(Wrong Key#72) How can I get into the truck if the physical lock is broken and the 12V battery is dead?

[Gimme_my_MME]

I just tried the lock from the 2022 LER in my 2023 LER door lock & it did not turn. The 2023 FOB key did turn the lock as expected.

Thanks for checking

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[Adventureboy]

Excellent thread to have just in case..... I have a permanently mounted 5A NOCO charger that would have saved me for this case, but I've packed this trick into my memory banks in case I need it someday.

 

[proprepper]

I've got a lot easier way for you to get in. I've had repeated issues with the FRUNK getting stuck in the AJAR position. Won't close and latch and won't open past the 1st unlock latch. The only way dealers and myself have been able to get into the frunk is use a 10mm long handle wrench and remove the 2 bolts holding the latching hasp from the underside of the hood. You'll need a good flashlight to see them with the hood raised as much as possible (use something stuffed between hood and bumper to hold it up)
Once you get the frunk open - you'll have access to the 12v!!
next time it happens to me I'll make a video

 

[Chaldaean]

… to get into the frunk is use a 10mm long handle wrench and remove the 2 bolts holding the latching hasp from the underside of the hood…

Great tip! This wouldn't have worked in my case as my frunk was fully closed, but it may be useful in future cases. Thank you!

I feel like I should zip tie a 10 mm long handle wrench somewhere underneath the truck in case I need it.

 

[Adventureboy]

I've got a lot easier way for you to get in. I've had repeated issues with the FRUNK getting stuck in the AJAR position. Won't close and latch and won't open past the 1st unlock latch. The only way dealers and myself have been able to get into the frunk is use a 10mm long handle wrench and remove the 2 bolts holding the latching hasp from the underside of the hood. You'll need a good flashlight to see them with the hood raised as much as possible (use something stuffed between hood and bumper to hold it up)
Once you get the frunk open - you'll have access to the 12v!!
next time it happens to me I'll make a video

Would this work if the Funk is fully latched? In your case, it seems it was only partially latched, leaving a bit of room for the wrench.

 

[proprepper]

Would this work if the Funk is fully latched? In your case, it seems it was only partially latched, leaving a bit of room for the wrench.

No......only if you've got it in the ajar position. Its a tight squeeze but it works to get it open if its stuck in limbo.

 

[TaxmanHog]

I've got a lot easier way for you to get in. I've had repeated issues with the FRUNK getting stuck in the AJAR position. Won't close and latch and won't open past the 1st unlock latch. The only way dealers and myself have been able to get into the frunk is use a 10mm long handle wrench and remove the 2 bolts holding the latching hasp from the underside of the hood. You'll need a good flashlight to see them with the hood raised as much as possible (use something stuffed between hood and bumper to hold it up)
Once you get the frunk open - you'll have access to the 12v!!
next time it happens to me I'll make a video

Please make that video, your solution has been used and discussed a couple of times over the past 3+ years. Create a new thread for your video and I'll stick it in the service/maintenance section.

 

[bc1]

No......only if you've got it in the ajar position. Its a tight squeeze but it works to get it open if its stuck in limbo.

OK. I was hoping you this wasn't also going to be a place for potential thieves to break in. I'll take a look later.

That said, is there a way to run a hidden cable or zip tie from that point to the latch to release the latch? Then have something to reach in and grab it later?

 

[proprepper]

Believe it or not the manual frunk release inside the drivers side wall should do just that but in my case it does not release the 2nd lock on the frunk. There is somebody on here that disassembled that mechanism and tightened the cord to make it work like it should.

I kinda think something could be made that would reach DOWN into the latch to release the 2nd lock. When its not -10 and I have time- I'll mess around with it more.

 

[ctuan13]

Considering the rear doors have pull able lock pins sticking out of the the top of the door panel, couldn't a locksmith just wedge one of the rear doors and pull up on the lock pin unlocking that door?

 

[chriserx]

Great tip! This wouldn't have worked in my case as my frunk was fully closed, but it may be useful in future cases. Thank you!

I feel like I should zip tie a 10 mm long handle wrench somewhere underneath the truck in case I need it.

Maybe something like this

 

[Chaldaean]

Here's an update on root cause:

I took the truck to the dealer, showed them the video of the lock spinning 360 degrees and they replaced the lock cylinder. That did not fix the issue.

Come to find out, when I purchased the truck, I was given two key fobs. Both electronic fobs work fine, but the physical keys were cut differently. So, when the battery died and I got locked out of the truck, the working/good key was locked inside the truck (I keep it in an RFID blocking bag) and I was attempting to use the non-working/bad key to get inside the truck.

This week, mobile service came to my house to update the software for the parking brake recall and they cut a new key at that time. So, I should be good to go if I get locked out again. What an adventure.

 

[chl]

Excellent thread to have just in case..... I have a permanently mounted 5A NOCO charger that would have saved me for this case, but I've packed this trick into my memory banks in case I need it someday.

An hopefully keep the battery healthier so it will have a long and happy life!

 

[chl]

Here's an update on root cause:

I took the truck to the dealer, showed them the video of the lock spinning 360 degrees and they replaced the lock cylinder. That did not fix the issue.

Come to find out, when I purchased the truck, I was given two key fobs. Both electronic fobs work fine, but the physical keys were cut differently. So, when the battery died and I got locked out of the truck, the working/good key was locked inside the truck (I keep it in an RFID blocking bag) and I was attempting to use the non-working/bad key to get inside the truck.

This week, mobile service came to my house to update the software for the parking brake recall and they cut a new key at that time. So, I should be good to go if I get locked out again. What an adventure.

That's terrible that the key was cut wrong.
The other root cause was a dead battery of course.

 

[Chaldaean]

The other root cause was a dead battery of course.

Yes, the dealer also tested the health of the OEM battery while replacing the lock cylinder. The battery did not pass the test and was replaced.

I also purchased/installed an ANCEL BM300 Pro battery monitor so I can keep an eye on the charge.

I also purchased a NOCO Genius1, but have not used/installed it yet.

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