80amp charger questions

[chl]

I have a ‘23 ER Lightning. I am really interested in a 80 amp charger. I often ge my home at midnight or 1am and sometimes leave at 6-7am. And sometimes tow on those quick turnarounds.
Does Tesla make an 80amp charger? Or is the Ford charger the only one? Does the app let you choose to charge between 48a and 80a?

Try ebay or the for sale on this forum, you'll find the Ford Charge Station Pros for sale at a discount, I got mine for $600 on ebay new in the box and the warranty transfers if the previous owner calls a toll free number.

Yes there were some software bugs, but nothing that kept it from charging the truck, just adding the FCSP to the Ford Pass app was an issue for me...but then there was an update to the FCSP software AND to FordPass that solved the problem.

I have had no issues since then, except when the is an over the air update to the Lightning which resets things to default.

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[chl]

I am surprised you are all having the problems with the Ford Charge Station Pro. I installed a 100am circuit for it, and I've never used anything else OTHER THAN the Ford Charge Station Pro (except when traveling of course) - and I havn't had a single problem.

I have a Lariat ER.

The only problem I had was with the setup app not completing the program errored at the ADD to FordPass step - but still charged the Lightning fine with out that. Then they updated the software in the FCSP and FordPass and now it is added and no troubles.

 

[chl]

i just got my Ford Wall Charger Pro installed yesterday.

its on 60amp breaker(circuit?) and its set at 48A(as labeled by the electrician who installed it)
when i initially opened the app, Charge current was initially set at 6A, i thought this was wrong so i set it at 48A. did i set it right? i tried setting to 60A (to match the breaker) but i get a "Charge Station derate failed".

Yes, I noticed that too recently when I opened the FCSP via FordPass...seems like it was a default, a ridiculous default.

 

[chl]

Honestly I question the need for 80A charging. Take a look at the Ford published figures for charging from 15-100% below. Unless you have an ER battery, there is no difference in charge time from 48 to 80A...and even with the ER battery, the charge times shown are worst case.

My tl;dr take is that 95% of all people should be perfectly fine with a 48A charger for overnight home charging.

1) You are (or rather SHOULD) not be charging to 100% but for the few long distance trips you need to take per year. Otherwise, you are likely charging to 80% on any given day

2) Given charging is fast up to 80% then slows to a crawl from 80-100%, the charge times below are reduced considerably.

3) Given most don't allow their vehicle to get down to 15% but likely closer to having 30% be the starting point, that shrinks the time further.

I have the CSP connected to a 60A circuit, so 48A charge capabilities...and I see ~8% charge added per hour. Meaning that you only need a little over 6 hours to charge to 80% from 30%...which is typically more than doable via overnight charging.

Here are some of my experiences:

Start / End charge - Time to complete
19% / 51% - 4:02 hrs (actual time...ended charge early)
32% / 80% - 6:36 hrs
20% / 80% - 7:37 hrs
31% / 100% - 9:19 hrs

Depends on how many miles a day you drive and under what conditions.
A forum member contacted me to try my FCSP last summer to see if his ER Lightning would charge at 80A and then, when it did, he went and got the dealership to give him a FCSP free. My understanding was that he needed the faster charging because of the number of miles he drove every day.

For about $150 you can adapt the FCSP to work with a non-CCS1 vehicle by buying a j1772 extension and trimming a small piece of plastic so it will fit into the CCS1 J1772 part.

Where the "X" is.

There are plenty of J1772 to NACS adapters one could use with the extension cable as well if needed.

Or if you are electrically savvy, just replace the CCS1 cable with an 80A J1772 or NACS cable and plug - they use the same signalling for AC (L2) charging to tell the EVSE to close the contacts and connect the vehicle to the 240V source.

If you have a Lightning now with CCS1, you'll need to use an adapter (NACS to J1772) to any NACS charger you install to use for the next 8 to 10 years you own your Lightning anyway.

Plus the Tesla CEO is a despicable person if that matters to you, so why make him even richer by buying a Tesla EVSE?

 

[lex]

I don't believe that last guidance to be true...at least for Tesla's. I shaved that plastic part off and connected the NACS adapter to the CCS plug as you suggested and it only resulted in charge faults against a 2023 Model Y.

So if have personally performed this surgery (as I have), and it worked, then please do share which vehicles you successfully charged using the FCSP charger?

 

[jppritchard]

I have a ‘23 ER Lightning. I am really interested in a 80 amp charger. I often ge my home at midnight or 1am and sometimes leave at 6-7am. And sometimes tow on those quick turnarounds.
Does Tesla make an 80amp charger? Or is the Ford charger the only one? Does the app let you choose to charge between 48a and 80a?

I have a 2023 and use an 80A breaker for 64A charge at 13.1KW. It has worked great for 2 years and maybe improved a little with the app updates. There is some data you get from the charger that is spotty at best but I got used to not getting it (the charge cost based on your utility). The charge rate can be adjusted in the app.

 

[rdr854]

All of the '22-'23 ER trucks originally came with a Ford Charge Station Pro.

I have the Ford Charge Station Pro and operated it at full capacity (80A on a 100A circuit, 19.2kW charging) for about 11 months. I reduced the charge rate when my wife got a Mach-E so that we could install a second charger (a ChargePoint Home Flex) for her vehicle. Overall I've used the FCSP for nearly 2 years without problems.

There is normally no need to adjust charging rates -- if the install is done correctly, you are safe charging at 19.2kW regardless.

There are a few consumer-level 19.2kW chargers out there:

• Enphase (formerly Clipper Creek) CS-100
• Ford Charge Station Pro
• GM/Chevrolet PowerUP+
• Grizzl-E Ultimate 80A
• Leviton EV80W
• Porsche Wall Charger Connect

There are a few more options once you get into the fleet and commercial space.

The county that I live in won’t let you do that absent some sort of cut off so that only one charger can function at a time in the same 100 amp circuit. Don’t have the details on that yet.

My plan is to install a second FCSP in my garage for my Volvo EX90 so I don’t have to run the cable under the garage door.

 

[Maquis]

The county that I live in won’t let you do that absent some sort of cut off so that only one charger can function at a time in the same 100 amp circuit. Don’t have the details on that yet.

My plan is to install a second FCSP in my garage for my Volvo EX90 so I don’t have to run the cable under the garage door.

He didn’t state that his chargers were on he same circuit. It’s likely that he deprecated the FCSP to free up capacity in his panel for a second branch circuit.

 

[djwildstar]

The county that I live in won’t let you do that absent some sort of cut off so that only one charger can function at a time in the same 100 amp circuit. My plan is to install a second FCSP in my garage for my Volvo EX90 so I don’t have to run the cable under the garage door.

Most jurisdictions don't allow multiple chargers on one circuit (it is allowed under the newest code, but most places haven't updated to that version of the code). My city doesn't allow multiple chargers on one circuit, either.

So here's what my electrician did:

First, we set the FCSP's internal switch to 48A (11.52kW), which requires a 60A circuit. He disconnected the FCSP's circuit from my main panel. Then he wired up a 100A sub-panel near the main panel, using the 100A breaker from the original FCSP install. He hooked the FCSP's circuit to the sub-panel and put it on a 60A breaker in the sub-panel. Finally, he wired up a 40A circuit for the ChargePoint Home Flex for my wife's Mach-E. The ChargePoint went in right next to the sub-panel in the garage, because that is right where she parks.

The wires that serve the FCSP are oversized for a 60A circuit, but that's allowed by code (and we didn't have to pull new wire, which would have been really expensive). We were able to retain the 100A breaker in the main panel, and didn't have to re-arrange anything in the main panel (also expensive).

I personally wouldn't put in a second FCSP. I'm using one for my truck because it was included with the truck (for '22-'23 ER Lightnings, the FCSP is standard equipment). We got my wife's Mach-E before the Ford Power Promise, so I went with the ChargePoint because it has a good reputation for reliability, and the charge plug is relatively light and the cord is flexible and easy to handle (a big plus for my wife who has arthritis).

Your EX90 has a maximum Level 2 acceptance rate of 11kW, meaning that the FCSP is overkill. Unless you have a second one lying around, I'd go with something else (Autel, ChargePoint, Emporia, Enphase, Flo, and WallBox are all reputable). I'd start by checking with my electric company and seeing if they have any discounts (mine sells the ChargePoint for $200 off).

I've learned after having the Lightning (over 2 years) and Mach-E (over a year) that we don't need the maximum charging rate. What we need is to recharge our daily driving.

Our electric company sells half-price electricity for EV charging from 11pm to 7am, so all we need is enough power to recharge our daily driving in 8 hours. I typically drive 75 mi/day, at 2.3 mi/kWh and 90% charging efficency, I need just over 36kWh a night, or a 4.53kW charge rate. A 20A circuit isn't quite enough, and a 30A circuit would more than do it. My wife typically drives 40 miles/day at 2.7 mi/kWh and 90% charging efficency, so she needs 16.4kWh a night, or a 2.05kW charge rate. In her case, a 15A circuit (usually the smallest Level 2 available) will more than do the trick.

 

[RickLightning]

To the point of not needing the max charging rate, we HAD two JB48s on one circuit, load sharing. Then JB went away, so I replaced the boards with ones from OpenEVSE, which work great, but they have no load sharing in their software. Apparently, people are working on enabling that.

As such, I have each set to 24amps. Should I need more, I simply unplug or lower one of them, and raise the other, quite easy in the app. But our normal driving is such that 24amps is more than we need also.

 

[rdr854]

Your EX90 has a maximum Level 2 acceptance rate of 11kW, meaning that the FCSP is overkill. Unless you have a second one lying around, I'd go with something else (Autel, ChargePoint, Emporia, Enphase, Flo, and WallBox are all reputable). I'd start by checking with my electric company and seeing if they have any discounts (mine sells the ChargePoint for $200 off).

I bought a second Ford Charge Station Pro on eBay for $600 when I thought I was going to have to replace the cable on my existing unit. You see, I’m that guy who figured out how to get the plug stuck in the unit so that it would not release to allow me to charge the truck. I would like to put the unit to use so that I can charge the EX90 in the garage without having to increase the service to my house or run the existing plug/cable under the garage door.

By the way, the Volvo is an awesome car (and extremely comfortable). It’s only problem is the software which will hopefully be sorted soon.

 

[21st Century Truck]

I bought a second Ford Charge Station Pro on eBay for $600 when I thought I was going to have to replace the cable on my existing unit. You see, I’m that guy who figured out how to get the plug stuck in the unit so that it would not release to allow me to charge the truck. I would like to put the unit to use so that I can charge the EX90 in the garage without having to increase the service to my house or run the existing plug/cable under the garage door.

By the way, the Volvo is an awesome car (and extremely comfortable). It’s only problem is the software which will hopefully be sorted soon.

How To (idea / concept): I was wondering the same with my FCSP. I eventually plan to, in sequence:

- deactivate the FCSP breaker
- Dremel off the useless-to-me two fake DC connectors on the bottom of the FCSP handle and their part of the FCSP housing to a depth that will allow plugging it into a pure Level 2 receptacle. This surgery will only cut through the two visible copper(?) fake DC connector ends and through their immediately adjacent nylon housing... no other FCSP circuitry should be affected.
- seal the wound in the FCSP handle with black electric Liquid Tape brush-on goo.
- turn the FCSP breaker back on.

Of course, I do not have and will not buy the Ford / Siemens problematic and pricy HIS vehicle-to-house addition which I do not need anyway, with my truck's PowerPro 240V 30 amp connector and my house panel's Reliance transfer switch.

I'll report with pics whenever I get around to doing this FCSP handle surgery.

 

[djwildstar]

I eventually plan to [...] Dremel off the useless-to-me two fake DC connectors on the bottom of the FCSP handle and their part of the FCSP housing[.]

OP's EX90 is a fully-electric vehicle with a J1772+CCS1 charge port, so it will accept the unmodified FCSP plug. Overall, OP's strategy does make sense because he has an otherwise-unused FCSP just lying around.

I personally would not recommend the course of action you're contemplating. The FCSP may have temperature sensors in the charge plug. If so, I don't know where they're physically located or how their circuitry is routed. It is possible (and I have no idea how likely) that your modification could compromise sensors such that the unit refuses to charge. Even if the FCSP does work, this sort of modification likely violates electrical and fire-safety codes.

If you have a plug-in hybrid, my suggestion would be to sell the FCSP and purchase a pure-J1772 unit (Autel, ChargePoint, DeWalt, Emporia, Enphase, Flo, and WallBox are all reputable). It will work fine for both the Lightning and any other PHEV or J1772 BEV you might happen to have.

I have heard of folks successfully modifying a J1772-to-Tesla adapter such that they can charge a Tesla EV from the FCSP. You could potentially modify a J1772 extension cord (itself not permitted by the electrical code) in a similar way to achieve the goal you're after.

 

[21st Century Truck]

OP's EX90 is a fully-electric vehicle with a J1772+CCS1 charge port, so it will accept the unmodified FCSP plug. Overall, OP's strategy does make sense because he has an otherwise-unused FCSP just lying around.

I personally would not recommend the course of action you're contemplating. The FCSP may have temperature sensors in the charge plug. If so, I don't know where they're physically located or how their circuitry is routed. It is possible (and I have no idea how likely) that your modification could compromise sensors such that the unit refuses to charge. Even if the FCSP does work, this sort of modification likely violates electrical and fire-safety codes.

If you have a plug-in hybrid, my suggestion would be to sell the FCSP and purchase a pure-J1772 unit (Autel, ChargePoint, DeWalt, Emporia, Enphase, Flo, and WallBox are all reputable). It will work fine for both the Lightning and any other PHEV or J1772 BEV you might happen to have.

I have heard of folks successfully modifying a J1772-to-Tesla adapter such that they can charge a Tesla EV from the FCSP. You could potentially modify a J1772 extension cord (itself not permitted by the electrical code) in a similar way to achieve the goal you're after.

I hadn't considered the likely heat sensors... thank You.

 

[chl]

I don't believe that last guidance to be true...at least for Tesla's. I shaved that plastic part off and connected the NACS adapter to the CCS plug as you suggested and it only resulted in charge faults against a 2023 Model Y.

So if have personally performed this surgery (as I have), and it worked, then please do share which vehicles you successfully charged using the FCSP charger?

This was not originally intended for an NACS adapter - this was for a J1772 extension cable - the part to shave off allows the J1772 plug to fit onto the CCS1 plug for example L2 (AC) charging.

But assuming the NACS adapter has a J1772 end and that is what you altered, I have no idea why it did not work unless there is something inside the NACS adapter that alters the J1772 signaling or the plug did not make a good electrical connection with the NACS adapter's J1772 side, or Tesla has some other NACS adapter feature that caused a problem.

If the plug seated properly and fully in the J1772 socket part of the CCS1 plug, and made good electrical connection, it should have worked because/if Tesla uses the same J1772 standard signaling for L2 charging, so I suspect the adapter might not be fully electrically connected to the CCS1 plug.

I have not bought a J1772 extension cord and performed the surgery myself but another Lightning FCSP owner had and posted that it worked on their J1772 vehicle - don't recall the make or model but I don't think it was a Tesla. I will see if I saved the info about the post and get back to you.

In the mean time:
1) test the continuity of the pins on the adapter you modified one by one and see if they are carrying the test current and
2) check the fit of the adapter into the CCS1 plug to see if it seats fully.

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