Leveled Avalanche Lightning (Eibach Stage 1 & 35" Wild Peaks)

[HI Zeus]

Thank you for the response and the link to the other thread. I concur the setup @HI Zeus went with is an appealing choice. I’d probably not keep the OEM wheels since while I like the look the wheel spacers and cutting make me nervous. I also see that, for instance, Rough Country has a full spacer kit which includes upper control arms for about half of the mode you went with. I don’t mind replacing the control arms on principle, it’s just a taller order if the new arms cost more than the entire lift kit

Just an FYI, I have determined that UCA are advisable, I will have this done before taking it to Hawaii (from NM), because once its there I need it DONE and ready to work, I can't be messing around with it and developing my property/home. I feel like it will be fine for a few more months of city driving, but honestly don't think its a good long term plan.

I'm not sure where the Tremor wheels sit as far as backspacing, but if I had gone with the same height tires but narrower ( 10.6 instead of 11.6) I don't think I would have needed spacers or trimming.

Good luck, and I look forward to seeing the completed project!

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[sunrise089]

Just an FYI, I have determined that UCA are advisable, I will have this done before taking it to Hawaii (from NM), because once its there I need it DONE and ready to work, I can't be messing around with it and developing my property/home. I feel like it will be fine for a few more months of city driving, but honestly don't think its a good long term plan.

I'm not sure where the Tremor wheels sit as far as backspacing, but if I had gone with the same height tires but narrower (essentially 11.5 instead of 12.5) I don't think I would have needed spacers or trimming.

Good luck, and I look forward to seeing the completed project!

Thank you for the reply. I especially appreciate your update that the replacement control arms are advisable. Do you have a specific brand in mind?

As for the Tremor wheels, I confess despite being fairly handy around cars wheel backspacing and offset has always confused the heck out of me. That said, here's what I think the comparison looks like between stock, your setup with a 1" spacer, and Tremor take-offs:

If I understand your thread correctly you still have some rubbing even with your spacer, but think you wouldn't with a narrower tire. Unfortunately according to this the Tremor takeoffs @mq019 installed are actually a little closer to the suspension. So either they may have just as much if not more rub or else the very slight height delta makes a difference in their favor.

I'm not sure about your use case but you mention property so perhaps we're somewhat alike. I face tension in that I both take my truck off pavement (gravel roads and fields, not rock crawling) almost every day but also drive 30k miles each year. I'm picking up the Lightning because it will save me $4,000+ in fuel annually, but I want to sacrifice as little offroad capability as I can versus my current Jeep Gladiator Mojave on 35s. Hence my current plan for the Eibach lift kit and 35s on Tremor takeoffs for the combo of increased ground clearance, better suspension for doing truck things, and increased sidewall. Though if the Toyo AT EV tire came in any workable sizes I'd certainly take a hard look at making that tire work.

 

[HI Zeus]

I have not decided on UCA brand yet.

+34 will push the inside plane of the tire out 0.393 inches (great for tire rub issues). To look at it another way, with the same size tires you will have 0.393 inches more "poke" giving it about 3/4 of an inch wider stance.

I've gone back and reviewed some of my notes regarding other folk's rigs: glendawg619, and Oafy44 both had 285/65/20s (34.6x11.2) on the OEM 20s. I believe glendawg619 reported no rubbing, and Oafy44 said, "No rubbing except for reverse lock because I had mudflaps." (I assume this means they rubbed at the rear of the tire.) The 285/75/18s would be about 1/4 inch taller (diameter) and same width. So you'd be 1/8 inch closer to fenders etc. (radius). Based on what I wrote above, and what I've seen with my setup, I think you will likely not have any rubbing on the inside anywhere, but likely rub the front dam (would need to cut 1/4" off the edges, and MAYBE have some rubbing on the crash bars (I doubt it). I'd go for it!!

I too was reluctant to cut anything, but if the dam is the only thing you have to cut (my best guess), I'll bet you can pick those up used CHEAP (lots of people pulling them off) should you ever want to go back.

I had minor crash bar rub and actually fixed it with a tiny piece of metal to change the angle a smidge (I'm going to make a quick post about this actually, I think it will help quite a few folks.)

Good luck!

 

[digitaldad]

Thank you for the reply. I especially appreciate your update that the replacement control arms are advisable. Do you have a specific brand in mind?

As for the Tremor wheels, I confess despite being fairly handy around cars wheel backspacing and offset has always confused the heck out of me. That said, here's what I think the comparison looks like between stock, your setup with a 1" spacer, and Tremor take-offs:

Setting aside the backspacing/offset topic for a bit, the first checkbox in wheel application (besides basic lug pattern and center bore) is its weight/load capacity.

I originally looked at the Tremor setup but never found the weight support of that wheel...but if it is not at least 2400 pounds, it's technically not safely supporting the weight of my lightning (at least under load and/or towing). Most aftermarket wheels I looked at were in the 2200-2500 range, and since my rear axle GAWR is 4800 (divided by 2 for 2400), the 2500 per wheel was the minimum I would apply. Of course we know the OEM wheels support that.

The puzzle of offset/rubbing on this truck increases (imho) when going with 35" diameter and 12.5" width tires. I think you can pretty much avoid both by going 34ish" and 11.5" tires (as you're looking at).

The stock wheel (and 35/12.5) as in @HI Zeus 's case, meant he needed to spacer it out to avoid rubbing inside the suspension area/bits & inner wheel wells (new tires were much wider than stock). The same application but going too far out (or with 0 offset wheels) means more rubbing at the lower bumper/lower valance. You have more play/flexibility going with 18 or 20 offset wheels but still not poking out as much for less drag/range.

Then, if still going 35" could be be rubbing the crash bar/tusks. As identified in other threads, some folks have all (tusks in front and behind front wheels), some either or (its kina nuts). Some folks remove them, some push/expand them.

After all this, it's about wheel/tire fitment after your exact suspension choices. The aftermarket or OEM springs/struts/UCA geometry then dictates the tire wheel/tire reality.

There is enough data posted from others on here to "match or copy" as much as possible to expect the same (or nearly similar) results.

 

[HI Zeus]

Setting aside the backspacing/offset topic for a bit, the first checkbox in wheel application (besides basic lug pattern and center bore) is its weight/load capacity.

I originally looked at the Tremor setup but never found the weight support of that wheel...but if it is not at least 2400 pounds, it's technically not safely supporting the weight of my lightning (at least under load and/or towing). Most aftermarket wheels I looked at were in the 2200-2500 range, and since my rear axle GAWR is 4800 (divided by 2 for 2400), the 2500 per wheel was the minimum I would apply. Of course we know the OEM wheels support that.

The puzzle of offset/rubbing on this truck increases (imho) when going with 35" diameter and 12.5" width tires. I think you can pretty much avoid both by going 34ish" and 11.5" tires (as you're looking at).

The stock wheel (and 35/12.5) as in @HI Zeus 's case, meant he needed to spacer it out to avoid rubbing inside the suspension area/bits & inner wheel wells (new tires were much wider than stock). The same application but going too far out (or with 0 offset wheels) means more rubbing at the lower bumper/lower valance. You have more play/flexibility going with 18 or 20 offset wheels but still not poking out as much for less drag/range.

Then, if still going 35" could be be rubbing the crash bar/tusks. As identified in other threads, some folks have all (tusks in front and behind front wheels), some either or (its kina nuts). Some folks remove them, some push/expand them.

After all this, it's about wheel/tire fitment after your exact suspension choices. The aftermarket or OEM springs/struts/UCA geometry then dictates the tire wheel/tire reality.

There is enough data posted from others on here to "match or copy" as much as possible to expect the same (or nearly similar) results.

Just an FYI, I have determined that UCA are advisable, I will have this done before taking it to Hawaii (from NM), because once its there I need it DONE and ready to work, I can't be messing around with it and developing my property/home. I feel like it will be fine for a few more months of city driving, but honestly don't think its a good long term plan.

I'm not sure where the Tremor wheels sit as far as backspacing, but if I had gone with the same height tires but narrower (essentially 11.5 instead of 12.5) I don't think I would have needed spacers or trimming.

Good luck, and I look forward to seeing the completed project!

Shoot, I made a mistake going by memory (it happens more and more these days), my LT295/65R20s are 35.1x11.6 (12.5 as I stated above).

I'll see if I can edit it now, but just wanted to make sure the incorrect information doesn't go to far.

 

[digitaldad]

I completed half of my first road trip since the lift & tires were installed. 1.7 kWh average on the way out to visit family: 570 miles @ 70 MPH (speed limit was mostly 75).

I would have rather driven faster and charged more but am limited by charger availability/distance on this route.

This same stretch (reverse path - back in January & during a cold snap) when I bought the truck, was about 1.6 kWh, going 65 MPH (stock).

 

[AZT9]

I completed half of my first road trip since the lift & tires were installed. 1.7 kWh average on the way out to visit family: 570 miles @ 70 MPH (speed limit was mostly 75).

I would have rather driven faster and charged more but am limited by charger availability/distance on this route.

This same stretch (reverse path - back in January & during a cold snap) when I bought the truck, was about 1.6 kWh, going 65 MPH (stock).

Thanks for your input. I took the plunge. Gonna try to install it this next week

 

[digitaldad]

Thanks for your input. I took the plunge. Gonna try to install it this next week

Nice! What’s the icon gear, UCAs?

 

[AZT9]

Nice! What’s the icon gear, UCAs?

Yes. After a lot of dilberation. I settled on the Delta pros. But reason is that they are tabbed for the onboard scale sensors my truck has. Only company I could find that had them

 

[AZT9]

Still torn on to set the rear to .3 or .7” tho

 

[digitaldad]

Yes. After a lot of dilberation. I settled on the Delta pros. But reason is that they are tabbed for the onboard scale sensors my truck has. Only company I could find that had them

The SPC I bought came with those too. The installers had mentioned that before I bought them as they previously did a Platinum that had them. My ‘23 had the scale delete..and no auto-leveling headlamps.

 

[digitaldad]

Still torn on to set the rear to .3 or .7” tho

If you think you won’t want to attempt any further lifting in the front after the Eibach install (ie. add a puck afterwards)…and you won’t routinely load the bed, the 0.3 is the best anti-rake stance for this kit IMHO.

If you more frequently load the bed, go for the 0.7 and have a slight rake when not loaded (or this if trying to get a bit more height in front with pucks).

 

[AZT9]

If you think you won’t want to attempt any further lifting in the front after the Eibach install (ie. add a puck afterwards)…and you won’t routinely load the bed, the 0.3 is the best anti-rake stance for this kit IMHO.

If you more frequently load the bed, go for the 0.7 and have a slight rake when not loaded (or this if trying to get a bit more height in front with pucks).

That helps a lot! Thanks for the info

 

[AZT9]

Ya got me thinking about the front. Any opinion on moving the front to the 2nd clip for more height vs the advertised 2.9” on the bottom clip?

 

[digitaldad]

The 2.9” is the maximum height setting for the fronts. @HI Zeus bought the shocks only (left OEM springs in place), which Eibach claims is 2.6”, but he also added a leveling puck.

His truck sits higher than mine but we didn’t measure the exact difference…well we grabbed the measuring tape but on my driveway incline, it wasn’t a very good attempt to get the real numbers.

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