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dww

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You all need to ensure you clarify which system you are talking about - they are all powered differently.

The B&O 8 speaker, all 4 doors, the center dash and sub are powered by the Amp in back. The front tweeters are powered by the ACM/HU. When you upgrade with an amp on this system you can use the wiring to the 4 doors, but you have to run wires from the new amp to the tweeters. You don't have a center speaker in most after market systems, so it just sits unused. The wiring diagram is the same as ICE and located here - https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/tweeter-wire-not-in-door.14881/post-305440

The 6 speaker lower end system has 4 audio outputs and the front tweeters and front doors get the same signal on each side. Wiring diagram and discussion in this thread - https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/pro-audio-upgrade.8460/post-307711

The B&O Unleashed the font tweeter and rear doors are powered by the ACM/HU - the rest are from the amps.
Ok, Sorry. I thought I had seen a post saying the rears speakers were not from the rear amp in B&O.
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GDN

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Ok, Sorry. I thought I had seen a post saying the rears speakers were not from the rear amp in B&O.
You could have but it might have been referencing the Unleashed system. That is why I thought it might be worth the clarification on the different systems. Ford didn't make this easy on anyone. Many different systems used on different trims for a long time.

The overhead of all those systems hurt them as a company as much as anything. Put a single set of hardware in - limit some of it on lower trims if that is how they want to do it. The overhead of multiple systems probably doesn't offset the costs for manufacturing and trying to manage the assembly line.
 

Paulb55

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Just wrapped doing doors and tweeters with kickers and lots of sound deadening. saving for the hideaway...
The OP replaced the center channel as well. has anyone else? is it worth it? If so what did you use?
I have a 24 Lariat with the standard B&crap installed.
 

derelict

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Based on input from this thread and from the Gen14 forum, I recently upgraded my 2023 XLT system. I went with the powerboost Ford Drop ins which fit all the mountings (including the A pillar) and have all the Ford connectors so it is plug and play.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE69CFD/PowerBass-OE69C-FD.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE652FD/PowerBass-OE652-FD.html

So I first installed these and the block off plates from SGS.

I have to say, while it was an improvement, it did not knock my socks off. I felt like something was missing. Then I realized that while the bass sounded tighter, it was really missing the low end. So then I decided to put in a sub and ended up going with the Kicker 51HS10 (newer version of the one the OP used)

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651HS10/Kicker-51HS10.html

to wire in the sub I used the PAC audio T harness:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541LPHFD31/PAC-LPHFD31-LocPro-Advanced-T-Harness.html

I bought a LOC but then I realized that the HS10 has a LOC built in and can accept the signal straight from the head unit so i am going to return the LOC I bought. I watched a bunch of youtube videos installing and using this T-harness, but when I installed it I realized that it was much easier than in the videos. I don't know why, but they remove a bunch of trim pieces, unscrew the climate controls, take off the side console trims, etc... All I had to do was remove the one trim piece that goes around the display, then remove the trim piece that sits under the storage cubby on top of the display. After that you can unscrew the head unit and pull it straight up to install the T-harness. It was super simple.

Once I got the sub wired in, and buttoned everything up, all I can say is that the system now sounds amazing. The sub really fills out the missing low end. So for just under $900 total, I feel like this was a great upgrade!
 

CRAIGC540

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Based on input from this thread and from the Gen14 forum, I recently upgraded my 2023 XLT system. I went with the powerboost Ford Drop ins which fit all the mountings (including the A pillar) and have all the Ford connectors so it is plug and play.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE69CFD/PowerBass-OE69C-FD.html
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_151OE652FD/PowerBass-OE652-FD.html

So I first installed these and the block off plates from SGS.

I have to say, while it was an improvement, it did not knock my socks off. I felt like something was missing. Then I realized that while the bass sounded tighter, it was really missing the low end. So then I decided to put in a sub and ended up going with the Kicker 51HS10 (newer version of the one the OP used)

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20651HS10/Kicker-51HS10.html

to wire in the sub I used the PAC audio T harness:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541LPHFD31/PAC-LPHFD31-LocPro-Advanced-T-Harness.html

I bought a LOC but then I realized that the HS10 has a LOC built in and can accept the signal straight from the head unit so i am going to return the LOC I bought. I watched a bunch of youtube videos installing and using this T-harness, but when I installed it I realized that it was much easier than in the videos. I don't know why, but they remove a bunch of trim pieces, unscrew the climate controls, take off the side console trims, etc... All I had to do was remove the one trim piece that goes around the display, then remove the trim piece that sits under the storage cubby on top of the display. After that you can unscrew the head unit and pull it straight up to install the T-harness. It was super simple.

Once I got the sub wired in, and buttoned everything up, all I can say is that the system now sounds amazing. The sub really fills out the missing low end. So for just under $900 total, I feel like this was a great upgrade!
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derelict

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@ derelict said
Can you link me to the install video you speak of?


This is one by Provo Beast... It is extremely helpful but I didn't take off any of the other trim or unscrew anything in front. I just took the top piece off and pulled the head unit straight up. I did remove my lower glovebox, I ran the wires from behind that up into the area where the head unit is.
 

F150Redux

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Looking to upgrade my 8 speaker B and O. Has anyone experience with the Alpine R2-S65 coaxials? They look like a newer version of the R-S65. The R2 appears to be a little deeper and I’m wondering if there will be any mounting issue.
Also, if anyone has any other recommendations for speakers I’m all ears.
Haven't finished reading the rest of this thread yet, but I just installed the R2 Alpines in my 2025 Lightning with no issue. Figured I'd go with the R2s in case I ever update the amp/etc. in the future.

Just ordered the Dayton center speaker from Amazon so now trying to figure out what to do for a speaker mount. Wondering if anyone was able to reuse the existing mount/harness?
 

Jackdforme

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Haven't finished reading the rest of this thread yet, but I just installed the R2 Alpines in my 2025 Lightning with no issue. Figured I'd go with the R2s in case I ever update the amp/etc. in the future.

Just ordered the Dayton center speaker from Amazon so now trying to figure out what to do for a speaker mount. Wondering if anyone was able to reuse the existing mount/harness?
thought that the Dayton dropped in?
 

F150Redux

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thought that the Dayton dropped in?
Hadn't seen any posts saying that. Did see one or two that said the holes didn't line up and found a thingaverse 3d printed adapter. Guess I'll find out when the speaker arrives (or as I keep researching).
 

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richguy82

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Haven't finished reading the rest of this thread yet, but I just installed the R2 Alpines in my 2025 Lightning with no issue. Figured I'd go with the R2s in case I ever update the amp/etc. in the future.

Just ordered the Dayton center speaker from Amazon so now trying to figure out what to do for a speaker mount. Wondering if anyone was able to reuse the existing mount/harness?
Is the sound notably better? I bought all of the speakers and materials, but the temps outside were getting to be a little too much. I’ll probably wait at least a couple more months at this point
 

F150Redux

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Is the sound notably better? I bought all of the speakers and materials, but the temps outside were getting to be a little too much. I’ll probably wait at least a couple more months at this point
Over all it does sound better. That's just my subjective opinion with no data to back it up. ;)

I just got my Lightning mid-June and don't have a lot of drive/listening time before the change. The center speaker is still off/overwhelming, so in the fade/balance I have things two "clicks" to the rear.

I didn't add any blocks or other materials. Just replaced the front and rear speakers with the Alpine R2s. Will install the center will it comes in next week and see how it changes things.

I installed mine on Tuesday when it was almost 100 here in MA. Garage was a little cooler than outside, but not by much as I had both garage doors open for light/air.
 

GDN

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Haven't finished reading the rest of this thread yet, but I just installed the R2 Alpines in my 2025 Lightning with no issue. Figured I'd go with the R2s in case I ever update the amp/etc. in the future.

Just ordered the Dayton center speaker from Amazon so now trying to figure out what to do for a speaker mount. Wondering if anyone was able to reuse the existing mount/harness?
You skip the center, not needed. Just unplug it.
 

Storm Breaker

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i strongly disagree with the you dont need it unplug it when talking about the center speaker. im only speaking for myself here. i upgraded to the dayton center and the vocals sound amazing. i upped the bass alot (again personal pref) upped the highs a bit and lowered the mids a bit. all from the oringinal middle settings. everything comes in loud and most importantly, clear. I did the exact same setup as the OP.
 

richguy82

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i strongly disagree with the you dont need it unplug it when talking about the center speaker. im only speaking for myself here. i upgraded to the dayton center and the vocals sound amazing. i upped the bass alot (again personal pref) upped the highs a bit and lowered the mids a bit. all from the oringinal middle settings. everything comes in loud and most importantly, clear. I did the exact same setup as the OP.
What do you need to upgrade to the Dayton on the 8 speaker B&O? How easily does the grill cover come off. I haven’t found a video removing it. Is this the speaker? https://a.co/d/0t4ZbpT
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