Amber Charging Station Pro Fault and Ford Special Needs People in the EV support dept.

[12MattG12]

Looks like your FCSP is located outside. Not sure how much cover there is, but any chance of some moisture intrusion? Wouldn’t be the first time the seal on an FCSP has failed…

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[ClevelandBeemer]

Have you factory reset the unit?

 

[Randys Lightning]

Have you factory reset the unit?

Many Times

 

[MaintGrl]

First I see you have a 2024 Lightning, so your maximum charging rate is 48 amps.

Take a look at your Ford App, energy tab, Charge Station at the bottom of the scroll list.

Then look at Settings, hopefully you see the rate is at the maximum for your install most likely 48 amps, is the circuit breaker a 60 amp feeding power to the FCSP?

If you see a low value, try bumping it up to maximum.

Also, if you have time of use (TOU) charging rules programed in SYNC, try deleting all your rules, and see if the truck will take an immediate charge. If this fixes the problem, then rebuild your rules afterward.

Here are examples, note I am set for 80 amps because my FCSP is installed for the higher capacity dual onboard chargers.

My problem is . . that the pictured Charge stations on the Ford Pass App, are NOT the One I was given, I tried to pare mine which is NOT a 48a, but a 32a, and got nothing. Guess I was given a "Dumb" charger...
Mine gave me an "Amber" Light once, and I just unplugged for 5 min, then re-plugged, and it was back to Blue.

 

[Bwanapete]

my experiences with Ford help have been excellen. I once had charger trouble at home but not at DC fast chargers. Turned out the problem was mouse damage in the truck. While I was waiting for a dealer service appointment, Ford sent me a new wall charger but my dealer service appointment came before I installed it so I sent the new one back.

More recently on the day before Thanksgiving. I got the truck loaded for a road trip but the frunk would not close and FORD roadside assistance helped me restore it to proper operation. I think Ford Help is great.

 

[PJnc284]

My problem is . . that the pictured Charge stations on the Ford Pass App, are NOT the One I was given, I tried to pare mine which is NOT a 48a, but a 32a, and got nothing. Guess I was given a "Dumb" charger...
Mine gave me an "Amber" Light once, and I just unplugged for 5 min, then re-plugged, and it was back to Blue.

Are you talking about the mobile cord?

 

[MaintGrl]

Are you talking about the mobile cord?

Could be, . . . I wasn't aware that it might be called that...120/240v Was in the truck when I took possession of it.

 

[TaxmanHog]

Could be, . . . I wasn't aware that it might be called that...120/240v Was in the truck when I took possession of it.

That is indeed a dumb charger FMC {Ford Mobile Charger}, it can not connect to the Charge Station function in Ford App.

 

[chl]

Mine

Your original picture showed a blue and amber light which is a reduced charging situation, reduced from the max the internal dial is set to - so mine is set to 80A on the dial (and yes it is wired and breaker-ed for that) but because I have a SR battery model, my max charge rate is 48A.

As a result my FCPS always shows a blue with small amber when charging.

If you have only solid red, or only solid amber you may have an issue, however, after some power glitch perhaps, mine showed the solid red light, so I flipped the breaker in my service panel off for a couple minutes and back on and all was back to normal - solid blue light ready to charge.

Also....after an update to the FCSP sometime ago, I noticed the max charge current had gone down to some really low level like 10A or something - a default level? - and I had to raise it with the app back up to 48A max.

According to my documentation, the warranty is 3 years, but can be extended up to 12 months depending:

"...this limited warranty, covers any defect in the Product which
can be directly and exclusively attributed to design, workmanship or material defect of the Product for a period of three (3) years (the “Warranty Period”) after the Warranty Starting Date (as hereafter defined). The warranty start date is (i) the date on which the AC Hardware or Post is shipped to Customer or (ii) the date that is three (3) months after the date on which the DC Hardware is shipped to Customer.

The Buyer can apply to extend the DC Hardware Warranty start date. The
start date can be extended up to twelve (12) months after delivery, provided the charger is stored in continuous warehousing conditions (temperature controlled and indoors in accordance with supplier’s installation manual). In the event of a warranty claim, the burden of proof that the units were stored correctly will be on the end customer.

In order for the Limited Warranty to apply, Buyer must, in addition to the
other requirements set forth in this limited warranty,: (i) demonstrate
proof of purchase of the Product by Buyer from Ford, which proof shall
require Buyer’s dated purchase receipt from Buyer’s purchase of the
Product from Ford; (ii) have the Product installed at its site by a
licensed electrician in accordance with Ford’s written instructions
regarding installation of the Product; (iii) pay the full amount of the
purchase price for the Product to Ford; and (iv) use a third-party
approved by Ford as an authorized repairer for the Product (an
“Authorized Repairer”) to repair or replace any defective parts of the
Product...."

So 3 years is the warranty period from delivery unless the FCSP is stored as specified and you can prove it then an extra 12 months.

If flipping the breaker off then on a few minutes later doesn't clear the solid red indication, there is an internal button on the circuit board you could try pushing and holding for 30 second to reset the FCSP.

Obviously, be careful not to electrocute yourself in the process by touching things with your bare hands - electricians rubber gloves would be a good idea.

While you have it open look for any signs of trouble, for example, signs of excess heat (melted insulation on 240V feed wires - the red and black ones in the image below, charring on the circuit board, ruptured components, etc.).

If it looks like there was excess heat at the 240V feed wires, they may need to be tightened to the correct torque level - with the power off of course! If you don't have a torque driver, get one before attempting this, or just have a qualified electrician check the torque.

While you're at it, check the breaker that feeds the FCSP for signs of trouble - yes, they can fail over time, unusual if it was a new breaker though it happens. The breaker and the wiring etc, are subjected to relatively high current for a relatively long period of time (over 3 hours = continuous load) so they do get heat stressed.

I notice your FCSP seems to be mounted outdoors - so look for water intrusion - that had been an issue for some other FCSP owners with it mounted outside.

There are very important and specific requirements when outdoor mounting and if they weren't followed by your contractor, eventually water/moisture could get in and cause a failure. There have been posts about that happening. If that is the case, your complaint should be to the installer.

If you installed it yourself, and you are not a licensed electrician, then 1) no warranty claim could be enforced, 2) if all of the above ideas fail to fix your problem, then 3) look for a new EVSE and follow the following troubleshooting flow chart:

 

[MaintGrl]

Your original picture showed a blue and amber light which is a reduced charging situation, reduced from the max the internal dial is set to - so mine is set to 80A on the dial (and yes it is wired and breaker-ed for that) but because I have a SR battery model, my max charge rate is 48A.

As a result my FCPS always shows a blue with small amber when charging.

If you have only solid red, or only solid amber you may have an issue, however, after some power glitch perhaps, mine showed the solid red light, so I flipped the breaker in my service panel off for a couple minutes and back on and all was back to normal - solid blue light ready to charge.

Also....after an update to the FCSP sometime ago, I noticed the max charge current had gone down to some really low level like 10A or something - a default level? - and I had to raise it with the app back up to 48A max.

According to my documentation, the warranty is 3 years, but can be extended up to 12 months depending:

"...this limited warranty, covers any defect in the Product which
can be directly and exclusively attributed to design, workmanship or material defect of the Product for a period of three (3) years (the “Warranty Period”) after the Warranty Starting Date (as hereafter defined). The warranty start date is (i) the date on which the AC Hardware or Post is shipped to Customer or (ii) the date that is three (3) months after the date on which the DC Hardware is shipped to Customer.

The Buyer can apply to extend the DC Hardware Warranty start date. The
start date can be extended up to twelve (12) months after delivery, provided the charger is stored in continuous warehousing conditions (temperature controlled and indoors in accordance with supplier’s installation manual). In the event of a warranty claim, the burden of proof that the units were stored correctly will be on the end customer.

In order for the Limited Warranty to apply, Buyer must, in addition to the
other requirements set forth in this limited warranty,: (i) demonstrate
proof of purchase of the Product by Buyer from Ford, which proof shall
require Buyer’s dated purchase receipt from Buyer’s purchase of the
Product from Ford; (ii) have the Product installed at its site by a
licensed electrician in accordance with Ford’s written instructions
regarding installation of the Product; (iii) pay the full amount of the
purchase price for the Product to Ford; and (iv) use a third-party
approved by Ford as an authorized repairer for the Product (an
“Authorized Repairer”) to repair or replace any defective parts of the
Product...."

So 3 years is the warranty period from delivery unless the FCSP is stored as specified and you can prove it then an extra 12 months.

If flipping the breaker off then on a few minutes later doesn't clear the solid red indication, there is an internal button on the circuit board you could try pushing and holding for 30 second to reset the FCSP.

Obviously, be careful not to electrocute yourself in the process by touching things with your bare hands - electricians rubber gloves would be a good idea.

While you have it open look for any signs of trouble, for example, signs of excess heat (melted insulation on 240V feed wires - the red and black ones in the image below, charring on the circuit board, ruptured components, etc.).

If it looks like there was excess heat at the 240V feed wires, they may need to be tightened to the correct torque level - with the power off of course! If you don't have a torque driver, get one before attempting this, or just have a qualified electrician check the torque.

While you're at it, check the breaker that feeds the FCSP for signs of trouble - yes, they can fail over time, unusual if it was a new breaker though it happens. The breaker and the wiring etc, are subjected to relatively high current for a relatively long period of time (over 3 hours = continuous load) so they do get heat stressed.

I notice your FCSP seems to be mounted outdoors - so look for water intrusion - that had been an issue for some other FCSP owners with it mounted outside.

There are very important and specific requirements when outdoor mounting and if they weren't followed by your contractor, eventually water/moisture could get in and cause a failure. There have been posts about that happening. If that is the case, your complaint should be to the installer.

If you installed it yourself, and you are not a licensed electrician, then 1) no warranty claim could be enforced, 2) if all of the above ideas fail to fix your problem, then 3) look for a new EVSE and follow the following troubleshooting flow chart:

Love the flow chart...
or . . .

 

[chl]

Love the flow chart...
or . . .

Good one!

Then there is the universal repair tool - duct tape:

And the duct tape or WD-40 decision tree:

Works every time!

 

[MaintGrl]

Good one!

Then there is the universal repair tool - duct tape:

And the duct tape or WD-40 decision tree:

Works every time!

Yep, grey tape, RTV and bailing wire, can fix anything... (grey tape first . . )

 

[flyct]

My problem is . . that the pictured Charge stations on the Ford Pass App, are NOT the One I was given, I tried to pare mine which is NOT a 48a, but a 32a, and got nothing. Guess I was given a "Dumb" charger...
Mine gave me an "Amber" Light once, and I just unplugged for 5 min, then re-plugged, and it was back to Blue.

Note: apologize for. Post not related to OP’s issue.

If the “charger” came with the truck and it is a plug in then it’s a Mobile Charger, not a FCSP.

It is usually listed on the window sticker as a MOBILE POWER CORD (120V/240V) $500 option.

There are 2 versions. A 30 amp and a 32 amp version. The 30 amp is provided with a Lightning and the 32 amp is provided with Mach-E. The reason the 30 amp is provided with Lightning is so if used to charge another EV while plugged into the truck bed 240V/30A outlet it won’t trip the 30 amp breaker.

The Lightning 30 amp version has a yellow tape on the 14-50 cord. See picture below.

 

[MaintGrl]

Note: apologize for. Post not related to OP’s issue.

If the “charger” came with the truck and it is a plug in then it’s a Mobile Charger, not a FCSP.

It is usually listed on the window sticker as a MOBILE POWER CORD (120V/240V) $500 option.

There are 2 versions. A 30 amp and a 32 amp version. The 30 amp is provided with a Lightning and the 32 amp is provided with Mach-E. The reason the 30 amp is provided with Lightning is so if used to charge another EV while plugged into the truck bed 240V/30A outlet it won’t trip the 30 amp breaker.

The Lightning 30 amp version has a yellow tape on the 14-50 cord. See picture below.

Pardon me...

 

[flyct]

Pardon me...

Marsha,

Sorry, I don’t have Pardon power. ‍

I hope I didn’t offend you. I was just trying to educate others who were unaware of the unique reduced output of the Lightning Mobile Power Cord

I‘LL shut up and go back to sleep now.

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