or hard key) in the same area within 5 seconds
8) Without pressing the brake pedal, press and release the ignition button (turn on accessory mode a second time)
9) After 'dinging' stops, press and release ignition button
10) Remove working key #2
11) Immediately place new/unprogrammed key (wit battery cover and hard key removed) into backup key location (<10 seconds)
12) Without pressing the brake pedal, press and release the ignition button (tun on accessory mode a third time)
13) You should notice the hazards flash and a note on the driver-oriented display confirming the key has been programmed
14) After 'dinging' stops, press and release ignition button, turning the truck off

Now you should have a working key.

If these steps don't work, make sure your fobs all have new batteries.

I probably tried this 8 times without success, so some combination of fob orientation, battery cover removal, and removing the backup 'hard key' was the voodoo I needed for success.

Hope this helps someone else.

I love the idea of printing a slim fob case. I ordered a fob from Ali express and will pull out the board to put it in the slimmest case possible. Would you mind sharing your file? STL is great, but even better if you have the design file. Thanks!

 

[markps]

Manual worked fine for me.

Honestly, I'm not sure why it didn't work for me.... wish it had, would have saved me a lot of time.

I love the idea of printing a slim fob case. I ordered a fob from Ali express and will pull out the board to put it in the slimmest case possible. Would you mind sharing your file? STL is great, but even better if you have the design file. Thanks!

I'm just getting started.. if I make something that works, I'll be sure to come post links to it on this post.

 

[LazyLightningATX]

I had to do it a few times...once I realized there was a timing component that had to be adhered to, I got it right away. Hid that spare in the truck inside a RFID blocker so now I always have a key if I need it.

I also like the idea of a 'lite FOB'

 

[Adventureboy]

I bought a cheap key fob off Aliexpress

Which one did you order? I want to get one for myself but not sure which one will work.

 

[bmwhitetx]

it programmed first try using the procedure in the owner's manual (only one press of the start button instead of the two in your procedure.)

I think his "second" press is to turn vehicle off. You would have had to do that too. Here's the manual instructions (with my notes added):

1. Access the backup slot.
2. Place the first programmed remote in the backup slot with your foot off the brake pedal, press and release the push button ignition switch (turns truck on in Accessory mode).
3. Wait five seconds and then press and release the push button ignition switch again (turns truck off).
4. Remove the first remote control.
5. Within 10 seconds, place a second programmed remote control in the backup slot. With your foot off the brake pedal, Press and release the push button ignition switch (turns truck on in Accessory mode).
6. Wait five seconds and then press and release the push button ignition switch again (turns truck off). Keep the ignition on for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds.
7. Remove the second remote control.
8. Within 10 seconds, Place the unprogrammed remote control in the backup slot and press and release the push button ignition switch (turns truck on in Accessory mode).

Programming is now complete.With your foot on the brake pedal, press the push button ignition switch (truck was in Accessory mode, now should be ON and Ready showing in instrument cluster) to verify the remote control functions operate and your vehicle starts with the new remote control.

I'm not sure about the last paragraph. The two original keyfobs are still in the vehicle so of course it's going to turn on. A proper test is to remove the two original fobs and then test the new one.

 

[potato]

@bmwhitetx you're probably right. My memory sucks. Anyway I did use the procedure in the manual, paying attention to the timing.

Which one did you order? I want to get one for myself but not sure which one will work.

I got this one. 315 MHz, "color" #4 I think. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOyafPo

No guarantees of anything with Aliexpress though lol. For me it was cheap enough I thought I'd give it a shot.

 

[Adventureboy]

@bmwhitetx you're probably right. My memory sucks. Anyway I did use the procedure in the manual, paying attention to the timing.


I got this one. 315 MHz, "color" #4 I think. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOyafPo

No guarantees of anything with Aliexpress though lol. For me it was cheap enough I thought I'd give it a shot.

Awesome, thx. I know there is a bit of risk with Aliexpress and appreciate the link.

 

[FLSpartan04]

Here’s my prototype slim fob. Still need to design some button heads, and ordering some blue material. Think I may do blue on housing, black in front, and blue buttons. I purposely left the panic button covered to prevent accidental trigger. Harvested a PCB from an AliExpress knockoff. I’ll share models once perfected.

 

[FLSpartan04]

Finished my slim Fob (don’t know if these things ever finish, as I’m sure I’ll keep tweaking my design). I ended up covering the panic button to prevent accidental presses and integrating an air tag. I also had a leftover fob I bought off AliExpress that was the wrong frequency, so I printed a 2nd one with no buttons to hide in the vehicle. It also has an AirTag so that I can track the vehicle. It works just fine to start the vehicle in the dead fob slot (doesn’t even require a battery), it just doesn’t do any of the lock/unlock, passive entry etc due to the wrong frequency. I like having this as a backup in case I lose my keys (or drop them down a sewer) and need an emergency backup to drive the vehicle. Anyway, if anyone is interested, I would be happy to share the design and solid files.

 

[FLSpartan04]

Also tinkered with another design to use the key holder as an AirTag/mail key holder.

 

[Joe.....Montana]

I think his "second" press is to turn vehicle off. You would have had to do that too. Here's the manual instructions (with my notes added):

1. Access the backup slot.
2. Place the first programmed remote in the backup slot with your foot off the brake pedal, press and release the push button ignition switch (turns truck on in Accessory mode).
3. Wait five seconds and then press and release the push button ignition switch again (turns truck off).
4. Remove the first remote control.
5. Within 10 seconds, place a second programmed remote control in the backup slot. With your foot off the brake pedal, Press and release the push button ignition switch (turns truck on in Accessory mode).
6. Wait five seconds and then press and release the push button ignition switch again (turns truck off). Keep the ignition on for at least three seconds, but no more than 10 seconds.
7. Remove the second remote control.
8. Within 10 seconds, Place the unprogrammed remote control in the backup slot and press and release the push button ignition switch (turns truck on in Accessory mode).

Programming is now complete.With your foot on the brake pedal, press the push button ignition switch (truck was in Accessory mode, now should be ON and Ready showing in instrument cluster) to verify the remote control functions operate and your vehicle starts with the new remote control.

I'm not sure about the last paragraph. The two original keyfobs are still in the vehicle so of course it's going to turn on. A proper test is to remove the two original fobs and then test the new one.

Just programmed another key fob following these directions and it worked perfectly. Buying and programming another key was cheaper than adding the "key coverage" on ESP.

Purchased key here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTMX19XN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[CptnWookenstein]

I like PAAK but it's not quite as reliable as I'd like, but I also hate how large the stock key fob feels in my pocket. I wanted to 3D print a case for my F150 fob but didn't want to accidentally break one of my two factory keys, so I ended up buying a fob (part number FRD-164-R8304) from carandtruckremotes.com which had a fair price ($120 with tax and shipping). The fob arrive within a few days.

With two functional keys (i.e. before you lose one!), you can program a 3rd key. Easy enough, right?

I then followed advice on other threads (here) and a YouTube video (here) but the new key would not program. I contacted the website where I purchased it for advice and they said to contact a locksmith. Prices for programming and cutting the backup key ranged up to $280. No thanks.

After many attempts, I ended up programming the key with the following steps. These mirror the instructions in the user manual, with a few small differences:

1) Start with truck off, and all doors closed
2) Remove cup holder cover to expose backup key location
3) Place working key #1 in the backup key location with the battery cover removed, backup 'hard key' removed, and the buttons facing the frunk
4) Without pressing the brake pedal, press and release the ignition button (turn on accessory mode)
5) After 'dinging' stops, press and release ignition button (~5 seconds)
6) Remove key #1
7) Place working key #2 (without battery cover or hard key) in the same area within 5 seconds
8) Without pressing the brake pedal, press and release the ignition button (turn on accessory mode a second time)
9) After 'dinging' stops, press and release ignition button
10) Remove working key #2
11) Immediately place new/unprogrammed key (wit battery cover and hard key removed) into backup key location (<10 seconds)
12) Without pressing the brake pedal, press and release the ignition button (tun on accessory mode a third time)
13) You should notice the hazards flash and a note on the driver-oriented display confirming the key has been programmed
14) After 'dinging' stops, press and release ignition button, turning the truck off

Now you should have a working key.

If these steps don't work, make sure your fobs all have new batteries.

I probably tried this 8 times without success, so some combination of fob orientation, battery cover removal, and removing the backup 'hard key' was the voodoo I needed for success.

Hope this helps someone else.

So I’ve done all of this with success! But as soon as I get to the point it says successful then it won’t work. Not sure what to do at that point really.

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