Trailer Brake System Fault (See Manual) After the Recall

[TaxmanHog]

Do you know if I am responsible for paying that or is Ford?

Aren't we covered for towing under Fords roadside ?
UPDATE: I see you have a 2022, assuming your 36 month warranty has expired, do you have extended coverage? If no then you'll be responsible for the fees to tow to dealership.

I also have AAA plus 100 miles towing.

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[Intellibeam]

All sounds like the 12v battery to me, as others said.
Get it up to 14.2 volts or so and see what happens.

Could be the BMS sensor or the system programming for the LV system was not reset properly or has a fault...there was a recall CSB on them a while ago.

One person had similar issues when the swapped the battery and the reason was the lugs on the new battery were not tightened enough - I know sounds hard to believe but thats what fixed it, tightening them up.

Word of caution about the Lightning LV battery: If it gets too low, the DC-DC charger on the Lightning will put much more than the standard 10.5A recommended for a 35Ah battery on it and that will shorten it's lifespan considerably over time. Keep it on a tickle charger with an AGM mode when not being driven as much as possible to avoid high charging currents.

OF course if all else fails get Ford involved and kiss your money good bye unless there is time on you B to B warranty left. Tacking down electrical issues takes time.

So 11.5v will cause these kind of issues? I did get a new Diehard EV battery but the date code was 10/24 which is making me think I got double screwed as it’s sat for a year.

 

[chriserx]

Both pics 9.65V and 11.55V are serious 12 volt battery problems, tbh I've never got a 12v battery much below 11. You cut off the pic where it shows the LVB DCDC Current when the LVB showed 11.55 volts, I'd be interested to know if it was running at the time.

 

[RLXXI]

Do you know if I am responsible for paying that or is Ford?

8yr/100k miles warranty on the hvb and associated equipment, 5yr/60k miles roadside assistance came with my truck, I would of thought it'd be the same for all Lightnings.

It covers towing to a dealer. Click the link in the Ford app.

 

[RLXXI]

Almost forgot, any 12v SLA battery reading less than 12v and not under a load is a bad or severely depleted battery.

 

[chriserx]

Almost forgot, any 12v SLA battery reading less than 12v and not under a load is a bad or severely depleted battery.

That's why I was curious, to see if the DCDC converter was active at the 11.55 reading, even if so, and even with a strong draw that is extremely low.

 

[Intellibeam]

That's why I was curious, to see if the DCDC converter was active at the 11.55 reading, even if so, and even with a strong draw that is extremely low.

Here's a couple more pics I took with the "new" battery in and the truck in that blinking accessory only mode. End result, I took the battery back to Advance Auto Parts, they tested it and showed it was 12v and fine so something in the truck is making it tank. Calling Ford now and I expect to not have a truck forever. I'll update with the resolution when they tell me.

 

[chriserx]

Here's a couple more pics I took with the "new" battery in and the truck in that blinking accessory only mode. End result, I took the battery back to Advance Auto Parts, they tested it and showed it was 12v and fine so something in the truck is making it tank. Calling Ford now and I expect to not have a truck forever. I'll update with the resolution when they tell me.

looks so so for the draw, but turn off the seat heater, heated steering wheel and possibly the pro power, mostly for good measure, whatever you're looking for uses about 300w on the 12v circuit so in theory it should be relatively obvious. The SOC is low, I don't know how the truck calculates SOC for the 12v, but others suggest a reset which it seems you performed. Next I would charge it with an external charger. As far as battery testing goes, what was the old battery type? Lead acid and AGM are mostly accurate to testing. I've had one false positive in 25ish years. Lithium chemistry and possibly other chemistries don't test accurately with traditional battery testers.

Edit: Also put it in run to see if the DCDC is even attempting to charge the battery.

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