Waiting 5 months for module replacement / end with an update and less miles

[WeedmanU]

Hello, I received the recall 23b57 for a faulty module pack. My dealer said that I need to wait because I am in the 4% of customers for whom an update is not enough. They need to replace the module.

Last week, after only two days at the dealer, my pickup was supposedly repaired.

I only got an update (probably to bypass the module), and the result is 20 mph less at 100% and a pickup that loses charge more rapidly.

In fact, when I plug in a scanner reader code, the pickup says 100%, but my scanner tells me that I am at 91% only.

That's clearly a lie. What the f***?

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[TaxmanHog]

Keep in mind that available power does get reduced with colder outside temps, your dash said -2c, while the battery does appear to be warmed up at 44c, were you recently driving, charging or using departure timer to warm the battery?

The update was done to the software only so that the truck can safely disable should the battery condition worsen, while they let you continue driving it. I'm not sure that they intentionally reduced available power, what does your detailed trip screens show for motor power and battery level 100/100?

Do they plan to have you return for a module replacement?

 

[Henry Ford]

Assuming you have an ER, the net battery capacity is 131 kWh and the gross battery capacity is 143.3 kWh. 131÷143.3=91.4%. It seems whatever scanner you are using is telling you that you have a very healthy battery.

 

[WeedmanU]

Keep in mind that available power does get reduced with colder outside temps, your dash said -2c, while the battery does appear to be warmed up at 44c, were you recently driving, charging or using departure timer to warm the battery?

The update was done to the software only so that the truck can safely disable should the battery condition worsen, while they let you continue driving it. I'm not sure that they intentionally reduced available power, what does your detailed trip screens show for motor power and battery level 100/100?

Do they plan to have you return for a module replacement?

No. Nothing else to do but i already have 18 errors codes .... and an average 145 miles as autonomy...

Really low even if its cold

 

[WeedmanU]

No. Nothing else to do, but I already have 18 error codes and an average of 145 miles of autonomy.

Really low, even if it's cold.

 

[Henry Ford]

Care to expand on those "18 error codes"? Do you have a maintenance required icon on the instrument panel?

If you are looking for advice more information is better.

 

[ctuan13]

I can't speak to all the errors you say you're experiencing unless you share more info, but as for the 91% percent listed in CarScanner, you're looking at the actual SOC as opposed to "display SOC". They are not the same. There is a different curve between what is displayed and actual SOC. 91% actual SOC at 100" "displayed SOC" is 100% normal.

For example at 90% "displayed SOC" (what I see on the IP), the actual SOC is 85%

 

[Heliian]

Take pictures of your regular ic display. It'll show power and charge.

In any case, please stop relying on the displayed km's, use soc percent and your kwh/100km for more accurate calculations.

There is nothing wrong with your truck.

 

[WeedmanU]

So explain me that one 0.5kwh for 130km... if that logic ?

 

[WeedmanU]

Sry I M a french dude

 

[TaxmanHog]

So explain me that one 0.5kwh for 130km... if that logic ?

The values on this screen are certified SCREWED UP, I've got complaints registered about it!!
Don't expect any fixes until the next grand update of FordPass.

Also, you're snap shots demonstrate the deceiving increase when hitting the 80% value, again ignore all that, rely on true SOC, factor the KWH available then factor your driving rate MPK to project your DTE

 

[VTbuckeye]

I can't speak to all the errors you say you're experiencing unless you share more info, but as for the 91% percent listed in CarScanner, you're looking at the actual SOC as opposed to "display SOC". They are not the same. There is a different curve between what is displayed and actual SOC. 91% actual SOC at 100" "displayed SOC" is 100% normal.

For example at 90% "displayed SOC" (what I see on the IP), the actual SOC is 85%

Here are a couple screenshots from car scanner showing actual versus displayed SOC at very high battery charge levels from a week ago. The truck was charging at a Kia dealership while I took an EV9 for an overnight test drive. The EV9 12V failed or the car had an iccu failure and they had to tow it back (4 days later). At least it failed in my driveway, not while out with my wife. Even so, Kia is off the list (or on the shit list) of cars that she will ever purchase. It was really our roadside assistance experience with them that cemented our feelings.

 

[flux capacitor]

The Ford Pass App calculates all the values to try and give you ball park how much it charged. The most accurate is the energy added kwh charged. The rest is reference but not that accurate. Charging a battery is not like filling it up with a liquid.

Distance Added: The miles added are never accurate and no way they could be since your driving style dictates how many miles you will get.

Charge Rate: The rate of charge only shows a value while it is charging after it completes there is no more charging so you see --.

Energy Added: This the amount kwh it charge to reach your battery charge ceiling you have in your settings. It is the most accurate. As far as I am concerned it is the only useful thing on the list. But I found that if you are turning on your truck and playing with the settings or other things it will use more energy then what is actually charged. So I make point to leave the truck alone while charging.

Time on Charger: This is meaningless if you are on the Pro Charger because as long as it is plugged in even if charge complete it is still tracking how long it has been connected to the charger. I found the portable chargers are more accurate by actually stopping when charge is complete.

Charge Type: kind of worthless

I keep track of every charge at home so far. I found once you disconnect the charger you loose the Energy Added figure so unless I screw up and get in a hurry and unplug before documenting.

In my spreadsheet I take the (Energy Added X power company charge per kwh) to get how much I actually paid for charging my truck. I take the actual mileage I traveled to figure out the Distance actually added back based on my driving style and use the following formula to figure out what equivalent miles per gallon would be for comparison. (current odometer/last charge odometer)*MPGe. MPGe is: 33.7 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity = 1 gallon of gas. A car with a 100 MPGe rating can travel 100 miles using 33.7 kWh of electricity. I am averaging about the equivalent 70 mpg. I can take the kwh charged / actual miles traveled and get the average of how many miles per kwh I get.

I usually do this for every new vehicle I purchase for the first year to get an idea of how well it performs. I usually get tired of documenting after a year or two when I am pretty comfortable with what I am getting.

 

[Henry Ford]

The truck was charging at a Kia dealership while I took an EV9 for an overnight test drive. The EV9 12V failed or the car had an iccu failure and they had to tow it back (4 days later). At least it failed in my driveway, not while out with my wife. Even so, Kia is off the list (or on the shit list) of cars that she will ever purchase. It was really our roadside assistance experience with them that cemented our feelings.

I'm going off topic...

I guess it's your good fortune it failed before you owned it.

We test drove an EV9 and my wife absolutely loved it. She had been driving a Honda Odyssey which is a great vehicle but she didn't love it. Anyway, we decided to stick with the Honda because we didn't want two cars with huge depreciation hits.

Three weeks later someone ran a red light and totalled the Honda. We looked into the EV9 again but the discounts that were there when we first looked went away. We ended up with a 2022 Lincoln Navigator Black Label for less than the EV9. It certainly wasn't an apples to apples comparison but my wife has a car she loves again (the last car she loved was a Ford Edge).

 

[VTbuckeye]

I'm going off topic...

I guess it's your good fortune it failed before you owned it.

We test drove an EV9 and my wife absolutely loved it. She had been driving a Honda Odyssey which is a great vehicle but she didn't love it. Anyway, we decided to stick with the Honda because we didn't want two cars with huge depreciation hits.

Three weeks later someone ran a red light and totalled the Honda. We looked into the EV9 again but the discounts that were there when we first looked went away. We ended up with a 2022 Lincoln Navigator Black Label for less than the EV9. It certainly wasn't an apples to apples comparison but my wife has a car she loves again (the last car she loved was a Ford Edge).

Again off topic, she LOVES her Volvo XC40 EV. I drive the lightning most of the time. We also have a 2016 xc90phev. That car gets driven rarely now that we both have EVs. I liked the EV9, but after that experience put in a reservation for a Volvo EX90. I am also considering a R1S lease to get through until the EX90 is available, but thankfully don't need to do anything. The xc90 has been a pretty good car, though it should be driven more often by someone, but I hate burning gas needlessly and as long as it is below 50ish degrees the xc90 will burn some whether it has enough battery charge or not (though not enough gas to actually warm up the engine). The xc40 is small (the two kids in the back seat complain to me, but not mommy) and inefficient for long drives. The xc90 is a great size for family trips and sometimes grandparents want to ride with us. If only the lightning was a 6 passenger vehicle. The Volvo EX90 role out has been long, and many are getting tired of the wait and radio silence from corporate.

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