Waiting 5 months for module replacement / end with an update and less miles

[WeedmanU]

The Ford Pass App calculates all the values to try and give you ball park how much it charged. The most accurate is the energy added kwh charged. The rest is reference but not that accurate. Charging a battery is not like filling it up with a liquid.

Distance Added: The miles added are never accurate and no way they could be since your driving style dictates how many miles you will get.

Charge Rate: The rate of charge only shows a value while it is charging after it completes there is no more charging so you see --.

Energy Added: This the amount kwh it charge to reach your battery charge ceiling you have in your settings. It is the most accurate. As far as I am concerned it is the only useful thing on the list. But I found that if you are turning on your truck and playing with the settings or other things it will use more energy then what is actually charged. So I make point to leave the truck alone while charging.

Time on Charger: This is meaningless if you are on the Pro Charger because as long as it is plugged in even if charge complete it is still tracking how long it has been connected to the charger. I found the portable chargers are more accurate by actually stopping when charge is complete.

Charge Type: kind of worthless

I keep track of every charge at home so far. I found once you disconnect the charger you loose the Energy Added figure so unless I screw up and get in a hurry and unplug before documenting.

In my spreadsheet I take the (Energy Added X power company charge per kwh) to get how much I actually paid for charging my truck. I take the actual mileage I traveled to figure out the Distance actually added back based on my driving style and use the following formula to figure out what equivalent miles per gallon would be for comparison. (current odometer/last charge odometer)*MPGe. MPGe is: 33.7 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity = 1 gallon of gas. A car with a 100 MPGe rating can travel 100 miles using 33.7 kWh of electricity. I am averaging about the equivalent 70 mpg. I can take the kwh charged / actual miles traveled and get the average of how many miles per kwh I get.

I usually do this for every new vehicle I purchase for the first year to get an idea of how well it performs. I usually get tired of documenting after a year or two when I am pretty comfortable with what I am getting.

Yes but the problem... my FordPass did work to know the charge but ... since the dealer play whit it. i don't know why but now nothing work.

I already de-install and install it again but no charge info or pre-clim the truck

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[Zprime29]

I only got an update (probably to bypass the module), and the result is 20 mph less at 100% and a pickup that loses charge more rapidly.

You said you just had a module replaced, right? It takes a couple weeks for your battery to report correct values. The module voltages need some time to finish balancing. Give it a month and see what things look like.

And we tell this to everyone that complains about reported range on the dash. Even trucks that don't have any problems report range estimates that are not accurate. Known problem with the calculation for range. Let your battery balance itself, then look at your efficiency and state of charge.

 

[Jseis]

The Ford Pass App calculates all the values to try and give you ball park how much it charged. The most accurate is the energy added kwh charged. The rest is reference but not that accurate. Charging a battery is not like filling it up with a liquid.

Distance Added: The miles added are never accurate and no way they could be since your driving style dictates how many miles you will get.

Charge Rate: The rate of charge only shows a value while it is charging after it completes there is no more charging so you see --.

Energy Added: This the amount kwh it charge to reach your battery charge ceiling you have in your settings. It is the most accurate. As far as I am concerned it is the only useful thing on the list. But I found that if you are turning on your truck and playing with the settings or other things it will use more energy then what is actually charged. So I make point to leave the truck alone while charging.

Time on Charger: This is meaningless if you are on the Pro Charger because as long as it is plugged in even if charge complete it is still tracking how long it has been connected to the charger. I found the portable chargers are more accurate by actually stopping when charge is complete.

Charge Type: kind of worthless

I keep track of every charge at home so far. I found once you disconnect the charger you loose the Energy Added figure so unless I screw up and get in a hurry and unplug before documenting.

In my spreadsheet I take the (Energy Added X power company charge per kwh) to get how much I actually paid for charging my truck. I take the actual mileage I traveled to figure out the Distance actually added back based on my driving style and use the following formula to figure out what equivalent miles per gallon would be for comparison. (current odometer/last charge odometer)*MPGe. MPGe is: 33.7 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity = 1 gallon of gas. A car with a 100 MPGe rating can travel 100 miles using 33.7 kWh of electricity. I am averaging about the equivalent 70 mpg. I can take the kwh charged / actual miles traveled and get the average of how many miles per kwh I get.

I usually do this for every new vehicle I purchase for the first year to get an idea of how well it performs. I usually get tired of documenting after a year or two when I am pretty comfortable with what I am getting.

Pretty much what I do. My average is 70-80 MPGE. And I also track miles/% and if I’m rolling at anything over 3.1 Mi/% I’m pretty ok. Some times when rolling at 2.6 Mi/Kwh I’m at 3.42 Mi/%.

I track the Mi/% by observing 10% use of the HVB every morning and that’s commonly 2.8-3.2 miles.

 

[WeedmanU]

And if MIL it s ok its also normal that i M not be able to have an input over 70 kwh on different 100kwh fast charging stations?
Since the trip to the dealer.

You don't think that are to many bugs to consider all that as normals?

 

[TheWoo]

And if MIL it s ok its also normal that i M not be able to have an input over 70 kwh on different 100kwh fast charging stations?
Since the trip to the dealer.

You don't think that are to many bugs to consider all that as normals?

I just looked that location up and they are 100kW max chargers with 250 Amp max cables. Topping out in the 70s is what you should expect.

 

[WeedmanU]

You said you just had a module replaced, right? It takes a couple weeks for your battery to report correct values. The module voltages need some time to finish balancing. Give it a month and see what things look like.

And we tell this to everyone that complains about reported range on the dash. Even trucks that don't have any problems report range estimates that are not accurate. Known problem with the calculation for range. Let your battery balance itself, then look at your efficiency and state of charge.

No... the module was supposed to be replaced. That's why I had to wait 5 months. But when finally the dealer ask me to come for the repair ....


No more module to switch and they made only an Update and reduce my actual available range at 100% charge.

 

[Zprime29]

No more module to switch and they made only an Update and reduce my actual available range at 100% charge.

Just so you are clear, they did not reduce your range. The range shown on the dash is an estimate, one that is poorly calculated and a known issue from over a year ago. You cannot use it to determine your max range.

What made the dealer initially tell you that it needed a new module? Did you have the power train malfunction message 5 months ago? I'm wondering why they made you wait 5 months and then didn't swap out the module.

 

[Zprime29]

I just looked that location up and they are 100kW max chargers with 250 Amp max cables. Topping out in the 70s is what you should expect.

Nominal pack voltage is 370, right? At 250amps, I'd have expected closer to 90kW. When I used the 150kW EA stations (350 amps) on a road trip I average 132kW peak, which would be a battery pack voltage around 377 (this would be around 40% SoC). At 250amps, that should have given 90+kW. I know some units power share, so maybe that limited it? Or maybe a bad cable/sensor? (Common problems with EA, so in the realm of possibility hitting two different locations with poor equipment). I'm just thinking out loud for the sake of discussion. While don't think the OP has lost range, I do think it odd the dealer said the truck needed a module replaced and then didn't replace it.

 

[WeedmanU]

That's also the reason I ask if someone can answer me.

But you're probably right... they only virtually reduced the estimated mileage. Because I can see after a week that the total distance traveled is as bad as before. #MileageGate #FuelEconomyFail

 

[WeedmanU]

I just looked that location up and they are 100kW max chargers with 250 Amp max cables. Topping out in the 70s is what you should expect.

Before the dealer whit the same and other 100kwh charging station

 

[TheWoo]

Before the dealer whit the same and other 100kwh charging station

So... basically the same normal charge rate in the 70s. These have super-inconsistent peaks that would worry me, and maybe what was fixed with the update. The charge curve in your previous post looks much healthier.

 

[WeedmanU]

Maybe, but a bit less fast...

But anyway, with an EV... the time needed to charge is no longer something concrete, like the mileage or the quality and reliability of a car. #ElectricVehicle #ChargingTime. I m assuming

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