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Lately, the beeps in my '23 Lightning have sounded different... why?

Basis0439

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Occasionally I'll start my truck and the beeps and dings all sound like they're run through a 1970s filter. They are more direct and basic sounding. It's difficult to explain what I am hearing (hence why I am asking here prior to going to my dealer to ask what's up).

Does anyone know why this happens? Is it something that I can resolve myself?

Does this make sense?!
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potato

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Your 12 volt battery is getting weak. If the voltage drops, I think the main audio system module gets shut down to conserve power, and on startup it will use a smaller in-dash speaker instead of the main speakers.
 

RocketGhost

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Technically here's what happens. Dings such as for the seatbelt are required by law. In our trucks beeps and dings are generated through the stereo system so they sound better. When you start the truck it goes through a self-test to make sure the audio system can generate the dings. If it fails it will revert to an old-school dedicated physical speaker under the dash as a fail-safe.

Sometimes the sound system doesn't boot up fast enough, usually due to low 12v that put the modules to sleep. Other things could cause it to fail the self test. I've heard that things like a short in one of the door speakers could cause it.

Given how weak the 12v batteries in our truck are and the age of your truck it may be time to replace the battery if there's not some other reason it may have a low charge.

The other day I gave my friend's car a jump start (Ford says don't jump another car from our trucks but I did it anyway). The next time I started the truck I got the old dings because it drained my 12v down. My truck has the original battery and it's three months shy of four years old. I think I might go ahead and replace it soon as a preventative measure.
 

Zprime29

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I've had this happen a small handful of times, it usually corrects itself after a good drive. My 12v is also over 3 years old now and seems to be in good shape. I have a jump starter in the frunk ready to go if needed. Thus far, I've used it to jump several co-workers' vehicles but not mine. *knocks on wood*
 

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Basis0439

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I called my dealer who told me that they would need to replicate the problem in order to go through the steps to determine if it is a warrantable item. I explained that it is intermittent, but has been occurring on/off for months now.

When I explained the issue, as I did above, they seemed to have not a clue what I was saying, which is also unfortunate...

I asked them if they could simply test the 12v, and they said they would need the truck for the day and I would borne the cost of the test.

It is too bad that something that should be so easy requires so many hoops to jump through.
 

TaxmanHog

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I called my dealer who told me that they would need to replicate the problem in order to go through the steps to determine if it is a warrantable item. I explained that it is intermittent, but has been occurring on/off for months now.

When I explained the issue, as I did above, they seemed to have not a clue what I was saying, which is also unfortunate...

I asked them if they could simply test the 12v, and they said they would need the truck for the day and I would borne the cost of the test.

It is too bad that something that should be so easy requires so many hoops to jump through.
Here's the dilemma, you could ride it out to just prior to the expiration of your bumper to bumper warranty, should it show consistently repeating symptoms or the truck fails to start, then it's a clear issue of a stressed battery, add in the headaches of getting towed into service, but you might get a free Motorcraft battery replacement.

OR

Bite the bullet now, get the battery and change the battery yourself, now or after it dies.

I was lucky enough that mine lasted a few days past the 36 month mark, as it turned out the battery was serviceable but I chose to swap it out for a DieHard H3.
 

chriserx

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Technically here's what happens. Dings such as for the seatbelt are required by law. In our trucks beeps and dings are generated through the stereo system so they sound better. When you start the truck it goes through a self-test to make sure the audio system can generate the dings. If it fails it will revert to an old-school dedicated physical speaker under the dash as a fail-safe.

Sometimes the sound system doesn't boot up fast enough, usually due to low 12v that put the modules to sleep. Other things could cause it to fail the self test. I've heard that things like a short in one of the door speakers could cause it.

Given how weak the 12v batteries in our truck are and the age of your truck it may be time to replace the battery if there's not some other reason it may have a low charge.

The other day I gave my friend's car a jump start (Ford says don't jump another car from our trucks but I did it anyway). The next time I started the truck I got the old dings because it drained my 12v down. My truck has the original battery and it's three months shy of four years old. I think I might go ahead and replace it soon as a preventative measure.
Thank you for that, I always wondered why everyone associated the tone change with a failing 12v, now it makes sense.
 

P-38

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Technically here's what happens. Dings such as for the seatbelt are required by law. In our trucks beeps and dings are generated through the stereo system so they sound better. When you start the truck it goes through a self-test to make sure the audio system can generate the dings. If it fails it will revert to an old-school dedicated physical speaker under the dash as a fail-safe.

Sometimes the sound system doesn't boot up fast enough, usually due to low 12v that put the modules to sleep. Other things could cause it to fail the self test. I've heard that things like a short in one of the door speakers could cause it.

Given how weak the 12v batteries in our truck are and the age of your truck it may be time to replace the battery if there's not some other reason it may have a low charge.

The other day I gave my friend's car a jump start (Ford says don't jump another car from our trucks but I did it anyway). The next time I started the truck I got the old dings because it drained my 12v down. My truck has the original battery and it's three months shy of four years old. I think I might go ahead and replace it soon as a preventative measure.
Does this also apply to the parking sensors? Sometimes those are different as we pull into our garage. Never can find a trigger to make it repeatable for a dealership visit.
 
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Basis0439

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Here's the dilemma, you could ride it out to just prior to the expiration of your bumper to bumper warranty, should it show consistently repeating symptoms or the truck fails to start, then it's a clear issue of a stressed battery, add in the headaches of getting towed into service, but you might get a free Motorcraft battery replacement.

OR

Bite the bullet now, get the battery and change the battery yourself, now or after it dies.

I was lucky enough that mine lasted a few days past the 36 month mark, as it turned out the battery was serviceable but I chose to swap it out for a DieHard H3.
I think you're right. Unfortunately, the DieHard H3 is difficult to source up in Canada. Is there an alternative one would suggest that is available in Canada?
 

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I think you're right. Unfortunately, the DieHard H3 is difficult to source up in Canada. Is there an alternative one would suggest that is available in Canada?
I don't, but your fellow Canadians on the forum might have suggestions.
 

chl

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All of the above...and...get yourself a battery maintainer too, your battery will last longer and you will have less hassles in the long run.

Many of us owners have done that - it's a $40 insurance plan, worth every penny and more!
 
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Basis0439

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Update:

My local Ford dealer told me that to test my battery and assess my truck, they would need it in the shop for at least one full day and that I would be on the hook for the 12v battery test should this not be the source of the issue.

So I took my truck to a local battery shop and they tested my OEM 12v in (literally) 10 seconds (for free, of course, since it took 10 seconds). They said the battery health was looking very good for its age, and that I could expect a few more years out of it.

So, I am unsure what could be causing my truck to revert to the basic sounds that I am hearing.
 

chriserx

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Update:

My local Ford dealer told me that to test my battery and assess my truck, they would need it in the shop for at least one full day and that I would be on the hook for the 12v battery test should this not be the source of the issue.

So I took my truck to a local battery shop and they tested my OEM 12v in (literally) 10 seconds (for free, of course, since it took 10 seconds). They said the battery health was looking very good for its age, and that I could expect a few more years out of it.

So, I am unsure what could be causing my truck to revert to the basic sounds that I am hearing.
Could just be down to a quirk of the 12v system in the truck, btw anyone ever plug in a battery maintainer to the pro power in the frunk? Would it even make a difference? I figure it likely would shut off with the truck but I've never actually used any of the outlets since I only have the 120s. I have a use for the 7.2 but I wrongly assumed the truck came with it....live and learn.
 

NotPatel

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both times my truck left me stranded, I got in and the chime sounded off. My heated seat/steering week didnt work.

The chime was my first clue. My 12V battery was dead, but it was not bad. My inverter and battery module went, causing my 12V to die. If you drove to the place that tested your battery, it probably was charged from driving. Can you test it with a multi meter or tender at home when it sat overnight?

IMO, I would not risk 12V issues. Obviously, mine had other issues like HV battery module and inverter, but my truck bricked at 45 mph. Could not even free roll - it could have been bad.
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